[gizmo_454]

We had some work done on our VF2SS about 3 months ago. While the tech was gone in the evening, we replaced the original gaskets on the coolant passages through the head that were leaking. As per our tech's advice, we used cork, and spread a layer of permatex on both sides of the cork before putting it back together.

Here we are, 3 months later, and now the gaskets aren't leaking, they are pouring coolant all over the place! Does anybody know what works?

Mike

[txcncman]

Attach a photo of the area in question.

[gizmo_454]

Here it is...

Mike

[Machineit]

That does happen when you have the coolant running and the valve closed, but you DO need to do that at times.

Make sure all of the surfaces are totally flat, super CLEAN, and deburred. Use a real good grade of silicone sealant or the equivalent. That stuff will seal anything if used right.

Make sure there are no burrs on the bolt holes on the plate either and bolt it down securely. Now comes the hard part, follow the directions on the sealer and don't use for at least 24 hours probably. After that, do not close off the coolant valve for a few days.

If you do that, it will last a long time. If you hurry it, it will fail again soon. Gaskets are fine, but do it the same, let it wait!

Mike

[txcncman]

That does happen when you have the coolant running and the valve closed, but you DO need to do that at times.

Make sure all of the surfaces are totally flat, super CLEAN, and deburred. Use a real good grade of silicone sealant or the equivalent. That stuff will seal anything if used right.

Make sure there are no burrs on the bolt holes on the plate either and bolt it down securely. Now comes the hard part, follow the directions on the sealer and don't use for at least 24 hours probably. After that, do not close off the coolant valve for a few days.

If you do that, it will last a long time. If you hurry it, it will fail again soon. Gaskets are fine, but do it the same, let it wait!

Mike

+1

[Machineit]

+1

Oh come on, I got one right!?!?!?!?!

Just so you know, I speak from much experience.

This particular machine has less surface area than most older machines, which is good. The older ones were about 10 x 8 inch or about 80 square inches and at maybe 10 to 15 lbs/square inch it was a lot of pressure to bow or deflect the plate.

Just clean it like surgery and let it set up.

Mike

[DaOne]

Sikaflex is what I have used in the past. No problems afterwards. Clean it to the point you can eat off it. That is the most important thing. Any oil and it wont stick.

[gizmo_454]

That does happen when you have the coolant running and the valve closed, but you DO need to do that at times.

Make sure all of the surfaces are totally flat, super CLEAN, and deburred. Use a real good grade of silicone sealant or the equivalent. That stuff will seal anything if used right.

Make sure there are no burrs on the bolt holes on the plate either and bolt it down securely. Now comes the hard part, follow the directions on the sealer and don't use for at least 24 hours probably. After that, do not close off the coolant valve for a few days.

If you do that, it will last a long time. If you hurry it, it will fail again soon. Gaskets are fine, but do it the same, let it wait!

Mike

We gave it a try. I guess time will tell if we got it clean enough. The instructions on the tube said to wait 15 to 16 hours. So we'll give it a try about lunch time tomorrow.

Thank you very much for the input!

:cheers:
Mike

[gizmo_454]

Sikaflex is what I have used in the past. No problems afterwards. Clean it to the point you can eat off it. That is the most important thing. Any oil and it wont stick.

We will probably go that route if what we did doesn't work out. We were just afraid to because the plates will probably never come off again using Sikaflex. That is some strong stuff.

Thank you for the input!

:cheers:
Mike

[DaOne]

We will probably go that route if what we did doesn't work out. We were just afraid to because the plates will probably never come off again using Sikaflex. That is some strong stuff.

Thank you for the input!

:cheers:
Mike

I use a good per-filter so I hope that is the case. It was a real pain getting it sealed up. I tried silicone... It lasted about a week. If I ever need it off I have an air chisel handy

[haastec]

We gave it a try. I guess time will tell if we got it clean enough. The instructions on the tube said to wait 15 to 16 hours. So we'll give it a try about lunch time tomorrow.

Thank you very much for the input!

:cheers:
Mike

That is a good plan. Most places get to impatient to let it set up properly. I have alway had good luck using the Loctite Ultra Black Gasket Maker Silicone. As mentioned though, proper prep and proper dry time are critical.

Sikaflex is the best but it can be a bear to deal with sometimes. Hopefully your fix will hold for a good long time.

Good Luck!

[Waverunner]

We have to clean the heads out every other year and always use new gaskets from Haas. Never have a problem with leaks. The gasket for the pic shown is a 57-0130A and is only around $4.00 ea. The machine is ready to run right away.

[murphdog]

We had this same problem on a regular VF2 several years ago. It had the smaller plates mentioned earlier. We cleaned spotless and reinstalled with a premium silicone. I think it lasted maybe a week. Called Haas and they said to use the Sikaflex, that is what they use from the factory. Cleaned spotless again, used Sikaflex. let it set overnight and had leaks again sometime later. Our answer was to make some billet aluminum plates and incorporate an o-ring gasket. That was several years ago & hasn't leaked since.
Thank You Lord!!!!!!!
Murphdog