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  1. #741
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    143
    My first router on my machine was the Harbour Frieght model. Ran well and was fairly quiet. But once tested I found that my .250 bit acctually cut a .280 slot. Changed routers to a Dewalt and now with the same bit I get a .250 slot. You have to plan for what you have to work with.

    Dwayne

  2. #742
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    151
    Joe,

    I downloaded the DWG files you posted for R-2. I noticed that the three files

    CNC Router End Support Front Piece
    CNC Router End Support Inside Piece
    CNC Router End Support Rear Piece

    All appear to be identical. In looking at the drawings, I would say that they are all the Inside piece. I say this since they all have the holes for the pipe as well as the cutouts to reduce weight.

    Is it fair to say that the front and rear pieces will not have the pipe through cuts and will be solid (except for fastener holes)?

    THanks for your time and effort in this endeavour.

  3. #743
    That is correct BMG. The front and rear end support pieces are made up of two sections, the inner one for each has the holw in it for the gas pipe and the outer sections for each does not. The gas pipe therefore goes 1/2" into the assembled end section.

    Hope that helps

    David

  4. #744
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    The front and rear pieces are mirror images of each other. and as David mentioned, the cutouts and also the pipe holes go into the material 0.25" to make up the 60" gas pipes, the outer pieces it is not as critical to have the center cutouts on them, i just did this for weight.

    Also remember gas pipes you purchase may be slightly larger than the 36" and 60" and may need to be cut down to size.

    Joe

  5. #745
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    213
    Quote Originally Posted by joe2000che View Post
    Here is a simple and quick way to preload your leadscrews after tighting the acme nut against the bearings. I just simply drilled and tapped the acme nut with a 10-24x3/8 screw, you can go smaller but this is what i had onhand. Sorry for the quality of picture i just took it real quick with cell phone.

    joe
    Joe where in the forum is leadscrew preload discussed ? also is the 1/2" leadscrew plain or threaded where it connects to the 1/2" bore Lovejoy. ? Finally from the picture in your parts list it appears the love joy has a keyway slot. If it is a grubscrew ,allenscrew arrangement attaching a acme threaded rod to the love joy is not a particularly elegant combination .

  6. #746
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    57
    On my kit from Joe ....

    The leadscrews you acquire yourself.

    The leadscrew specified is a standard ACME 10 TPI x 0.50

    The ends are NOT turned down - requires a Lovejoy with 0.05 ID on the leadscrew half.

    The Lovejoys specified in Joe's assembly manual use an allen set screw (1).

    May not be elegant but it works.

    The load on the leadscrew is provided either by double ACME nuts on each end or you can make up an ACME nut with set screw holes bored into opposing sides (I used 1/4-20 setscrews). I chose the latter so that the Lovejoy does not ride against the double ACME nuts.

    The load used varies I guess. Mine are thumb tight with excellent results for the 48 hours I have had it running. I think I recall Joe indicating thumb tight was "right."

    I am running 90 IPM rapids without issue in testing.......

    Regards,
    George

  7. #747
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by mike hide View Post
    Joe where in the forum is leadscrew preload discussed ? also is the 1/2" leadscrew plain or threaded where it connects to the 1/2" bore Lovejoy. ? Finally from the picture in your parts list it appears the love joy has a keyway slot. If it is a grubscrew ,allenscrew arrangement attaching a acme threaded rod to the love joy is not a particularly elegant combination .
    No the lovejoy does not have a keyway slot, its a standard picture they use, or atleast the ones i have bought to not have them and i have bought them three seperate times, they use a setscrew.

    yes leadscrew is threaded all the way. and setscrew clamps down on it.

    I use preload to just put a little presure to help prevent whipping to an extent.

  8. #748
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    213
    Quote Originally Posted by joe2000che View Post
    No the lovejoy does not have a keyway slot, its a standard picture they use, or atleast the ones i have bought to not have them and i have bought them three seperate times, they use a setscrew.

    yes leadscrew is threaded all the way. and setscrew clamps down on it.

    I use preload to just put a little presure to help prevent whipping to an extent.
    Thanks George and Joe for clearing that up...regards mike hide

  9. #749
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    163
    hey Joe how much does your Z axis weigh the part that travels with router mine seems to be very heavy don't have measured weight but thinking it may be to heavy? I have 276oz/in motors

    thanks

    Rob

  10. #750
    truman, I have the xylotex 269 oz/iin steppers and it moves the z axis fine with the router in place.

  11. #751
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    163
    my z axis may be a bit heavier due to the slide piece being alluminum

  12. #752
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    I use the HobbyCNC 200oz kit with no problems, uni-polar drives.

    What is your power supply? volts and amps?

    mine 36v 10amp

  13. #753
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    163
    36V 10A as well with an arcsin board bipolar

  14. #754
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by truman View Post
    36V 10A as well with an arcsin board bipolar
    Looking at your machine i really do not see any problem with the router being pulled back up with the motor, just make sure the controllor board is dialed in to motor, and software setup properly, if it is heavy you can alwayz use springs as a counter weight, I did that on a machine where i used 100oz hp motors.

  15. #755
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    163
    thanks Joe. I hope to get it running this week

  16. #756
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    LOL I was wondering where you guys were getting such long ribs from for the larger box. I was like man, maybe joe forgot then looked and I'm like, wait those two go together don't they! I'm tired I guess . Got all of them glued up, what a smart move joe.

  17. #757
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    480
    Quote Originally Posted by bp092 View Post
    LOL I was wondering where you guys were getting such long ribs from for the larger box. I was like man, maybe joe forgot then looked and I'm like, wait those two go together don't they! I'm tired I guess . Got all of them glued up, what a smart move joe.
    Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, I went so far as to contact Joe to let him know I didn't get the longer ribs. Joe politely let me know that I in fact did get the pieces and that's how he designed it. Duh, I sure felt like an idiot.

    It's very clear by this and other things he's done that he has put a lot of thought into his design! I'll go so far as to say, this is the best project I've worked on. I am having as much fun (except for the painting ) putting mine together as I am watching everyone elses builds!

    Great job Joe!

  18. #758
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    Yes, the design is extremely well thought out. Hey painting isn't that bad, but it would be easier to pull out the hvlp and compressor and just shoot it all in minutes. I might do it for the top coat.

  19. #759
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    213
    Joe did you use all 1/2" MDF? or did you leave the top of the XY box in 3/4" stuff?

  20. #760
    Mike, it is all 1/2" except for back of the z axis slide if I remember correctly

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