[eaglezsoar]

Hey Carl,
You're right, the firmware has all the pinouts, etc. info.
You load the firmware in the Arduino program and it displays all the files associated with it, basically just text files of code like the snippet TimGS posted.
All you really edit is the "config" and "pins" files.
You change numbers in the basic config to what you want like steps/per, velocity, ramps board type, thermistor type, enable or disable things like endstops, heaters, fans and so on.
The pins file could already be setup if it's a newer version but it basically assigns the pin #'s
for the drivers, heaters, endstops etc kinda like setting the breakout board pins in mach 3
the arduino is basically the breakout board.
Once all is set like you want, you upload the firmware from your pc or laptop to the ramps via usb, takes a few seconds is all.
The gcode is made by a slicing program like slic3r i'm sure you know.
you run a host program like Pronterface, Repetier, RepliatorG which are like Mach 3's main page,
you use it to connect to the printer, jog axis, go home, turn heaters or extruder on/off
for setting up then load the gcode and tell it to print, pause, stop, or edit, etc.
The gcode is saved and run from the laptop like mach but you can add an sdcard to the ramps, load gcode on it, tell it to print and then be able to disconnect the pc if you want.
you can also make lcd modules that let you control the printer and print from the sdcard without a pc at all.
you'd still need a pc to use slic3r to make your gcode though, i just use my mini laptop
connected all the time so it has a purpose for me buying it.
Hoss

One thing left to clear the fog in my big skull, tiny brain.
The ramps system has the ability to use 5 motor drivers yet every
Prusa setup that I have seen only make use of 4 motor drivers and
parallel the 2 Z axis motors off of one driver. Do you know of any posted
work log etc where the 2nd Z motor is connected to the 5th driver and not paralled? I hope what I am asking makes sense, every time I try to
make sense out of something all I end up with is a few pennies.

[hoss2006]

The ramps board has 2 driver sockets for the Z axis to use the 2 motors in parallel and it works great so why do anything different.
The 5th axis is used for a second extruder typically.
Hoss

[eaglezsoar]

The ramps board has 2 driver sockets for the Z axis to use the 2 motors in parallel and it works great so why do anything different.
The 5th axis is used for a second extruder typically.
Hoss

Thanks for keeping your answer simple so that I could understand it.
I didn't think about a second extruder especially because it's hard to
get one to extrude. :-)

[eaglezsoar]

The ramps board has 2 driver sockets for the Z axis to use the 2 motors in parallel and it works great so why do anything different.
The 5th axis is used for a second extruder typically.
Hoss

May I ask what tablet pc you are using to drive the Prusa and is it XP?
I've been thinking about getiing one at Ebay and they have several at less
than $100.

[hoss2006]

I'm using a Dell Mini Inspiron 910 with XP.
Works great and runs all the programs needed.
Hoss

[BobWarfield]

I'm using a Dell Mini Inspiron 910 with XP.
Works great and runs all the programs needed.
Hoss

It's neat the little RAMPS board can run from USB--no need for parallel. Seems to have the equivalent of a Smoothstepper built in.

Cheers,

BW

[hoss2006]

Yeah and if only those little drivers could run some 570 n23's.
Hoss

[rpovey]

It's neat the little RAMPS board can run from USB--no need for parallel. Seems to have the equivalent of a Smoothstepper built in.

Cheers,

BW

A smoothstepper is a significantly better solution (though significantly more expensive), I think he uses an FPGA as a pulse generator, and I think there is an arm chip on the board as well.

The printer electronics are more a "good enough" solution. The arduino is the signal generator, it's somewhat limited in the maximum frequency it'll put out and because the pololu's require only momentary pulses the pulse widths generated by most of the firmwares are narrow enough to cause issues with the types of drivers generally used on larger machines.

[stephenrc]

The printer electronics are more a "good enough" solution. The arduino is the signal generator, it's somewhat limited in the maximum frequency it'll put out and because the pololu's require only momentary pulses the pulse widths generated by most of the firmwares are narrow enough to cause issues with the types of drivers generally used on larger machines.

Since the source code is available. All you need to do is to add in a short delay to widen the pulse. That is what someone did on the reprap forums to get the Teacup firmware to work with some cheap chinese drivers.

[rpovey]

Since the source code is available. All you need to do is to add in a short delay to widen the pulse. That is what someone did on the reprap forums to get the Teacup firmware to work with some cheap chinese drivers.

Yes absolutely you can do that.
My point was more that it's not the equivalent of a smooth stepper, which if anything is over engineered.

There are a number of things I'd want to fix in the firmware before I connected it to a mill. Incomplete G-Code support, poor E-Stop support, pulse widths etc etc.

If I were going to do this I'd start with a faster processor, say a BeagleBone or possibly a R-Pi, though the latter has something of an IO deficit. And I don't think it would end up much cheaper than a smooth stepper, though it might be interesting as a self contained controller.

[hoss2006]

Still printing now and again, working on some panels for my mill console
to hold meters and switches etc.
Hoss

[Starnovice]

Is that a rattle snake

[hoss2006]

No, pity I don't have any brown filament.
Hoss

[miljnor]

It looks like a pile of ****e! as in he's got so much on his desk he can't see straight!

[BAR553]

This has HOSS written all over it.

iStart.org - Participate in the The Desktop Factory Competition

[DrewSmith007]

I just got my prusa put together, and I'm trying to upload the sketch to the arduino. I'm trying to use marlin, but I don't know which file I'm supposed to use. Any help?

EDIT: Nevermind, found it. Poorly formatted wiki. It's Marlin.pde

[hoss2006]

Played with some glow in the dark ABS.
I got it from Protoparadigm but I noticed Repraper.com has green and blue Glow now.
Hoss

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qee1VjPjtIA"]Reprap Prusa Glow in the Dark Prints - YouTube[/ame]

[Starnovice]

Nice. Your camera picked it up pretty well in the dark.

[TimGS]

Hoss,
What do you use on the blue tape? I have been heating the bed to 60c and cleaning off the blue tape with alcohol to get the PLA to stick; but it sticks a little too well. Do you have any suggestions?

[hoss2006]

For PLA I just use 3M blue painters tape, for ABS I started wiping some ABS glue on the tape.
It's cheaper than kapton and easier to lay down on the glass.
Read here how to make ABS glue.
ABS Glue: Weld, Cast, Texture and More! | ProtoParadigm
Get acetone, nail polish remover has additives that keep the ABS from dissolving well.
The glue on glass alone was so-so, still pulled up.
Hoss