[sdantonio]

Joe, Great job, looks really nice and sturdy. A quick question. On your x-axis rods, did you use 0.5 inch galv pipe of 1 inch. The plans call for 0.5, but it looks more like 1 inch in the photos. But photo's can be deceiving.

Steven

[creative_mind]

joe2000che,

Can you pass along the drawings in Solidworks for me to use? I am using Solidworks 2005.

My email address is [email protected]

Thanks

[joecnc2006]

Joe, Great job, looks really nice and sturdy. A quick question. On your x-axis rods, did you use 0.5 inch galv pipe of 1 inch. The plans call for 0.5, but it looks more like 1 inch in the photos. But photo's can be deceiving.

Steven

Yes you are correct they are the 1" Gal. Gas pipes

Joe

[joecnc2006]

joe2000che,

Can you pass along the drawings in Solidworks for me to use? I am using Solidworks 2005.

My email address is [email protected]

Thanks

I will try again but it did not go through when i tried it twice to you before, If nothing else i can send you the e-drawings.

Joe

[joecnc2006]

Joe's CNC Model 2006 R-2

OK Now here it goes, Seems like I'm never happy 100%, altho this machine is very solid and works really well I want to make it lighter without sacrificing its rigidness, The 200oz motors will cut at 80ipm but i'm i do not want to go faster with them being afraid of loosing steps.

I have started to cut the new one using 1/2" MDF Instead of 3/4" for all the interior ribs and also Using 1/4" MDF for the Outer Skins of the Torsion Boxes, I can already tell this is going to be more than 1/4 the weight of the present one, I want to get the Drawings done and machine tested Before I send it to anyone, Hope you understand, If im not happy then i would not expect you to be either.

Joe

[truman]

its a good thing mdf isn't that expensive Joe I really do think your hobby has turned into obsession LOL!

[creative_mind]

I will try again but it did not go through when i tried it twice to you before, If nothing else i can send you the e-drawings.

Joe

Thank you for the eDrawings files and they work fine. I was able to measure the individual parts of the machine in eDrawings and create a new part file in Solidworks.

I like your new idea using thinner MDF for the gantry support - any new eDrawings yet?

Keep up with the great ideas! :banana:

[joecnc2006]

its a good thing mdf isn't that expensive Joe I really do think your hobby has turned into obsession LOL!

What a fun hobby it is ,

MDF maybe not to expensive, but the time i have into this is many many late night hours :bat:

[joecnc2006]

Thank you for the eDrawings files and they work fine. I was able to measure the individual parts of the machine in eDrawings and create a new part file in Solidworks.

I like your new idea using thinner MDF for the gantry support - any new eDrawings yet?

Keep up with the great ideas! :banana:

I am Re-doing all the drawings as i cut it out, I am hopping to have it completed within one weeks time, so the new ones if what i would like people to use.

Joe

[sdantonio]

Right now I'm using solidworkd viewer (I don't have the regulat solidworks CAD yet, but I'm working on it). Is there any way to get dimensional information off of the drawing without solidworks? Nothing else I have (RhinoCAD or AutoCAD) seems to import the solidworks files.

I've been sitting there holding calipers to printouts which seems to work better than you would think, considering that you can rotate the image and get a lot of information from all angles. For the most part I can keep working with the calipers and it seems to be fine, just a bit slow. For example, if you know the y-axis pipes are 1 inch diameter, you can print off the drawing and scale everything from that point. Slow, but effective.

Steven

[joecnc2006]

Right now I'm using solidworkd viewer (I don't have the regulat solidworks CAD yet, but I'm working on it). Is there any way to get dimensional information off of the drawing without solidworks? Nothing else I have (RhinoCAD or AutoCAD) seems to import the solidworks files.

I've been sitting there holding calipers to printouts which seems to work better than you would think, considering that you can rotate the image and get a lot of information from all angles. For the most part I can keep working with the calipers and it seems to be fine, just a bit slow. For example, if you know the y-axis pipes are 1 inch diameter, you can print off the drawing and scale everything from that point. Slow, but effective.

Steven

I can save the edrawings to allow for the measure tool to work in the edrawing viewer, that would be the best way to do it.

Joe

[sdantonio]

Joe, that would be great. I'm not going to be home tonight (have to spend the night in the machine shop from my old grad school) to fab up a few parts.

I'll look for you tomorrow night on microsoft IM.

Just out of curiosity, your x, y, and z aluminum angles for the skate bearings, what were the total lengths of each of them. I'm hoping to cut them tonight since I have use of their huge milling machine and can work in steel rather than aluminum. I was planning on going 8, 10, and 6 inches respectively (adapting from the jgro plans and your prints)

Steven

[joecnc2006]

mine are the same as jgro, 4-8", 2-7.5" and 2-6" (I'm thinking of expanding the 4-8" to 4-10", however that will cut the overall cutting length down by 2" what do you guys think?

Joe

[sdantonio]

Joe, Thanks again for the quick responce. I should at least have the angle stock machined up tonight so I can officially say that I've started to build my first router.

[ger21]

mine are the same as jgro, 4-8", 2-7.5" and 2-6" (I'm thinking of expanding the 4-8" to 4-10", however that will cut the overall cutting length down by 2" what do you guys think?

Joe

I made mine 12" for more stability, but don't know how much difference it would make. I also use 1/4" thick aluminum angle, 1 1/4" x 1 1/4". It's rock solid, no flex at all.

[joecnc2006]

Here is the New Z Axis Carriage, It sure is alot of work to make things lighter by changing the thichkness, one thing changes another.

Anyway the new one weighs 9.5 lbs (old one 12.5 lbs) so you can start seeing how much weight is being shaved off.

[sdantonio]

Hi Gerry,

I finally becided to go the same dimensions as Joe. I was thinking 10 inches for extra stablity, but the extra stability gained for the second set of rails may swamp out any gains from the added length. I went with 1-1/4 X 1-1/4 X 1/8 steel angle (it cut beautifully and very accurately on an 8 foot tall bridgebort - I have a friend who is the machinist at one of he local universities... actually it's the one I went to).

I used .433 offset for the holes (from the angle vertex) as per JGRO. But I have to work out the offset for the 3/4 rod z-axis. In JGRO's plans he has .433 for the 1 inch rod and .465 for 1/2 inch which seems counterintuitive (I would think the smaller rod would have the smaller offset based on geometry).


But when I put them together with the bearings this weekend and see how they sit on the rod I'll decide how to cut the z-bearing angles.

Steven

[joecnc2006]

Hi Gerry,

I finally becided to go the same dimensions as Joe. I was thinking 10 inches for extra stablity, but the extra stability gained for the second set of rails may swamp out any gains from the added length. I went with 1-1/4 X 1-1/4 X 1/8 steel angle (it cut beautifully and very accurately on an 8 foot tall bridgebort - I have a friend who is the machinist at one of he local universities... actually it's the one I went to).

I used .433 offset for the holes (from the angle vertex) as per JGRO. But I have to work out the offset for the 3/4 rod z-axis. In JGRO's plans he has .433 for the 1 inch rod and .465 for 1/2 inch which seems counterintuitive (I would think the smaller rod would have the smaller offset based on geometry).


But when I put them together with the bearings this weekend and see how they sit on the rod I'll decide how to cut the z-bearing angles.

Steven

I use 0.433 for all the bearing slides, its the distance from the actual bearing to the angle (iron or alumn.) that changes depending on the dia. of pipe (See Red area in attached drawing), this does not need to be exact diminsion as long as the bearing rides mostly centered on the pipe beacuse the width of the bearing is about 0.25", I use nuts and washers to get me close to what i need, easy to add and take off as needed.

Joe

[jmytyk]

Hey Joe-- roughly how much material do you have into the machine?? I would guess 2-3 sheets 4x8 sheets? What would be the waste %?

Thanks...

[joecnc2006]

so far on this new one i have 4-24"x48" 1/2" mdf and one 1/4" 24"x48", i would say about 15-20% leftover on each. Just depends on how i can clamp it down to the CNC to Cut it.

I will be able to Cut the Parts for People if they would like to Make this machine when I finish this new one...

Joe