[k_yarina]

Sean, was that an official printrbot parts kit?

Printrbot's update #20 discusses the doublewide at Printrbot: Your First 3D Printer by Brook Drumm » Updates — Kickstarter .

As a backer I'm eagerly waiting for my singlewide PB+ .

Kirk

[Mad Welder]

"The force is strong with you my friend..."

you do know there Hoss and I mean it literally that you have within your hands the possibility to make a comfortable living and maybe more if you can find a niche in any market....merciful heavens people go on courses and get trained to operate machines...but nope you just get the thing put it together and then find flaws that even the manufacturers may have overlooked

[duzallcnc]

I dont think it was an official version, I ordered from the link that hoss posted earlier. The unit is printed not laser cut.

Sean

[fragger6662000]

Hi Hoss,

I received my printerbot today. It doesen't look like it will be expandable economically.
The problem lies in the Y axis. They drive it from one side of the table. There are motor mounts on both sides but now the electronics are getting expensive, 2 Zmotors, 2 Y motors, 1 X and 1 extruder, 6 axis. You could make a bracket to move the Y motor to the center but the frame is narrow and I imagine there will be binding in the Y axis due to the table overhang. Just an fyi to anyone contemplating a purchase.

Sean

I cannot see the problem with Y you can just extend the axis and increase the belt length. The real issue will be sage in the axis. especially with the motor mounter extruder rather than the remote feed type.

[LeeWay]

No that sounds interesting. A remote feed extruder. I presume it would feed through a tube of some kind after it is forced through the extruder? Interesting. Any info on one?

[fragger6662000]

Here is an example

Extruder drive assembly : eMAKERshop

They use either 6mm or 1/4 air line and push fittings

[rwskinner]

Looking for Hoss solutions / tips.....

Success with PLA - I've been playing with PLA and prints are turning out very nice although I have to tell it my filament is slightly larger than it really is to get the nice fills and sharp corners. Bridging is doing very good now as well. Solid Infills are actually solid and fairly slick. So moving on to ABS to play with.

I'm looking for tips on the items below:

Bed Leveling - Heated Bed with 0.065" glass on top, with blue tape.
I've been just coming down to Z Zero and adjusting my bed until a peice of paper barely drags under the nozzle and doing that on all four corners. I generally have to tell Slic3r to offset the Z by 0.12mm to get the correct amount of squash.

The problem is but I still have a hard time keeping it there. I start to see places not squashed enough and some places squashed to much. So after 1/2 a dozen prints I start getting a mess on the first layer. My tape appears to be in good shape but maybe I need to change it more often?

Have you have to adjust your bed much?



ABS - I only had a chance to try 1 print it and turned out to be a total mess because it didn't stick. Where I started was:

Nozzle Temp: 230c Bed Temp: 70c using Heated Bed with Scotch brand Blue tape. First Layer Ratio 1.2 - Any pointers?


Your right, very addicting.

Richard

[hoss2006]

No that sounds interesting. A remote feed extruder. I presume it would feed through a tube of some kind after it is forced through the extruder? Interesting. Any info on one?

I'm printing the parts for this dual head remote extruder, should be cool
and I already have the 2nd extruder parts and hotend that were going
on the printrbot.
2 Extruder Mod for Prusa Mendel by dob71 - Thingiverse
The printrbot already has a double and even quad sized design in the works
if you watch the video in the link Kirk provided.
Not much point in going down that road now.
Hoss

[LeeWay]

That dual extruder is very cool.
I think I will let them work some more on the software to control those. I do like the way the extruder is mounted though and will use that once I get going and can print some stuff. I had some issues with the stock Wade's extruder yesterday. I ordered the Greg's and I know that will fix my issues, but there are a few mods that can be done to the stock Wade's to make it more user friendly on the cheap. Pretty sure the main issue was several minor issues rolled into one.

Have you ordered your tubing yet? Are you going to use push in connectors? I have them in my Mcmaster cart already, but there are two types of teflon tubing. I want to make sure I get the right type.

[hoss2006]

Looking for Hoss solutions / tips.....

Success with PLA - I've been playing with PLA and prints are turning out very nice although I have to tell it my filament is slightly larger than it really is to get the nice fills and sharp corners. Bridging is doing very good now as well. Solid Infills are actually solid and fairly slick. So moving on to ABS to play with.

I'm looking for tips on the items below:

Bed Leveling - Heated Bed with 0.065" glass on top, with blue tape.
I've been just coming down to Z Zero and adjusting my bed until a peice of paper barely drags under the nozzle and doing that on all four corners. I generally have to tell Slic3r to offset the Z by 0.12mm to get the correct amount of squash.

The problem is but I still have a hard time keeping it there. I start to see places not squashed enough and some places squashed to much. So after 1/2 a dozen prints I start getting a mess on the first layer. My tape appears to be in good shape but maybe I need to change it more often?

Have you have to adjust your bed much?



ABS - I only had a chance to try 1 print it and turned out to be a total mess because it didn't stick. Where I started was:

Nozzle Temp: 230c Bed Temp: 70c using Heated Bed with Scotch brand Blue tape. First Layer Ratio 1.2 - Any pointers?


Your right, very addicting.

Richard

You're not too far off what I use but what works for me might not for the next guy.
I print @199, 75 for the bed, 1st layer 1.1, 1st layer speed .6.
The filament has a lot to do with it too I've found coming from different vendors.
The red went great, the black almost as good but this white sucks, seems
softer than the other ABS, had a few times where the hob just chewed a notch into it and stopped feeding.
It came from the same supplier as the red though. Glad I only got a pound.
I'll try some white from someone else, might've been some chinese junk ABS.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Made one of the bridge calibration cubes, 75mm/sec looks pretty good.
Skeinforge Bridge Calibration Cube by MatthewLaBerge - Thingiverse
Increased my bed temp to 90C and stopped some corner lifting trouble
I had with big flat pieces like the one shown.
Hoss

[rwskinner]

Looks like your building the RampsEnclosureV2. I just printed that a couple days ago. I tried a different one first but it was really paper thin and flemsy. The V2 seems pretty good.

Richard

[mhackney]

Hoss, are you driving those little steppers on your machine with 12V? Mine came in today and they are rated 6V at .8A. Plan to use these on my next machine.

cheers,
Michael

[hoss2006]

Hoss, are you driving those little steppers on your machine with 12V? Mine came in today and they are rated 6V at .8A. Plan to use these on my next machine.

cheers,
Michael

The ones I got on ebay are good to 90 volts using geckos inductance rule,
I'm running at 12v.
Hoss

[rwskinner]

Here is my test cube. Bridging needs a little more fine tuning.
I just started using the orange and I have to play with the temps a little because its a tad different then black.

Richard

[hoss2006]

Here is my test cube. Bridging needs a little more fine tuning.
I just started using the orange and I have to play with the temps a little because its a tad different then black.

Richard

Looks pretty close to perfect.

Played around with filament splicing on ABS.
Haven't made a fancy tool like this yet, Splicer MK2 for PLA filament by Malcolm - Thingiverse
I just lit the 2 ends up with a lighter and squeezed them together.
Trimmed off the excess and thru the extruder it went.
The splice will snap if you bend it sharply but in a curve like the spool
it held together just fine and the extruder pushed it right thru.
Now to make a good tool and save my short lengths for some rainbow parts.
Hoss

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsGsLG-XRR8&list=UUjoRKEpk7uE5Wzf4b-IFTFg&index=1&feature=plcp]Reprap Prusa Simple Filament Splicing - YouTube[/ame]

[Fastest1]

Hoss, I am tinkering with an MK6 head right now attempting to run a little 1.75mm blue ABS. What kind of feed rate are you running on the extruder? It seems I am running slow on the extruders feed but still get stripping of the filament. Temp at 245c just to see it squirt out. Very little and not a continuous feed. I am just testing the extruder and heater not the bed. I am using Mach

[hoss2006]

The feedrate I calibrated following this tutorial.
Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing: Slic3r is Nicer - Part 1 - Settings and Extruder Calibration
That's an awful high temp, I use 199C for low speed printing (35mm/sec) and 210C for fast (75mm/sec)
When the filament is in the extruder the hob should hold 12 lbs worth of pull (3mm filament)
I couldn't pull mine out by hand if I wanted to, they can hold a lot more.
Key is a good hob that grabs half of the filament diameter so it won't slip.
Hoss

[Fastest1]

Hoss, The MK6 I am using has the small bushing that is hobbed and set screwed to the stepper. It could be an alignment issue as I have seen others successful with it. These designs change and improve almost as fast as you can read the articles. Who knows what is not being documented. Not very many people document and share as quality information as you do. I am not impressed with the contact area on the filament. Though like everything else, most likely operator error. OTOH it has inspired an idea or 2 on extruder design. I thought of something simple yesterday that should work great. Time for some testing. If I am right clogging or stripping wont happen. Thanks again.

[hoss2006]

I haven't had a bit of trouble with the Wades extruder since I rehobbed the bolt and the J-head Mark IV hotend has been flawless.
I've read those stepstruders let a lot of heat transfer to the filament and the 1.75mm filament
is more prone to deforming.
Trick is to use a little fan to keep the filament as cool as possible till it hits the actual hotend.
The mark IV has cooling vents in it to allow a fan to keep it cooler for running PLA and there are several fan shroud designs on thingiverse for that.
I haven't had any trouble with it though and really don't use the fan.
That might change in the summer when it gets a little warmer in here.
Hoss