[Zipdrive]

I wanted to finish some parts and get them anodized. I scotch brighted the parts (green 00 steel wool equilivant) and 'thought' that I had done enough prep work. I was then told that I need to polish the parts. Do I really have to polish them for a decient finish?!? How can I quickly polish parts with out taking 20 hours on the buffing mahine with three or four grades of compound and wheels.

cheers.

[HuFlungDung]

Anodizing does not hide any blemishes, so whatever care you take with surface prep before you send the stuff out, will show afterwards.

The main thing is to be sure to not use contaminated abrasive pads: you don't want particles of steel (or any other metal, I suppose) embedded in the surface.

The grain of your polish is what counts most, so you have to figure out ways to give a pleasing appearance. Personally, I wouldn't waste time giving a super lustre to the surface, because this makes the parts extremely delicate to handle and ship. It's better to have a coarser, uniform surface, than a highly polished, but slightly scuffed one.

[tool_man]

why send your parts out to anodize?I bought a kit from Caswell plating.Could have done it without a kit.The process is very simple.I would not worry about a high polish on the parts.When they are etched prior to anodizing,that high polish is gone anyway.I think Pavco makes a brightener that etches and shines the surface prior to anodizing but,from what I have seen,they won't sell just the brightener.If you decide to anodize your own parts,I would suggest buying a roll of titanium wire.I tried to use aluminum wire at first.Just when you get a tight electrical connection....the wire breaks.The titanium wire can be used over again many times.

[soundmotor]

I wanted to finish some parts and get them anodized. I scotch brighted the parts (green 00 steel wool equilivant) and 'thought' that I had done enough prep work. I was then told that I need to polish the parts. Do I really have to polish them for a decient finish?!? How can I quickly polish parts with out taking 20 hours on the buffing mahine with three or four grades of compound and wheels.

cheers.

That sounds odd to me. Do you want the surface finish to be better than your prep? If not, there should be not reason not to run it as you brung it.

[tool_man]

The advantages of polishing the aluminum depends a lot on the alloy.Some contain copper,silicone,zinc,magnesium,ect.these elements have to be stripped away to expose the aluminum.This is done by etching.If the alloy is 6061...polish to a mirror finish..degrease and rinse very well...then go right to the anodizing tank as quickly as possible.Also bear in mind that the anodising grows at right angles to the surface.You should round off any sharp edges.What type of anodising are you looking for?Type-2(color anodising)....or type 3(hard anodising.Type 2 can be dyed any color you wish.Type 2 will be dark grey to almost black and cannot be dyed.