[jpthorpe1041]

At work my boss has an sl-10 and we were trying to figure out if we can program the chuck to only open to a certain dia so we can use the bar puller without the part falling into the opening. Does anyone have any experience with this or any idea how to attempt doing this or if its even possible???

Thanks

James

[Machineit]

At work my boss has an sl-10 and we were trying to figure out if we can program the chuck to only open to a certain dia so we can use the bar puller without the part falling into the opening. Does anyone have any experience with this or any idea how to attempt doing this or if its even possible???

Thanks

James

Not possible I think. So, use soft jaws and machine with jaws open or only slightly closed, (on smaller bar maybe). May be tricky but you can do it.

Mike

[txcncman]

Give some more details, such as actual part diameter and length.

[philippritchard]

machine a metal ring to diameter that suits then slip it over the jaws and this will stop them opening to far.
Philip
what machine do you have

[Machineit]

machine a metal ring to diameter that suits then slip it over the jaws and this will stop them opening to far.
Philip
what machine do you have

So, what happens to this ring while the jaws are closed and turning at say 3000 RPM?

[txcncman]

So, what happens to this ring while the jaws are closed and turning at say 3000 RPM?

Do you remember that window removal we were discussing on another thread?

[gizmo_454]

Why not use Spindle Orientation? Just orient the spindle so that one of the 3 jaws is on the bottom? Then the bar cannot fall in between them. It is sitting on one. Assuming you are using jaws that were machined round for the bar and not using hard jaws. Even if you don't have the Spindle Orientation option turned on, you can still use it...sort of. The option allows you to orient to specific angles. Without it, you cannot choose the angle. It just goes to "0". Of course, this will only work if the chuck is bolted on in the right place for one of the jaws to be down at "0".

Good luck...

Mike :cheers:

[Geof]

Just position the jaws so that with the chuck fully open there is just enough clearance for the bar to slide. The jaw adjustment is about 1/16" so the maximum clearance you can around the bar is 1/16" or less, and this should be small enough that the bar cannot fall down between two jaws.

[littlerob]

Do you remember that window removal we were discussing on another thread?

This is the most amazing information I have ever seen.

You can't even post a link to the thread?? (chair) I get irritated by posts that have no actual information in them. Why even post?

Geof's knowledge/advice is exactly what I would use/do.

Robert

[littlerob]

But for your information the jaw serrations are 1.5 mm apart(.059") basically the same dimensions that are the jaw stroke, so pretty easy to figure out.

Robert

[txcncman]

This is the most amazing information I have ever seen.

You can't even post a link to the thread?? (chair) I get irritated by posts that have no actual information in them. Why even post?

Geof's knowledge/advice is exactly what I would use/do.

Robert

Does this help?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/haas_l...ty_window.html

[Machineit]

Just position the jaws so that with the chuck fully open there is just enough clearance for the bar to slide. The jaw adjustment is about 1/16" so the maximum clearance you can around the bar is 1/16" or less, and this should be small enough that the bar cannot fall down between two jaws.

In other words, but that is what I said.

[gizmo_454]

Just position the jaws so that with the chuck fully open there is just enough clearance for the bar to slide. The jaw adjustment is about 1/16" so the maximum clearance you can around the bar is 1/16" or less, and this should be small enough that the bar cannot fall down between two jaws.

I guess I am lost on this one. Yes, the serrations are about 1/16". But that means roughly 1/8" on the diameter. I know, I know... 1/16" clearance. Where I run into issues is with my soft jaws...

If I bore them to size, and them set them so that they clamp the bar, I end up with one extreme, or the other. Meaning, either they are too close together to hold the part, they are just right to hold the part, or too far apart to hold the part. I am self taught in this, (most CNC), aspect so please forgive my ignorance in this matter. I have tried to bore the jaws with the chuck clamped all the way open in ID mode and then move them out one notch. And I tried to bore them with the chuck clamped all the way closed in OD mode and then move them in one notch. Both have worked great for what I am needing to do. But in either case, I have the same issue. In moving them over the one notch, I get the correct clamping, right in the middle of the travel for the chuck.

That leads me back to the top. Where I bored them, the part is slip fit in the jaws. Meaning the chuck won't hold it there. If I move them over one notch, it's in the middle of the travel and works great. If I move them one step farther, now they are not open enough when the chuck is open for me to get the part in.

Maybe some of you 3-jaw chuck gurus can school me on this a little. We normally use collets. We only break out the chuck when it is absolutely necessary. And even then, I have a set of jaws I made up to take Warner&Swasey collet pads, so I am not experienced with this whole "chuck jaws" dilemma.

Mike:drowning:

[jpthorpe1041]

sounds like an easy solution I will def do that, also does it always take a while to switch out the collet holder for the chuck on these or is there a special trick to it????

[dcoupar]

At work my boss has an sl-10 and we were trying to figure out if we can program the chuck to only open to a certain dia so we can use the bar puller without the part falling into the opening. Does anyone have any experience with this or any idea how to attempt doing this or if its even possible???

Thanks

James

You could always use a spindle liner.

[jpthorpe1041]

whats a spindle liner??

[dcoupar]

whats a spindle liner??

This is one style. Some folks make them in house.

CNC Lathe Accessories Spindle Liners

[dcoupar]

whats a spindle liner??

Here's another source.

Spindle Liners, reduction tubes - Machine tool lathe accessories

An added advantage is reduced vibration at higher RPM's.

[Machineit]

I guess I am lost on this one. Yes, the serrations are about 1/16". But that means roughly 1/8" on the diameter. I know, I know... 1/16" clearance. Where I run into issues is with my soft jaws...

If I bore them to size, and them set them so that they clamp the bar, I end up with one extreme, or the other. Meaning, either they are too close together to hold the part, they are just right to hold the part, or too far apart to hold the part. I am self taught in this, (most CNC), aspect so please forgive my ignorance in this matter. I have tried to bore the jaws with the chuck clamped all the way open in ID mode and then move them out one notch. And I tried to bore them with the chuck clamped all the way closed in OD mode and then move them in one notch. Both have worked great for what I am needing to do. But in either case, I have the same issue. In moving them over the one notch, I get the correct clamping, right in the middle of the travel for the chuck.

That leads me back to the top. Where I bored them, the part is slip fit in the jaws. Meaning the chuck won't hold it there. If I move them over one notch, it's in the middle of the travel and works great. If I move them one step farther, now they are not open enough when the chuck is open for me to get the part in.

Maybe some of you 3-jaw chuck gurus can school me on this a little. We normally use collets. We only break out the chuck when it is absolutely necessary. And even then, I have a set of jaws I made up to take Warner&Swasey collet pads, so I am not experienced with this whole "chuck jaws" dilemma.

Mike:drowning:

While the same issue, it's a different question. Why don't we start with the machine ID and the part size.

Either way, I would caution against machining with the jaws open, as it does not mean they will be concentric on the part when closed.


Mike

[dcoupar]

At work my boss has an sl-10 and we were trying to figure out if we can program the chuck to only open to a certain dia so we can use the bar puller without the part falling into the opening. Does anyone have any experience with this or any idea how to attempt doing this or if its even possible???

Thanks

James

Yet another option would be a jaw boring fixture.

http://www.usshoptools.com/current_y...pdf/PGS_10.pdf