[MRM RCModels]

As the title says I'll be converting the lathe to Mach3 along with many upgrades. Hope to have this done in a few months as I have another machine inbound.

The lathe was purchased from eBay and I may have overpaid a tad, but I've been wanting one of these for so long. My requirement was a light production lathe with a turret. The 4 position horizontal types that most turnkey models have left me underwhelmed. Great for internal/external face work, but no auto drilling What sold me on this model is the full 6 position rotary changer :wee:!

Mods
1. All new electronics minus the steppers. (Let me know if anyone need replacement boards or a controller).
1a. New electronics
- Bardac 1600i speed controller running on 240V
- G540 Stepper controller/break-out-board
- Kelinginc 48V 12.5A Power Supply
2. Custom bench
3. New Control Panel
4. Pneumatic Door

Attached Pics
1-3: Just after delivery. Used a 1500lb shop crane to lift it on the temporary workbench. Was much easier that I anticipated; took 1 hour.

2-6: Shot of the electronics; it's all got to go. Send me a PM if anyone is keen on using the stock electrical boards. I like the PCB holders and will incorporate them with the new electronics.

More to come

[MRM RCModels]

Still moving along. Removed all of the old electronics (fig 1). Hooked up the Bardac 1600i speed controller to the spindle and got up to 4000 RPM (figs 2-4)!

Now for the steppers.

[MRM RCModels]

Took time out to design the electrical layout in CAD (fig 1-3). The main electrical panel will be a direct replacement of the original steel model (figures 4 & 5). The electrical panel serves as the mounting surface for the electrical components as well as the earth return for the machine. The panel consists of:

1. Bardac 1600i
2. G540 Stepper Controller
3. 48V w/ 24V/5V Keling Power Supply
4. C10 bi-directional break-out-board
5. 20A EMI Filter

The Bardac 1600 controls the spindle speed and 24VDC brake (override is on the control panel). The G540 interfaces the lathe control panel with Mach 3, integrates the stepper motors, and sends the analog speed voltage to the Bardac. Lastly, the C10 board handles all of the sensor inputs and relay outputs for the machine.

What's Next?
1. Complete the wiring
2. Machine the control and I/O panels
3. Smoke test
4. Complete lathe breakdown and cleaning
5. Build stand (80/20)

Anyone watching this?

[Fastest1]

Yes I am watching! It looks like you are going to motivate me to change a few more things now. Damn organized models and such. I do wonder why you arent using a din rail and snap on terminals but that is a minor difference. Everything else looks great and well organized. I do wonder if you will change the gearing or eliminate it all together on the steppers. After tinkering with mine for a while, I cant figure out how you would really get travel speeds for threading. SmoothStepper? Ron, from Romaxx was using a step multiplier in his original build. Now that I understand a bit more, I think I can see why. My opinion (and it could likely be incorrect) is that modern steppers and controllers might possibly have more power and speed than what was used in this era. Great work, keep the pictures flowing.

[MRM RCModels]

Yes I am watching! It looks like you are going to motivate me to change a few more things now. Damn organized models and such. I do wonder why you arent using a din rail and snap on terminals but that is a minor difference. Everything else looks great and well organized. I do wonder if you will change the gearing or eliminate it all together on the steppers. After tinkering with mine for a while, I cant figure out how you would really get travel speeds for threading. SmoothStepper? Ron, from Romaxx was using a step multiplier in his original build. Now that I understand a bit more, I think I can see why. My opinion (and it could likely be incorrect) is that modern steppers and controllers might possibly have more power and speed than what was used in this era. Great work, keep the pictures flowing.

Thanks, Fastest1. I've been debating the gearing issue for some time. I can either solve it electrically of mechanically. Electrically: have to buy two G250s and step multipliers. Kind of expensive and still left with old, hard to find, steppers. Mechanically: replace the steppers and remove the gearing, and go direct drive. Won't really know for sure until I break down the machine. Right now, I'm leaning to the mechanical solution.

[Fastest1]

I agree on the mechanical solution. This seems like the best way to go. With a decent sized Nema 23, I would think you could get plenty of speed and holding potential. There is/was a thread where a threaded oldham coupler was used as an adjustment for bearing preload and for the mechanical connection to the stepper. It was the only conversion that looked viable. Basically just an adapter plate and the coupler. IIRC the users name was Alex Cole.

[Fastest1]

I keep giving Alex Cole the credit for this but it might have been Travis' idea. Though I seem to remember an Oldham style coupler being used. If I ever do mine it will be that way and with a solid plate adapter. If I find the other I will post it too. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...-_build-2.html

[airamp]

Hi,

Looks like you are doing a great job on this.

I am interested in some of the original electronics that you took out of this machine.

I did send a PM on this.

Thanks,
Mike

[cyclotron]

dyna for the win! this looks awesome, and nice solid modeling too.

[MRM RCModels]

Both came out pretty good (figures 1 & 2). Even managed to mount the new electronics inside the machine (figure 3). It amazing how much technology has progressed since the lathe first came out. The enclosure was jammed with electronics in order to operate the machine. My design does that and then some . Funny things is that someone wil be saying the same thing about my design when I sell this things many years down the road. lol

What's Next?
1. Complete the wiring
2. Machine the control and I/O panels - Done!
3. Smoke test
4. Complete lathe breakdown and cleaning
5. Build stand (80/20)

[Fastest1]

That looks great! Are all functions working? How is the spindle load meter connected? Skip my comment on the terminal blocks LOL.

[MRM RCModels]

That looks great! Are all functions working? How is the spindle load meter connected? Skip my comment on the terminal blocks LOL.

Thanks! The panel is not hooked up yet. I do have all of the wiring designed, just need to make the connections. The spindle load meter is wired in series between the Bardac abd motor. The speed controller output is 0-10.7A, so the meter should be adequate.

I looked into the DIN rails. Should of used them! Oh well, next build.

[MRM RCModels]

Got the other I/O panel installed and populated. Now for the wiring (nuts): hate wiring.

[Fastest1]

Damn organized people with all of the knowledge. How did you get that labeling on your panels? I really like it though I am waiting to see the results you get with the G540. The rapids were just unimpressive even with the SmoothStepper. Also what is that lower strain relief for? Power? It doesnt look like you hate wiring.

[Fastest1]

You did mean 0-10.7V not A, didnt you?

Thanks! The panel is not hooked up yet. I do have all of the wiring designed, just need to make the connections. The spindle load meter is wired in series between the Bardac abd motor. The speed controller output is 0-10.7A, so the meter should be adequate.

I looked into the DIN rails. Should of used them! Oh well, next build.

[MRM RCModels]

Thanks. My machines are organized, but my shop is a mess...how did that happen?

Nope, I meant amps. Voltage output is from 0-90V I think (don't have my spec sheet on front of me). I like the Badac because the output is adjustable. The "load meter" really only measures how many amps are being pulled by the motor. Harder it's work, more amps it pulls.

The panels are cnc engraved using my router. Do a google search for gravograph. It's two tone adheasive backed sheet used in signs.
I could make you a control panel for yours pretty easy. What functions do you want on it?

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk 2

[Fastest1]

I was thinking of the input voltage, it makes sense now. It doesnt look like an engraving. It looks great either way. You have the machine pretty well set up and configured. I am going the touchscreen route and if I ever make up my mind would like to minimize buttons. I have changed my mind before though.

[Fastest1]

Hey I just noticed you have 2 spindle meters, why?

[MRM RCModels]

Hey I just noticed you have 2 spindle meters, why?

One is for the spindle (front panel). The side panel is for the whole machine. I thought it would be nice to know both pieces of information for the electric bill .

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk 2

[Fastest1]

Yeah I am sure the electric bill was the first consideration. Are you using the original spindle encoder? I believe it is an HEDS. If you are using it, can it be used for a tach and for threading? And how would it be wired?