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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    121

    Running a 2" face mill

    I have a 3 cutter 2" 45 degree Sandvik face mill. Previously I have used it with no problem, for example 3000 rpm, .1 DOC, full width, 30 ipm.

    Today I tried to pocket with it, and managed to stall it with very conservative parameters such as 2400rpm, 6ipm, full width .03 DOC. The problem is when the face mill is making a very shallow ramped entry into the material (.03" over 1 inch). I read the thread which says that the max torque is around 2200 rpm, so I dropped it down to that value. I guess because the face mill is hollow in the middle, when you do a ramped entry, all inserts are cutting all the time, so it's like double full width.

    One idea is to make the ramp even more shallow, like .5 degrees. The problem is that it's not easy for me to get Sprutcam to always make exactly the tool paths I want. I don't think it can do a custom form tool for Roughing Waterline, so I can't be sure it's not forgetting to machine out the area in the hollow section of the face mill.

    Assuming I can get toolpaths worked out, another idea was to just use the low speed pulley for more torque anyway. I don't need the huge SFM.

    I also have a 1" 90 degree insert mill, which doesn't have as much torque requirement. I still have the same concerns about the tool paths, though.

    I could just rough out the pocket using a 3/8 end mill too.

    Any other suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Do you need a ramped entry on this part? As in, is it a true pocket or can you approach from outside the material?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    121
    Internal pocket

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1602
    If you are running that slow, you should use the low range. The belt reduction will not only better than double the torque but the motor will be running faster and therefore will generate more power and power is what removes chips.

    bob

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    781
    In my opinion the 3/8 end mill would be a better tool for this job.
    A carbide 3/8 end mill will also very likely get you a high metal removal rate.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    I agree to use a smaller endmill to do the pocket first and then maybe a finish pass with the FM.
    I consider my face mill to be strictly a finishing tool.
    Lee

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    328
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeWay View Post
    I agree to use a smaller endmill to do the pocket first and then maybe a finish pass with the FM.
    I consider my face mill to be strictly a finishing tool.
    Why not go with a larger endmill like 1" or 3/4" or worst comes to worst a 1/2"?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Let your particular mill be your guide.
    Lee

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