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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Haas Machines > Haas Lathes > SL20 Turret Alignment Procedure
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    15

    SL20 Turret Alignment Procedure

    Does anyone have the procedure to align the turret in X? It is off by enough to where I can't drill any parts without snapping the tooling.

    Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    4519
    You can adjust the X offset for those tools away from zero the amount needed. Or you can realign the machine base and headstock. Depends on how bad it is and how bad you want it to be right. Many people go for trying to change the physical alignment of the turret without checking the machine base and headstock alignment.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    17
    Hello Vulcan,

    You said that you only need to align the turret in X. This sounds as though the turret is neither mechanically too high or too low; it is simply not positioning correctly for your drills.

    This is adjusted with parameter 254. Parameter 254 also has an effect on the tool setting probe, so this will need to be calibrated also. I have procedures for adjusting parameter 254 and calibrating the probe. Please contact me. I believe I can help.

    Any sort of mechanical alignment with the turret is very involved. Hopefully, this is not needed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    5

    Alignable tooling

    spindlecentric.com sells a nice alignable ER16 collet chuck.

    Even when I get my turret and id tool blocks aligned the alignment of my drills, taps, and reamers are disappointing.

    I've worked on a new Haas ST20 for the last couple of years. Nice machine turret and tool blocks came very well aligned from the factory and remain that way, even after a few small crashes, very sturdy machine.

    I've used a variety of tooling for holding center working tools like center drills, drills, reamers, and taps. It's a crap shoot, sometimes my tools are within a .002 T.I.R. and often they are off by .010 T.I.R.

    I like the idea of having my center working tools in perfect alignmnet with the lathes rotational axis. spindlecentric.com allows adjustment.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    239
    To check dovetail tram for straightness:
    1. Jog X axis in the plus direction as far as it will
    go.
    2. Mount indicator base to the bottom of the turret
    as shown.
    3. Place indicator needle on casting at left side right
    below the dovetail bed.
    4. Slowly Jog X axis down to the bottom of the
    dovetail while observing the indicator.
    5. You should have no more than + or - .001”
    Maximum in 4.5 inch move.
    6. If out of spec the dovetail probably has moved
    and the dovetail pin(s) are broken or bent. Refer to replacement procedures.

    In details :
    1CHECKING DEVIATION OF A BORING-BAR HOLDERAfter a crash, several items should be checked and noted. These are:
    1. Headstock alignment (parallelism of the spindle centerline with the Z axis). This is done either with a test bar mounted to the spindle or more typically by cutting a part and checking the part for taper. If correction is necessary, align the headstock before performing the turret alignment. We prefer to use a part at least 1 inch in diameter (to avoid excessive part deflection) and at least 5 inches in length.
    2. Rotational alignment of the turret. This can be done using one of two methods:
    a) Parallelism of a turning tool pocket to the X axis movement.
    b)Centering the bore of a boring bar holder to the spindle rotational center in the X axis plane and looking for deviation in the Y axis plane. Mount an indicator to the chuck and rotate the chuck with the indicator stylus inside the boring bar holder. Be sure to note the machine position of the X axis when you have positioned the X axis so that the boring bar holder is centered on the spindle. We prefer this method because if the alignment is done using this check (as opposed to aligning the turning tool pocket with the X axis movement), you will end up with the tool tips centered better on the spindle. Facing will be better as well as drilling on center. It is best to hold the indicator in a piece that is clamped in the chuck, but often times this will not be available. It is possible to use an indicator and magnetic base to do this check, but the length of this setup should be kept to a minimum to reduce sagging and only a high quality base should be used.
    Also check the parallelism of the turret bottom with the Z axis movement. If the turret bottom edge is not parallel with the Z axis movement, this will need to be correct prior to rotational alignment of the turret.
    Write down the amount and direction of any deviations from “0”.
    In the case documented in this procedure, the headstock alignment and the Z axis parallelism of the turret were ok and no adjustment was necessary. However, the turret had been rotated by the impact and needed to be aligned.


    2Position the turret so that the boring bar holder (use the best, least beat up one you can find, preferably without impact marks or scoring, rust or dents in the bore) is centered on the spindle rotational center. Make a note of the machine position in the X axis. Note the amount of deviation from “0” in the Y axis plane. (See picture from previous step).


    3MARK AND REMOVE THE NUMBER PLATEMark and remove the number plate around the center hub of the turret by taking out the phillips screws.


    4REMOVE THE TURRET CENTER COVERMark then remove the (4) M8 cap screws in the turret center cover and remove the cover. You may need to tap the cover in the CW and CCW direction to get it loose enough to pull out. This will expose the turret center.

    5REMOVE THE TAPER-PINS WITH SLIDE-HAMMERRemove the (2) M8 taper pins in the turret. These are located 180 degrees from each other. They are 90 degrees from the “master” pin hole. This is the hole with the small counter-bore.


    6LOOSEN THE OUTER SCREWS (THESE ARE THE COUPLING SCREWS)Loosen the (12) 8mm cap screws on the outer bolt circle. These are the bolts that hold the turret-side of the curvic coupling in place. Retighten the screws slightly (a little more than finger tight) to prevent excessive turret movement.


    7STRIKING THE TURRET WHILE CHECKING WITH INDICATORWhile watching the indicator, strike the turret to rotate it in the needed direction (CW or CCW) with a soft hammer or a piece of sturdy wood. (See picture 6) As you do this, check and adjust the X axis position back to center after seeing any change in the Y axis direction as the centerline will keep changing as the turret is rotated. Continue this process until the indicator reads “0” all the way around the inside diameter of the boring bar holder.

    8AFTER ACHIEVING ALIGNMENT, TIGHTEN THE OUTER SCREWSTighten the (12) screws on the outside bolt circle in a cross pattern until all are fully tightened. We prefer at least 3 times around the pattern, tightening a little more each time.


    9CHECK ALIGNMENT AGAIN WITH THE INDICATORCheck your indicator again to make sure that the tightening of the screws did not move the turret. If you still have “0” all the way around the inside diameter of the boring bar holder, you can proceed. If not, loosen the screws and repeat from step 5. After achieving “0”, note the resulting machine position in the X axis. You will need to know this later to adjust the X axis grid-shift parameter (NC parameter 1850 for X axis).


    10REAM TAPER-PIN HOLES LIGHTLY WITH THE M8 TAPERED REAMERAfter all screws are tight and your indicator reading is “0”, you will need to lightly ream the taper pin holes to remove any burr caused by the pin when the turret was impacted.


    11Install new taper pins. Use only the correct size metric taper pin with a tapped hole for later removal. Put a screw into the tapped hole in the pin and lightly strike the screw with a small hammer to seat the pin.


    12Check the rotational alignment with the indicator one more time with the indicator to make sure the turret is still correctly aligned.

    regards
    [email protected]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1184
    Quote Originally Posted by yours_prabhat View Post
    To check dovetail tram for straightness:
    1. Jog X axis in the plus direction as far as it will
    go.
    2. Mount indicator base to the bottom of the turret
    as shown.
    3. Place indicator needle on casting at left side right
    below the dovetail bed.
    4. Slowly Jog X axis down to the bottom of the
    dovetail while observing the indicator.
    5. You should have no more than + or - .001”
    Maximum in 4.5 inch move.
    6. If out of spec the dovetail probably has moved
    and the dovetail pin(s) are broken or bent. Refer to replacement procedures.

    In details :
    1CHECKING DEVIATION OF A BORING-BAR HOLDERAfter a crash, several items should be checked and noted. These are:
    1. Headstock alignment (parallelism of the spindle centerline with the Z axis). This is done either with a test bar mounted to the spindle or more typically by cutting a part and checking the part for taper. If correction is necessary, align the headstock before performing the turret alignment. We prefer to use a part at least 1 inch in diameter (to avoid excessive part deflection) and at least 5 inches in length.
    2. Rotational alignment of the turret. This can be done using one of two methods:
    a) Parallelism of a turning tool pocket to the X axis movement.
    b)Centering the bore of a boring bar holder to the spindle rotational center in the X axis plane and looking for deviation in the Y axis plane. Mount an indicator to the chuck and rotate the chuck with the indicator stylus inside the boring bar holder. Be sure to note the machine position of the X axis when you have positioned the X axis so that the boring bar holder is centered on the spindle. We prefer this method because if the alignment is done using this check (as opposed to aligning the turning tool pocket with the X axis movement), you will end up with the tool tips centered better on the spindle. Facing will be better as well as drilling on center. It is best to hold the indicator in a piece that is clamped in the chuck, but often times this will not be available. It is possible to use an indicator and magnetic base to do this check, but the length of this setup should be kept to a minimum to reduce sagging and only a high quality base should be used.
    Also check the parallelism of the turret bottom with the Z axis movement. If the turret bottom edge is not parallel with the Z axis movement, this will need to be correct prior to rotational alignment of the turret.
    Write down the amount and direction of any deviations from “0”.
    In the case documented in this procedure, the headstock alignment and the Z axis parallelism of the turret were ok and no adjustment was necessary. However, the turret had been rotated by the impact and needed to be aligned.


    2Position the turret so that the boring bar holder (use the best, least beat up one you can find, preferably without impact marks or scoring, rust or dents in the bore) is centered on the spindle rotational center. Make a note of the machine position in the X axis. Note the amount of deviation from “0” in the Y axis plane. (See picture from previous step).


    3MARK AND REMOVE THE NUMBER PLATEMark and remove the number plate around the center hub of the turret by taking out the phillips screws.


    4REMOVE THE TURRET CENTER COVERMark then remove the (4) M8 cap screws in the turret center cover and remove the cover. You may need to tap the cover in the CW and CCW direction to get it loose enough to pull out. This will expose the turret center.

    5REMOVE THE TAPER-PINS WITH SLIDE-HAMMERRemove the (2) M8 taper pins in the turret. These are located 180 degrees from each other. They are 90 degrees from the “master” pin hole. This is the hole with the small counter-bore.


    6LOOSEN THE OUTER SCREWS (THESE ARE THE COUPLING SCREWS)Loosen the (12) 8mm cap screws on the outer bolt circle. These are the bolts that hold the turret-side of the curvic coupling in place. Retighten the screws slightly (a little more than finger tight) to prevent excessive turret movement.


    7STRIKING THE TURRET WHILE CHECKING WITH INDICATORWhile watching the indicator, strike the turret to rotate it in the needed direction (CW or CCW) with a soft hammer or a piece of sturdy wood. (See picture 6) As you do this, check and adjust the X axis position back to center after seeing any change in the Y axis direction as the centerline will keep changing as the turret is rotated. Continue this process until the indicator reads “0” all the way around the inside diameter of the boring bar holder.

    8AFTER ACHIEVING ALIGNMENT, TIGHTEN THE OUTER SCREWSTighten the (12) screws on the outside bolt circle in a cross pattern until all are fully tightened. We prefer at least 3 times around the pattern, tightening a little more each time.


    9CHECK ALIGNMENT AGAIN WITH THE INDICATORCheck your indicator again to make sure that the tightening of the screws did not move the turret. If you still have “0” all the way around the inside diameter of the boring bar holder, you can proceed. If not, loosen the screws and repeat from step 5. After achieving “0”, note the resulting machine position in the X axis. You will need to know this later to adjust the X axis grid-shift parameter (NC parameter 1850 for X axis).


    10REAM TAPER-PIN HOLES LIGHTLY WITH THE M8 TAPERED REAMERAfter all screws are tight and your indicator reading is “0”, you will need to lightly ream the taper pin holes to remove any burr caused by the pin when the turret was impacted.


    11Install new taper pins. Use only the correct size metric taper pin with a tapped hole for later removal. Put a screw into the tapped hole in the pin and lightly strike the screw with a small hammer to seat the pin.


    12Check the rotational alignment with the indicator one more time with the indicator to make sure the turret is still correctly aligned.

    regards
    [email protected]

    This is a nice procedure, but what brand of machine is this procedure for?

    Certainly not a Haas, because Haas machines do not use taper pins for aligning the turret.

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