[Claytonc]

Man... I got ahead of myself when modifying (bypassing speed control) my Bosch 1617EVS router.... After which I plugged it in and... well... not good... it spun but also started sparking a lot... Now I've got the wires all off and stuff and I'm not 100% sure how it should all be wired...
I don't want to burn this thing up as I have just bought it! I've already voided my warrantee by opening it up so....

I'm wondering if anyone would be willing to post a picture of a modified Bosch 1617EVS with the speed controls bypassed...
I'm feeling pretty ignorant at the moment... Please help an old guy out.

[Al_The_Man]

If you can wade through the posts, I think it is in here.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...ter_speed.html
Al.

[Claytonc]

I have the drawing that is supplied... Now that I have all the wires off of it Im not sure how they where... I know... really stupid but thats where i'm at...

[freecncplans]

Can't help with bypassing the speed control. Looks like the wires beside the brushes aren't hooked up?

Sean

[Claytonc]

Can't help with bypassing the speed control. Looks like the wires beside the brushes aren't hooked up?

Sean

LOL! There not. Like I said, things didn't go well so I have everything off at the moment.

I just finished going threw all 39 pages of that link Al The Man posted and not one picture of a properly modified 1617 in any of them... A picture is worth a 1000 words.. Seems so much easier than trying to explain where they go and what to cut.
I plugged them into where you might "think" they would go (One on each side) but that didn't get it...

[ssutton]

You need to get in touch with louieatienza. He has a 1617 with a super PID. I have a 1617 but at this point my performance has been so good with the on-board load compensating speed control that I have not had a justification to go with a super PID.

Scott

[Al_The_Man]

If you want to hook it up with the speed control bypassed follow the black into the switch out of the switch to the field the other side of the field will be to the armature brush out of the other brush to the other side field, out of the field to the other power input, follow the red line to the white the speed control is snipped out shown by the red slashes.
The white at the top is removed or cut.
Al.

[Claytonc]

Thanks man. I'll send him a PM in a minute. Since I've already purchased my SuperPID I really need to get this right. I'm rebuilding the whole top end of my machine and want to do it right. Can't believe I can't follow the simple directions...

[Claytonc]

If you want to hook it up with the speed control bypassed follow the black into the switch out of the switch to the field the other side of the field will be to the armature brush out of the other brush to the other side field, out of the field to the other power input, follow the red line to the white the speed control is snipped out shown by the red slashes.
The white at the top is removed or cut.
Al.

There are two connections on each side. Which ones should the white and blacks go to?

[louieatienza]

There are two connections on each side. Which ones should the white and blacks go to?

Clayton, just got your PM. It was really simple, though I cannot go to my machine right now. I took pictures of when I did it, but can't find it; though I believe I posted them in the SuperPID thread. IIRC there were three wires coming out of the speed control, two going to one coil and one going to the other. You would disconnect all of them. Then you'd take the black lead from the power cord and attach it to the coil that had one wire (I believe it was the coil right under the speed control), and connect the white lead to the rightmost connector of the coil with the two connectors, and that should be it. I'll confirm this tomorrow night when I go into the shop.

[Claytonc]

Clayton, just got your PM. It was really simple, though I cannot go to my machine right now. I took pictures of when I did it, but can't find it; though I believe I posted them in the SuperPID thread. IIRC there were three wires coming out of the speed control, two going to one coil and one going to the other. You would disconnect all of them. Then you'd take the black lead from the power cord and attach it to the coil that had one wire (I believe it was the coil right under the speed control), and connect the white lead to the rightmost connector of the coil with the two connectors, and that should be it. I'll confirm this tomorrow night when I go into the shop.

I did exactly that and I got sparks... scared the bejesus out of me! I will wait for your confirmation. Would it be possible for you (or anyone) to open my picture in paint or something and draw some lines where the wires should be? That would be worth 1000 words to me

BTW, I went threw every page of that thread and didn't see a modified 1617. There where pictures of a 1617 but not after the modifications.

[RomanLini]

What Louie said sounds correct, the large white wire from the power cord goes to the bottom connector (in your photo, the left spade terminal on the bottom white connector, the very bottom-most connector in your photo).

The black wire coming from the power cord goes through the switch, and to the motor in the place where it originally connected, so there is nothing to change there.

You should also be aware that without the speed controller the motor will make a very harsh "kick" (possibly with a spark) when you connect the power, really if you have disconnected the internal speed control you should have a soft-start controller (like a SuperPID etc).

I have attached a photo of the original wire setup for the Bosch 1617 router, if that helps.

[Claytonc]

I found this picture and it says it all. I wired it as like this and its running well. SHEW! Really thought I might have fried something....(chair)
All is well.. And thank you for your help
Now, when the heck is my superPID going to get here! Ordered it a while ago...

[louieatienza]

Here's a pic I just took, confirming what I mentioned. Note that I also disconnected the switch, since it was bad anyway and I can start the router from the SuperPID switch, but the only difference is that the lead from the switch would go where the black wire is. The switch would be where the SuperPID sensor is now, and the speed control would be on top. I'm sure you could find some good uses for the router speed control!

[Claytonc]

Here's a pic I just took, confirming what I mentioned. Note that I also disconnected the switch, since it was bad anyway and I can start the router from the SuperPID switch, but the only difference is that the lead from the switch would go where the black wire is. The switch would be where the SuperPID sensor is now, and the speed control would be on top. I'm sure you could find some good uses for the router speed control!

I agree and might bypass it as well.
I see you have your superPID sensor mounted in the side. Was that very hard to do? I'm going to have to make the same modification. Did you just just a small brush to put the paint on the shaft or did you take it completely apart?

And to everyone here, Thank you all! I love this site! Being a novice it's a great resource to have.

[louieatienza]

I agree and might bypass it as well.
I see you have your superPID sensor mounted in the side. Was that very hard to do? I'm going to have to make the same modification. Did you just just a small brush to put the paint on the shaft or did you take it completely apart?

And to everyone here, Thank you all! I love this site! Being a novice it's a great resource to have.

There are two screws that hold that housing down, which has the top bearing as well. I just used an artist's brush and matte white lacquer to paint the shaft, after cleaning it with lacquer thinner on a q-tip. You want to paint below the bearing, and then drill the hole below the bearing. I just put some all-purpose glue to keep it there once I had the right distance.

[Claytonc]

There are two screws that hold that housing down, which has the top bearing as well. I just used an artist's brush and matte white lacquer to paint the shaft, after cleaning it with lacquer thinner on a q-tip. You want to paint below the bearing, and then drill the hole below the bearing. I just put some all-purpose glue to keep it there once I had the right distance.

Thank you,
I'm hoping that I get my SuperPID today. I'm putting the new router along with the SuperPID on the existing machine so I can cut the aluminum for the rebuild.
I cant wait to get started!

[RomanLini]

I'm glad to see you got the wires connected right Claytonc!

[Claytonc]

HAHA! Me too.. Well, I've went ahead and took the other plastic housing off of the router so I can install the SuperPID sensor when it arives. Can anyone tell me the exact drill bit size I need for the sensor to fit snug?

[RomanLini]

Probably about 5mm for snug, but you might be best going a bit larger (5.5mm? 7/32) for ease of fitment and reduce risk of damaging the sensor if the hole is too tight.

Then use some silicone to secure it properly once it is adjusted and tested.