[mattm55]

Well, finally decided to jump into the pool and just ordered an SX3 from Grizzly (G0619). Now its time to start ordering up the CNC conversion parts and electronics.

Being a newbee... the info I've read in the forums should help this build go smooth, I hope...

Matt


Build Index:
1. Placeholder...

[cornbinder23]

Cool beans!
Nice to see another SX3 in the mix
Where you from?

JTCUSTOMS

[WOTDesigns]

Yay! new sieg build thread!

Subscribed

[mattm55]

Yes, thanks. More to follow as I get parts for the conversion. I'm also finishing up a Joes 4x4 R&P so things are pretty similar with electronics, controller, stepper motors, smoothstepper, etc...

My location is Upstate NY, about 20 mins from OCC in Newburgh if you are familiar with them.

Matt

[mattm55]

Over the weekend I dis-assembled the SX3 down to pieces. I did leave the motor/spindle together. I used CR's teardown instructions and ArcEurotrade guide to remove the table and saddle.

Images coming shortly to show progress.




I do have one dumb question though. I removed the quill (with spindle lock on) and wanted to just leave that assembly off on rebuild. I'm wondering if there is more to locking up the spindle other than the lock handle? Doesn't the quill keep it up and removing that allows the spindle to drop if the lock is loosened?

I also see my first projects are going to be quill cover blanks and a z-axis cover.

Thanks, Matt

[WOTDesigns]

afraid I don't follow you. I left my quill functional as it does come in handy occasionally for drilling holes that don't need programing, finding center of a hole with a starrett center finder, etc.

I did use the center finder yesterday without dropping the spindle, but it takes a lot of care not to put too much pressure on the tool in the hole.

Perhaps the sx3 is different from the x3, but I can't figure what you are wanting to leave off unless its the splined part that the handle and spring attach to.

[neilw20]

I love my quill. Wouldn't be without it.
Get near job. Move head down close to job.
Last bit of Z move with the quill to touch cutter on job.
Zero the DTI on mill, DRO z on Mach3. Lock quill.

If on hard material move the quill up a bit.

Move the head up. All done without a resetter, in 10-15 seconds.
Move quill back to zero on DTI.

Using other machines, without a quill setting Z zero is a pain.

[mattm55]

OK, I was thinking of removing the whole quill assembly to lighten the weight of the head for z-travel on stepper motor...

...but it may be more practical to leave quill on than to save weight.

Thanks.

[WOTDesigns]

not enough weight to matter IMO. I do cheat and use a counterweight though.

I used to do exactly what Neil described before getting enough TTS holders for all of my cutters. REALLY fast set up and accurate after a little practice (cutters will dig into aluminum more than steel, 2 flute more than 4 flute etc. I use .001" sim between the two and with 'zero' or type .001 into the z dro).

With TTS all programmed the only tools I usually have to set are drills. I set G59 as my tool height offset. I zero'd out the Z with my probe on a 4" Z height setter (on the table) from edge technology. In mach 3 I programmed the height gauge under "offsets" as half the thickness of my probe tip 'negative'. it sounds like a lot typing it, but in effect I load a program, look at what tools are in the program on screen 1. change work offset to 6, press 'go to zero' and I'm on the right edge of my table. load tool, set Z setter under it. bring tool down, change tool number to desired number, press "set too height IIRC" on offsets page. takes less than 20 seconds to do one tool and I never lose my G54 offsets, and I can load/unload that tool until I change drills.

Now I just need 20 more 1/4" and 3/8" TTS drill chucks...

[neilw20]

Am I cheating? I can even lock the quill in the correct position.
Top of column is attached to brick wall. Improved machine by factor of 20!!
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/shopma...tml#post810265

10 times more precise quill Z positioning with 1 micron resolution.


More stuff...
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...tml#post879537

[mattm55]

OK, while the parts are coming in I worked on the bench. It's a 60"x39" bench that I'll add a Quick-Frame enclosure when the mill is assembled. I included some images, cut list and crude layout design (helps me see what I'm building) for those interested, I followed some of the forum info to come up with something that should work, I hope.

On to re-assembling the mill on the bench...
Matt

================================================== =====
Table cut List:
12 ~ 2x4x8's
1. 57", 36" (Rect Box)
2. 57", 36" (Rect Box)
3. 57", 36" (Rect Box)
4. 57", 36" (Rect Box)
5. 54", 32" (Rect Box)
6. 54", 32" (Rect Box)
7. 54", 32" (Rect Box)
8. 54", 32" (Rect Box)
9. 33", 33", 29" (2 Mid-Supports, 1 Leg)
10. 33", 33", 29" (2 Mid-Supports, 1 Leg)
11. 29", 29", 22" (Legs)
12. 22", 22", 22" (Legs)

Angle Supports:
2 ~ 2x4x8's - Your lengths may vary here depending on angle

1 ~ 7/16"x4'x8' OSB for bottom shelf
1 ~ 3/4"x4'x8' BC Sanded Pine
1 ~ #118877 Sq. Grate w/ Liquid Nails
1 ~ 6' Oatley Shower Pan liner

~ Misc. Screws, L-Brackets, 5/16" Lags
4 ~ casters (Access Casters #2P80F)
4 ~ .250"x12"x12" Steel Plates (Metal Depot)
~ 3/8" staples for Shower Liner

[Geekus]

The bench looks really nice. It does not appear that there is much if any slope down to the drain though.

Are you going to raise the mill on a platform off the table a bit (asking because most of the benches I've seen do this and it gives a bit more clearance for working on things vs. having it sit right on the table). It would also keep the base out of the coolant and other mess collecting on the table.

[mattm55]

Thanks.

~Yes, it is hard to tell from the pics but I did add a pitch to back right to the drain and the drain itself is inset slightly lower than the top. I'll also make sure to pull the liner to remove those rolls that can be seen.

I have been thinking on 2 options for the platform and may go with the 2"x2" sq tube I have. Been trying to get them drilled but the stuff is real tough... eating thru some bits. Otherwise I will mount on some smaller flat stock. I want to bolt it down instead of using the included legs for more rigidity.

~My next step is to mock assembly so I can mount base and start building up. I need to leave some space for the QuickFrame in the back and allow for back cover maint. too. More pics to come....

Matt

[neilw20]

Just a hint. Make sure the drain hose has no discontinuities in it, such as the hose going on to a fitting on the coolant tank.

Hose need to go direct into the tank, so that swarf cannot catch on any edges and block the hose.:withstupi

Bad 1. Top bit overflows and makes a mess.:drowning:
Bad 2. The job runs dry and damages a cutter.:nono:
Bad 3. Complaints about stuff on the floor.(chair)

[mattm55]

Thanks for the tip. Yes, my wife has a stick just like that shown for #3... A nice solution would be a flow or lack of flow monitor to shut down/feed hold on system.

One question I had looking at wiring up the steppers is what is a good solution/source for cabling sleeving that is being used? I have the connectors but in searching here I didn't see what is being used for a neat wiring solution other than the obvious shrink and un-spliced plastic coverings.

Thanks, Matt

[mattm55]

Here is my work in progress so far.

I ordered from CNCFusion:
- Small-Mill Deluxe CNC kit with premium ballscrews
- (2) Heli-Cal Zero Backlash Couplings

*Also used info from CR's site to extend the X/Y Axis I instructed them to lengthen the ballscrews:
- extend "X" ( 1 5/8" ) / "Y" ( 1 1/4") screws (ref. CR's build)
- extra "Y" spacer 3/4" wide

TheCNCFusion kit came within 2 weeks of ordering. All the parts were well packed and all wrapped in pink plastic.

With my CNC already disassembled, I started test fitting the CNCFusion kit in the garage before I move it by pieces down to the basement shop. Here are some pics and maybe helpful assembly instructions for others thinking of using the CNCFusion kit on their mill.

1. I started by test fitting the Y-Axis stepper mount with a spacer (pic 1).

2. With the lengthened Y ballscrew, you'll need to cut the Z Axis dovetail. My measurement for clearance was ~1" from the base I needed to remove. I did mine with 2 cuts with a hacksaw (pic 2)

3. I also had to grind some of the base lip off where the washer would hit when the ballscrew was extended inwards as shown (pic 3a) (pic 3b)

[mattm55]

...test fitting the X-Axis

1. X-Axis parts laid out in this (pic 4). I used different size bolts for the right side plate (2 pcs ~ 6mm x 1.0 x 16mm) and assorted 5mm, 6mm washers and lock washers. Not shown is the (4 pcs) X-Axis gib screws and nuts.

2. (Pic 5) shows what I used for the X-Axis spacers. I used 1/8" pieces to be able to adjust the extended length. This will be replaced with a solid block once the mill is operational. (10 pcs ~ 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 6 3/8")

3. (Pic 6) shows the right side attachment plate being tightened. I ran the X-Axis to that side for adjustment.

4. (Pic 7) shows the left side stepper mount with extended spacers. Run the X-Axis to the left and then tighten down. I used (2 pcs) 6mm x 1.0 x 50mm bolts for attaching the plate and spacers.

[mattm55]

...test fitting the Y-Axis

1. Y-Axis parts laid out in this (pic 8).

2. (Pic 9) shows that I had to enlarge the Y-Axis stepper mount to fix the mis-alignment. Since I was using hex bolts now, this wasn't a problem.

3. (Pic 10) shows the Y-Axis spacer made from the extra 4 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 3/4" thick Y mount. This will also be replaced once mill is functional.

4. (Pic 11) shows the Y-Axis clearance using the spacer.

Now it's time to take apart and move downstairs to build on the table and 2" x 2" steel table mounts.

...more to follow...
Matt

[neilw20]

Have you thought of a cover tube over the end of the Y screw?
I used an old aluminum flashlight housing.
Nice and easy, sealed on one end. Nice color yellow
That end is prone to getting an accumulation of chips and dust, and at that end not much room for bellows.
I just have a rubber flap held by magnets.
Are you installing a lube system? Much easier now than later.
I decide against a spacer and often drill over the edge of the table.
Column stability is flexing where the base attaches and bends the base plate.
I attached the top column to a brick wall at the top with an adjustable rod.
This is the BEST improvement made to my machine.

[neilw20]

ISP hiccup. Duplicate post.