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  1. #121
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    New Gantry side pieces, two 1/2" MDF Glued then will be bolted together.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gantry sides.JPG  

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    72
    Awesome machine Joe!
    I was thinking of building another machine as an improvement over my first and now I know I have to build one like this. The dual rail just make sense. Where I work we have a palletizer that stacks containers and this machine uses dual rails to run a carriage. The older models of the same machine we have only a single rail. The dual rail is much smoother. Racking of the gantry has to be much improved over a single rail. Once again, very nice design.

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    2
    Joe I would like to thank you for your postings on your machines you have built. I'm presently building your second machine. The construction is complete and I shoud be receiving my stepper motors next week. I just wanted to know what size of all- thread do you recommend fo the drive screws.

    Thanks again for your posts
    Ken

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by KPaulJ
    Joe I would like to thank you for your postings on your machines you have built. I'm presently building your second machine. The construction is complete and I shoud be receiving my stepper motors next week. I just wanted to know what size of all- thread do you recommend fo the drive screws.

    Thanks again for your posts
    Ken
    In that machine i used 5/16-18 which fit into the standard 8mm skate bearings.

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Finished cutting the Bottom Torsion box ribs, they fit very tight and all even.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bottom Torsion Box 1.JPG   Bottom Torsion Box 2.JPG  

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    2
    Joe, I can't stop stareing at your work. Excellent!! Just thinking, (oh no) why you did not consider using 1/2" or 3/8" baltic birch instead of mdf. The way your joints locks together I wonder if it would be lighter. Any warp would be eliminated by the combination of design and the ability to cut it on your cnc. Another curious Rookie. Johne

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by johne
    Joe, I can't stop stareing at your work. Excellent!! Just thinking, (oh no) why you did not consider using 1/2" or 3/8" baltic birch instead of mdf. The way your joints locks together I wonder if it would be lighter. Any warp would be eliminated by the combination of design and the ability to cut it on your cnc. Another curious Rookie. Johne
    Once the torsion box is glued and nailed it will not warp, that the design of torsion boxes, the top material may be pulling in one direction but the bottom piece will be pushing and not allow it to move, the forces working gainst each other will cancel it out.

    and another factor if MDF is cheaper, and with this new lighter design i would not want to go any lighter then you could introduce chattering into the system.

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    got a chance to finish the bottom torsion box. it weights only 46.5 lbs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bottom Torsion Box 3.JPG  

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    276
    What did the 3/4" version weigh?

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by randyf1965
    What did the 3/4" version weigh?
    I do not know yet, I will weigh it when i take the machine apart and put this one together, I will do a complete comparison and also see how it preforms being as strudy as the 1st one.

    I'm cutting all the parts at 80ipm, its amazing to watch it cut at least that fast.... lol

  11. #131
    Do you have a way of making a video? That would be fun to watch at 80 ipm.

  12. #132
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by mvaughn
    Do you have a way of making a video? That would be fun to watch at 80 ipm.
    Yes I will be cutting the bottom torsion box of the gantry and the end suport pieces of the X axis so i will try to make one cutting. hopefully within a day or two.

  13. #133
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Quote Originally Posted by joe2000che
    got a chance to finish the bottom torsion box. it weights only 46.5 lbs.
    What size is that box. I didn't weigh mine, but estimate it's between 50-70 lbs, 32" x 59 1/2". MDF 1/2" skins, with 3/4 baltic birch ribs, with LOTS of lightening holes.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  14. #134
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21
    What size is that box. I didn't weigh mine, but estimate it's between 50-70 lbs, 32" x 59 1/2". MDF 1/2" skins, with 3/4 baltic birch ribs, with LOTS of lightening holes.
    Mine is roughly 30x58.5" overall and 24" wide center.

  15. #135
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    249
    Hey Joe, love the machine! I'm definetly going with the torsion box design for both axes. I know you've said you could cut at 80 ipm, what are your rapids? Are you using that 24 volt supply with 200oz steppers? Are you using the hobby CNC board? Would you attribute that speed and cutting to the nice router you have as a spindle? Sorry for all the questions! What kind of tolerance does your z-axis hold up to after cutting? Thanks again, I just know that mine will mirror your's and I want to be able to tell the future.

  16. #136
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by WilliamD
    Hey Joe, love the machine! I'm definetly going with the torsion box design for both axes. I know you've said you could cut at 80 ipm, what are your rapids? Are you using that 24 volt supply with 200oz steppers? Are you using the hobby CNC board? Would you attribute that speed and cutting to the nice router you have as a spindle? Sorry for all the questions! What kind of tolerance does your z-axis hold up to after cutting? Thanks again, I just know that mine will mirror your's and I want to be able to tell the future.
    HobbyCNC board, 200oz steppers and the 33.7v input, remember the 24vac x roughly 1.4 = 33.6vdc., and also the router is 8,000 to 24,000 rpm (settings 1-6 on the var. dial) I have it set to 3 which is roughtly 16,000 rpm.

  17. #137
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    101
    If you're still willing to send your SolidWorks files out, I'd love to receive a copy.

    Thanks!

  18. #138
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulH
    If you're still willing to send your SolidWorks files out, I'd love to receive a copy.

    Thanks!
    I'm trying to hold off until i finish this build, I like to make sure everything is ok and working good.

    Joe

  19. #139
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    20
    Hey Joe! It's me from the Lumenlab forum.. (Jefftt)

    Too bad you don't get a "cut" from HobbyCnc, cuz I'm puttin in my order for (3 new) 200 oz, and board kit end of this month!

  20. #140
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    101
    Understood. Just keep me in mind when you're ready :cheers:

    Quote Originally Posted by joe2000che
    I'm trying to hold off until i finish this build, I like to make sure everything is ok and working good.

    Joe

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