[skipper_52]

Decided to build a 2nd machine based on my 1st Solysia. The 1st table had a cut area of about 22 x 34. The new one is 40 x 48. Going to use a Freud 2-3/4 HP router with a 1/2" collet. Most of the parts are here, I'll post pics as they come. Still not quite done with the plans as there is always "adjustment".

[skipper_52]

Work is progressing. Anti-backlash nuts and brackets installed. I'm getting harmonic distortion in the 1/2" shafts. I'm putting thrust bearing on the ends and hope that most of it goes away when I tighten the shafts down and align everything. Has anyone here heard of a damper that is placed on the end of a shaft in addition to the stepper motor itself or wouldn't this help.

[skipper_52]

Project is still going. Will send more pics this weekend. The flange bearings shown are a little stiff for my liking so I'm making my own with smoother bearings. The thrust bearings I bought from VXB are too small for my liking so I built my own so I can put more pressure on the rods. They're built out of aluminum with steel balls which I know will get feedback from the group because they will wear quicker than hardened steel but they work and the only problem I see is adjusting the pressure occasionally.

[skipper_52]

Guys I really need some help here. My machine is pretty much done. I bought a gecko 4 axis drive and built the control box. Included here is a schematic of the wiring. The machine runs flawless at 120 ipm on rapids. I'm extremely happy with it as there are no dampers on the screws. We finally got it to stall at 160 ipm. I was going to surface my table flat tonight and every time I turn on the router... 1-3/4 hp porter cable var, the box trips. If the router is not running the program runs fine. Doesn't matter how close the router is to the box or if I plug it into an extension cord and another circuit, as soon as the router powers up it trips the board. Can someone please look at the schematic and try and help me past this one. Always appreciate the help.
Ended up putting each x screw on a seperate stepper like carveone did on his new machine.

[CarveOne]

The wire from relay 6 "TO ROUTER" goes to the router, but where is the other router cable connection going to? It should not be the green GROUND wire below it in your drawing. Shouldn't it be to the black wire labeled Neutral? (110 VAC RETURN)

Relay #5 lower left pin (blue wire) goes to the terminal strip, but goes nowhere else. Shouldn't that wire go to the other blue wires for that pin on the other relays? Put a jumper wire from the lower terminal strip to the lower terminal of the upper terminal strip to make that connection?

I think you will need a filter capacitor of some sort on the 24vdc output of the bridge rectifier to smooth the 120hz ripple.

[skipper_52]

One thing I just discovered. The router will run without tripping provided it is on it's lowest speed setting. I have to believe that the router is generating some kind of noise that's tripping something on the 24vdc side.

Sorry about the misprint on the 1st pdf. This one is correct.

I'll ask the electrical engineer at work tomorrow about the filter capacitor.

[CarveOne]

I still question the router power connections. The green wire in the AC cable should go to the green GROUND connection shown at the bottom of your drawing. The white wire in the router AC cable should go to the NEUTRAL (black line in your drawing). The black wire in the router AC cable should be connected to the relay #6 as you show it in your drawing. You don't show two connections TO ROUTER for the router, unless I am to believe it is intended to be the ground wire below those words. That would be incorrect. AC power wiring has two lines, and AC Neutral is not connected to GROUND at power tools and appliances. Ground is only connected to the metal frames of the power tools and appliances.

When you say "tripping" is it tripping the AC circuit breaker in your house/workshop? Or tripping the 48vdc PSU? (I doubt that the PSU has a breaker in it, more likely just a fuse) If you have GROUND and 110VAC connected to the router cable white and black wires, I would expect the circuit breaker in your house/workshop to trip. Turning on the router would be connecting 110VAC to earth ground through the router windings. If there were no speed control circuit in the router the resistance in series with the short circuit would be fairly low, drawing enough current to trip the breaker. With the speed control set to slow speed, the triac in the circuit is probably a high enough resistance to draw some amount of current that is below the circuit breaker's trip rating.

[skipper_52]

Sometimes you overlook the obvious. The relays would only trip when the safety switches were on and not if I by-passed them. Turns out I had a bad limit switch that vibrated when the rpms of the router were high. Replaced the switch and the machine runs fine. Running rapids at 90ipm and cutting at 50-65 ipm. Can't be happier. Does anyone here have patterns for a pistol grips for a Ruger 6 shooter?

[CarveOne]

I see now why the router would only run at low speed. I thought a fuse or breaker was "tripping".

Glad it's reliable now. Isn't it amazing how predictable this stuff is once you squash all the bugs that somehow get built into it?

[skipper_52]

Video of rapids at 90 ipm
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIM6xuOmv5Y"]New Machine at 90ipm.wmv - YouTube[/ame]