has any one done any broaching, I want to broach a coupling for a small shaft that is about 3/8 in diameter with 4 slots inside. where can i get one or how can you DIY this item. any help would be welcomed.
has any one done any broaching, I want to broach a coupling for a small shaft that is about 3/8 in diameter with 4 slots inside. where can i get one or how can you DIY this item. any help would be welcomed.
You can use a broaching file. They come in a wide variety of widths, shapes, sizes and styles. You broach a small amount with each stroke. Making a guide bushing helps, but you can do it freehand.
Here is what im trying to do, and from your reply I can do it if i knew where to order the broaching file, I have a leg from an out board I think a 5HP. The engine is shot but the leg is ok. it has a splined shaft that has 4 splines on it I havent measured the splines yet. but i can. I want to broach a collar for this shaft, and connect it to a 5 HP vertical engine. for a 4-cycle out board. let me know where to order the broaching files from. thanks so much for your reply
or you can find a local shop (or even ups/fed ex it) that does broaching and have it done relatively cheap and accurate.
Ok. I was being a smart ass. "Broaching files" are files. In a pinch you sit down in front of the TV, and start filing. Believe it or not, you can (I have) file notches to make a drive coupler.
Though it seems odd that you have 4 splines, it's actually a benefit for a DIY project. You just have to think outside the coupler.
Take some round barstock, drill a hole equalling the minor dia of the shaft. Cut the chunk off to length, then cut it in half down the middle.
Put the halves in a vise in the mill, and with the appropriate dia endmill cut the grooves for the splines in the halves.
Make another solid round sleeve with an I.D. equal to the O.D. of the now cut in half splined piece. Put the halves together in place around the shafts and slide the whole outer sleeve over the halves, and lock in place with set screws in the outer sleeve, duct tape, hose clamps, or whatever clever method seems like a good idea at the time.
--------------Or...get fancy and make the inner coupling longer than the outer, and machine a snap ring groove in each end...make the outer just long enough to fit snug in between the snap rings. (and a relief groove on the outside of the outer so you can get the snap ring pliers into the holes!...something 1st year engineering graduates would NEVER dream of..because they've NEVER actually had to work on something they've designed)
Don't have a milling machine? ..... files.
..........another method using a broach.... use a conventional keyway broach, and index it 4 time to get your spline. ... assuming the broach is the right width and depth.
Lastly, a method that I've used very often for oddball applications....
Grind a drill blank to give you a single edge, flat and straight cutter that mounts in a toolholder in the mill. Lock down the spindle to keep it from rotating, and take a gentle plunge cut....index the table over a few thousandths, take a cut, index over, take a cut...repeat ....
Index the part 90deg, repeat. repeat, repeat. Till your arm's sore.
With a CNC and a rotary table this is an easy program. Manually, it's a PITA.
Either way, the end result is very good.
(I'm not going to draw up what the cutter should look like, you're left to your imagination....but it should come easy)
I can already see you guys are the best of the best at poorboying a project,and my hat is off to you guys. im going to try that It might take me a while to get around to it but you have given me some very good ideas. thank you so much and it is very helpful.
That's an excellent idea! Thanks!!!
CAD, CAM, Scanning, Modelling, Machining and more. http://www.mcpii.com/3dservices.html
Why couldn't you reuse the original motor to drive shaft connector and rework it to fit the new motor? That way you would have the right fit on the splines and it could be pressed and welded into a flange to fit the new motor.
That is an option that im kicking around now I was out there the other day and that did cross my mind. Even if i had to have it welded up it would be a lot quicker and cheaper. and im all for cheap if it gets results. thanks for the reminder.
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In the past I have done this on a lathe using a HSS tool bit.
Brian
www.eBolt.co.uk
www.jacobschuck.co.uk
Is this a candidate for rotary broaching?
I have my replys to all my questions sent to my e-mail thru cnczones setup when i signed up for this website. I got a reply that said there was a reply to my question about brouching and it was posted in cnczone, The person that replyed goes by "TsworthYhris" the reply had part of my answer then a bunch of websites to Amazon.com. the e-mail header shows it came from cnczone, how they did it i dont know. so im going to deleate all e-mails from cnczone in the future. and just read the replys when i get back on the web site till this is cleared up. Signed Helpmeout
What happened is that the spammer posted to a thread that you are subscribed to i.e. this one and you got a notification of the post. Between that time and the time you came here to read the post, someone clicked on the warning icon in the post header and reported it. The administrators are pretty fast at removing spam posts once they know about it and the post was deleted by the time you got here.
bob
i use these razorform broaching tools, here's a vid of them in action
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rd7o5iKgdo]broaching keyway on cnc lathe with inserted broaching tool.mov - YouTube[/ame]