I had a similar problem. I determined it was noise on the limit lines caused by the pulsing of the stepper wires. Try putting a 0.0uf cap across the limit lines and also increase the debounce in Mach3.
Thunterman
I had a similar problem. I determined it was noise on the limit lines caused by the pulsing of the stepper wires. Try putting a 0.0uf cap across the limit lines and also increase the debounce in Mach3.
Thunterman
Uhh.. I studied Electronics, but i can't say I have ever seen an 0.0uf cap before.. did you mean 0.01uf, by chance?
:stickpoke
Eddie
(Boy, I sure wish this board has built in spell checking for my fingers.. LOL)
Originally Posted by thunterman
Thanks for the responses guys, the noise problem is very likely because I shifted some wires and they are now probably causing interference on the switch lines.
The noise may not be from the motor wires as I have them encapsulated in split cable.
The router power line is a likely culprit it was always fairly close to the switch and motor wires but never caused a problem. Its an aging router and I am not sure how reliable the insulation is on the power line.
I will implement your solutions and report back.
Jason
Oops! 0.0uf would be a very tiny (invisible) cap! Yes, it should be a 0.01uf cap. Spell checker wouldn't of caught that one!Uhh.. I studied Electronics, but i can't say I have ever seen an 0.0uf cap before.. did you mean 0.01uf, by chance?
Problem solved!
I increased the debounce to 2000 and further insulated the router power cable from the other wires.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Jason
I cut this design in the cupboard door with my JGRO in 21 min 1016mm/min (40" min). Its 320mm (12.6") wide by 396mm (15.6") wide.
Jason
you did a beautiful job. i like it did y
ou have a pattern for the design?
That looks great Jason.
Thanks Dar and CNCRob for the kind words.
Yes Dar I had a pattern for the design. I combined two dingbat designs, saved them as a dxf which was then imported into Vcarve Wizard edited and the toolpath created.
I cannot say enough about Vcarve wizard, its easy and gives amazing results.
I was trying to find the combined DXF files in order to post it in this message but it seems to be hiding. When I locate it, I will post it immediately
Jason
I had to recreate the dxf file as the original was a combination of two files through importing. This file can be imported into Vcarve Wizard and centered in the material to get everything all lined up. The corner designs may have to be moved around a little in order to get their spacing just right.
The corner designs may be aligned by centering a square in the material and touching the outer edges to the sides of the square.
Jason
All the people I showed the door to loved it, some wanted a design in the middle of the circular design, I personally think its a little too much. Here is the preview from Vcarve.
Jason
very nice, the cut looks good
Thanks Joe, There are some Celtic designs I am taking a crack at next.
Jason
These signs were cut with my JGRO, 24 of each in conjunction with the VCarve software. You just cannot go wrong with the VCarve software.
The bit is a Whiteside 5/32 solid carbide upcut and after cutting 400 feet of mdf is still very sharp.
This job paid for all my previous expenses associated with my machine which includes the machine, mach software, VCarve software and Hobbycnc electronics.
Jason
Jason/Joe, thanks for posting your g-code.
Nice work Jason.
Jason, what torque of motors are you using?Originally Posted by Jason Marsha
To be honest I am not sure of the strength of those motors as I took them from a canon copier and there is no info on them. I am estimating that they are in the the region of 50-70 oz/inches torque. I have since aquired some stronger steppers from toshiba copiers and will swap to improve performance.
Jason
Well guys I finally got a constant response circuitry router from Bosch to replace my DW610 which burned up after bearing failure.
After the initial batch of 48 signs I should have a further 48 to start for the newly constructed buildings.
I had the strange experience of a new v-bit of identical model number burning MDF while the older duller bit gave a much cleaner cut. On inspection of the bit I realized the carbide on the newer bit was thicker and had slightly less clearance between the edge of the carbide and the body of the bit and this may have trapped debris between them and caused the burning.
I will experiment with speed and see what happens
Jason
I cut this circuit board with my JGRO at 1016mm/min with a 0.8mm end mill however I think a 0.5mm end mill would be a better option. The end mill is from think & tinker.
Jason
Verrrry nice!!! Is that for a new driver board or some other circuit? It'll kill us if you don't tell us.Originally Posted by Jason Marsha
If those drilled/milled holes are as big as they look I would second the smaller end mill. Is it me, the picture angle, the picture distance, the end mill size or some combination of the above that makes the through holes look oversize?
Have you tried an engraving bit? Has anyone purchased/tried one of these cheapo 70 BIT SET FOR SHERLINE CNC SMALL MILL carbide USA??? Are they overpriced at $21.99 + $6.99 S&H?
Thanks for the inspirational picture,
HayTay
HayTay
Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!
Thanks Harry
Its the Banshee chopper driver board from JCKleinbauer. It is the angle that gives the impression of the holes being oversized, but it won't hurt to try the 0.5mm end mill when I get it. Thanks for the link, I will have to ask the same question of price to someone who purchased already.
I tried to get a pic from directly overhead but none of them came out like the two I posted before.
Jason