[MBG]

I found this old bridgeport and it is like greenish color. Is there anyway I could paint it to the new color they have now? If so how?

[mxtras]

Well - depends on your desired level of perfection. Some folks don't care what things look like, while others (like me) are quite anal about appearance.

Where do you fit in? Are you planning on disassembling the mill, or are you going to just paint it assembled to change the color?

Scott

[MBG]

I was thinking about purchasing it and doing a total overhaul so yes I would probably disassemble to the best on how I know how to do it...

[mxtras]

Once you have it torn down, organize everything and get your parts on order because it may be a week or three before you start going back together.

As far as the painting thing - just degrease everything and take the shine off the paint that is there before you paint it. Cleanliness is important to getting the paint to stick and to be durable. Scrub the surface with scotch brite and mineral spirits to remove grease and oil and to scuff the shine off the paint that is there. Remove all loose and flaking paint, then fill scratches and gouges with 'bondo' or filler of you choice. Sand everything smooth, blow it all off to remove dust, mask areas you do not want to paint, wipe it down one final time with mineral spirits and a clean, lint free rag and then prime/paint it. You can use bomb can enamels (like Rustoleum) - stay away from the fast dry stuff - it is not durable and because it is fast dry it will make it difficult to spray a large part without getting the overspray haze. The stuff that takes 1-3 days to dry is a PITA, but it is a lot more durable and color-fast. Or you can use an epoxy - like an appliance epoxy. Just make sure you let your primer dry completely before using the epoxies.

Oh - and don't think piling the paint on will make it last longer - thick coatings chip and peel easier than a thinner layer. Just spray enough to make it the right color and shine - if that's the goal. One medium "tack" coat and then a final coat is all that is needed. Light colors are picky, so use a light colored primer and make sure the entir part is the same before you apply the finish color (use white primer if you are painting the machine whit, grey or black primer if you are painting it a dark color).

Did this help? I was being very brief......

Scott

[MBG]

thanks a lot. i wnat to be able to restore it. I never took one apart is it hard? I mean I have tightened gibs on the machine and simple stuff like that but nothing like taking it completey apart.

do you have pictures of your disassembly?

[MBG]

I am thinking about getting something like this

http://cgi.ebay.com/BRIDGEPORT-9-X-4...QQcmdZViewItem

hope the price stays taht cheap..

[kevingambrell]

If you buy that one dont tear it down just use it its a good looking machine. Strange Bridgeports always remind me of my first wife, solid, tough, tall yet strangly beautiful.
(guess il not be posting on this one again) LOL

But on seriouse not i did a full restoration on a Van Norman a few years ago the best advice I could give is dont spray it brush paint it. build the layers of paint up rubbing down between coats till all the previouse brush marks have gone. i put 23 coats on the VN.
using enamel paint from home depot. $3.00 a tin and some good primer. Buy decent brushes not loose bristle crap and wash the brush half dozen times before you use it and very well between coats. Dont just drop the brush in a cat food can of white spirits.

Good luck its worth doing I enjoyed the VN a lot.

Kevin

[mxtras]

Sorry for the delay - was not able to get to the PC work last night.

Disassembly - I have a ton of photos of my machine before and during rebuild but they were pre-digital-camera-ownership. They are on 35MM film and I have not even developed them yet.

As far as difficulty - not bad if you have average or slightly above average mechanical ability and knowledge. The most difficult thing is managing the heavy parts such as the knee. But - if your machine is purchased in reasonable condition then you may just want to fluff it up a bit and put it to use.

Keep us up to date.

Scott

[creep_pea]

Would you recommend any specific paint, would like one that won’t peel off when using coolant. You mention using appliance paint, do you mean like paint for fridges etc, also what’s best epoxy or enamel?

Can you get proper like machine paint or is this expensive and not worth the money.

I’m going to need some undercoat too as its down to bare metal in places, any recommendations

Cheers

Chris

[swarfmacdaddy]

mxtras was right, dont brush it, spray it with the initial coats thin. If you strip it down to the primer then pre prime with metal oxide primer. Build up the primer base and sand between coats. Clean dust real well between coats. Dont use a tack rag as they have wax in them. Use a very lightly dampened cloth with thinner.(low VOC)

[kevingambrell]

Nine times out of ten people wont brush paint for the simple reason they dont know how to. Brush painting using a good enamel paint should give a brush mark free smooth durable finish that will last many years more than a spray finish.
Brush marks and runs are a product of too much over brushing and too much paint on the brush.
As you brush out the paint look for the wet edge from the last run and work with it, keep all your brush strokes in the same direction and from the same angle. Only load the first 1/3rd of the brush with paint.
I brush painted my Colchester bantam 800, almost 15 years ago the paints still going strong even in the oily dingy parts. the paint I used came from Woolworths and cost less than a can of car spray paint.
I dont like tack rags I always use Mutton cloth thats been washed a couple of times. All your after doing is removing dust and muck.


Kevin

[mxtras]

MBG -

I guess you didn't buy a used machine? Did you get new stuff, or?

Scott

[v488]

I like this conversation. I have a Bridgeport that i'm currently repainting. The funny thing is it really did NOT need it! This is what i found to work on my project. The factory " fill paint " that is used to cover the rough castings is nice but, when it gets chipped up and oil gets under it theres no stopping it. You can have a loose section of factory paint that has not fell of yet but is not bonded to the casting. When you paint over this area your only painting over paint thats not bonded itself. The factory paint will pick off easy OR be on like concrete. Well after hours of lite hammer & chisseling i had an idea! The easly solutions can be hard to think up sometimes. Heres the secret weapon, a NEEDLE SCALER thats used for removing welding slag! Run one of them over the surface and the fill paint will FLY OFF! These tools can be lots of money to buy but NORTHERN TOOL has them for $39.95. Next i wanted to smooth out the factory castings so i went over it with a 4-1/2" disk grinder to level the castings. Than i went over everything with a belt sander. You'll need to use the most course belt you can find, like a 36 grit. So by now you have lots of work invested in the mill so why would you want to put on a cheap paint? What i did was spray PPG Epoxy sealer primer 1st. Than a few coats of PPG surfacer primer that got sanded smooth. Next i top coated it with PPG one stage Charcole Matalic. I'm not a pro painter but it turned out great. The paint is urathan and its TOUGH! You can brush this paint on with good resaults. Don't let anyone give you a hard time about brushing automotive paint on becaulse it works good. I'm only saying this if you don't have a spray gun or experince spraying. I did spray mine. Its not totally done yet becaulse other projects keep getting in the way. I could post some pics but i'm not shure where to put them on this site. On the down side all this time i could be making parts but i'm painting a mill! If i had to do it again i would NOT! CNC Zone is the BEST! Good luck!