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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking > WoodWorking Topics > question on what bit to use
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    200

    question on what bit to use

    I joined the San Jose Techshop and they have a Shopbot. I have project that I want to vacuum form and so I plan on using the Shopbot to make the plug. I was told that I will need a Spiral downward ball nose Router Bit but I can’t find one. I posted the file in hope someone would be able to help tell me what type of bit I should use. I plan on using a rough pass and a final pass on carving it. I was thinking of using plywood for the plug.

    Thanks
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5516
    I really would rough this out with a straight bit, not a ballnose. It would take forever with a ballnose. You could however use the ballnose for the finish pass.

    Check onsrud.com for downcut spiral ballnose bits.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    35538
    I've never seen a downcut ballnose spiral bit. As Louie says, rough with a straight bit, and use a regular ballnose for the finish pass.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    200
    ok thanks - I'll post how it works out.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    292
    If you plan on cutting the plug all the way to the bottom, you will have to flip the plug over the cut the area under the vertical semi-circular area on one end.

    I agree, roughing with an endmill then finish with a standard ball end should work fine. Not sure what kind of plywood you are planning on using, but MDF might provide a better finish. Plywood can get a bit 'splintery'. If you rotate the drawing 90 degrees so it lays flat on the CNC table, a single layer of 3/4" MDF or similar material would be thick enough.

    Don

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    200
    Hmm I didn't look at the file when I exported it from Autocad inventor. but the plug will be 20"W X 24"L X 7"H - the flat part will be the bottom of the plug and the round end will be the area that's 20" across. I was thinking of plywood because it was sturdier then MDF. Also I have another part that will be connected to the end to make a down spout area that will be doweled so that it can be pulled apart after the forming so that the plug can come out easier.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    200
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    I've never seen a downcut ballnose spiral bit. As Louie says, rough with a straight bit, and use a regular ballnose for the finish pass.
    I was hoping you could link the bit you recommend

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    You'll probably have clearance issues with something 7" high, but something like these:
    Vortex Tool: Two Flute Upcut Ballnose Router Bits - Series 2200

    Vortex Tool: Tapered Ballnose Spirals - Series 2200

    I've never used either. I've never done anything that high, so I use 1/8" bits similar to the first that I get on Ebay.

    If you're just cutting MDF, you can also use a Core Box bit.
    Groove Forming - Round Nose Bits
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    200
    when you say MDF do you mean plywood or the fiber board?

    Thanks


    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    You'll probably have clearance issues with something 7" high, but something like these:
    Vortex Tool: Two Flute Upcut Ballnose Router Bits - Series 2200

    Vortex Tool: Tapered Ballnose Spirals - Series 2200

    I've never used either. I've never done anything that high, so I use 1/8" bits similar to the first that I get on Ebay.

    If you're just cutting MDF, you can also use a Core Box bit.
    Groove Forming - Round Nose Bits

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5516
    I would say if the school has a decent enough CAM, it should have the tool holder/spindle modeled, then you could simulate the g-code to see if you'll crash the tool/tool holder. I think the biggest problem will be to get that inside fillet at the semicircular portion at the end; I'd be inclined to make that a separate piece and glue it on afterwards. Provided the machine has enough Z clearance it would be tight, but you should be able to machine this with a relatively short bit, since ihe collet just has to clear that short side angle. Even less so if you pre-machine the block to the right size first.

    MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    200
    the school has Cut3d - Im still having some problems with setting up the XY for cutting

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    5516
    Quote Originally Posted by tekno View Post
    the school has Cut3d - Im still having some problems with setting up the XY for cutting
    I prefer to set x,y at material center, for stuff like this I think it's easiest.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    200
    thanks - I was wondering if I was going about it wrong.

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