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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    251

    Question Gr-510 Door Sensor Inop.

    Hello everyone.
    I have a 2007 gantry router that the door switch has started to work opposite of what it should. Last week I had to replace one side sensor because the machine would not run unless I over rode setting 51. Now with the new switch in, the machine will run with a reduced spindle speed and if I break the "light curtain" or switch beam, The spindle speed goes to what it is programmed at. It should run normal as programmed and reduce the speed if the beam is broken!!! Is there a setting or parameter that I have overlooked to get this to run normal without turning setting 51 off all together?
    Please give me some insight or thoughts. Again, I only replaced 1 side and not both.
    Thanks,
    Just a good ol' boy, never meanin' no harm.
    Joe

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1852
    It sounds like you might have gotten the incorrect switch. There are two different types, "normally open" and "normally closed", or N/C and N/O.

    Depending on the configuration of the switch, it might be adjustable. If it has only two wires coming out then probably not. If it has three then you could. That is why most simple switches have three connections on them. One common and one for N/C and one for N/O.

    Mike
    Two Haas VF-2's, Haas HA5C, Haas HRT-9, Hardinge CHNC 1, Bother HS-300 Wire EDM, BobCAD V23, BobCAD V28

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    It sounds like you connected the new sensor backwards. I have never had the optical sensors from our GR510 off but I expect they work like most. A common line then two others one NO one NC and they change over when the sensor is activated. I know there are two leds on the sensor one red and one green and they light up depending on the state.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    579
    Do both beams work the same or does the other do nothing?


    If both work the same:
    Check parameter 315 bit 9. This should be 0 for normal operation. If you installed the wrong switch, you could use this to invert the signal.


    If the other does nothing:
    Fix the switch.
    Thanks,
    Ken Foulks

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    251

    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by Geof View Post
    It sounds like you connected the new sensor backwards. I have never had the optical sensors from our GR510 off but I expect they work like most. A common line then two others one NO one NC and they change over when the sensor is activated. I know there are two leds on the sensor one red and one green and they light up depending on the state.
    Hi Geof,
    The switch that I put on is identical to what was taken off. It is a sealed switch (with wire and connector)for plug & play. I ohmed the pins and it was the same as the old one. I will keep digging, but I think someone may have switched a setting or possibly a parameter without knowing what they were changing. Now, the headache gets pointed at the maintenance man....Me? LOL!!! Thanks to all for the inputs on this thread!! I will post what the fix is.... when I get there.
    Just a good ol' boy, never meanin' no harm.
    Joe

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1184
    Quote Originally Posted by JoBwan View Post
    Hi Geof,
    The switch that I put on is identical to what was taken off. It is a sealed switch (with wire and connector)for plug & play. I ohmed the pins and it was the same as the old one. I will keep digging, but I think someone may have switched a setting or possibly a parameter without knowing what they were changing. Now, the headache gets pointed at the maintenance man....Me? LOL!!! Thanks to all for the inputs on this thread!! I will post what the fix is.... when I get there.
    But did you verify normally open or normally closed? They can look identical but work differently.

    There are no settings that will affect the operation of the switches. You can look in alarm history and it should also record parameter changes. I still lean towards wrong switch though.

    Good luck!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    251
    Thanks Haastech.
    My question is.... Why would the HFO have a part # for a sealed switch and not know if its a N/O or N/C contact? Wouldn't there be a different part # for each? Anyhow, you are correct, it is opposite of what I need. I should have this resolved tomorrow.
    Thanks again everyone!!!!!
    Just a good ol' boy, never meanin' no harm.
    Joe

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1184
    Quote Originally Posted by JoBwan View Post
    Thanks Haastech.
    My question is.... Why would the HFO have a part # for a sealed switch and not know if its a N/O or N/C contact? Wouldn't there be a different part # for each? Anyhow, you are correct, it is opposite of what I need. I should have this resolved tomorrow.
    Thanks again everyone!!!!!
    Yes, each type of switch will have its own part number. Why the HFO didn't know what they sent you? I can only speculate that they didn't research what you had properly.

    Anyhow, glad you got it figured out and will be up and running soon.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    251
    Thanks Guys,
    Chaqnged both switches and running good.
    Just a good ol' boy, never meanin' no harm.
    Joe

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