[tikka308]

I have to find a better way to saw cut aluminum. 1.5" wide, 0.75" thick pieces; I buy it in 144" length and cut down to 2" blanks to put into my Tormach fixture.

I currently use a miter saw with an aluminum cutting blade (Metal Devil from McMaster 6910A75). I built a stop-gauge on my miter saw, so it's not too bad. However, I hate having my hands near a 5,000 RPM, 8" blade.

I am cutting enough of these (quite a few hundred at a time) that I'd be willing to invest in a better tool for this. What do "real" shops use? My 4x6 bandsaw is too slow. Would a much bigger band saw be quicker? A cold saw? Anything more automated?

[TXFred]

Tikka,

Replace the 4x6 saw's motor with this one from Grizzly.

G2903 Motor 3/4 HP Single-Phase 1725 RPM Open 110V/220V

It's a bolt-on replacement for the original, but it runs cooler and has gobs more power.

I had to buy one of those after my original motor burned up. It has completely transformed the saw. I cut 3" x 1" stock into 3" blanks using the saw, and it gets it done quickly and without problems.

An even better option would be a bigger saw with a hydraulic downfeed and coolant system, like this one. But of course, it costs more.

G4030 6-1/2" x 9 1/2" Metal-Cutting Bandsaw

Frederic

[tikka308]

TXFred - Thanks. FWIW, I have the Jet saw (technically a 5x6, I think). I wonder if it's motor is also deficient in power.

As for the bigger band saw - my issue there is I'd still have to re-clamp on each piece, which is impractical for runs of 200+. Unless I could reliable stack the stock to cut multiple parts in each clamp....

[HorridHenry]

I hate having my hands near a 5,000 RPM, 8" blade.

Does the saw not have clamping attachments?

[tikka308]

Does the saw not have clamping attachments?

It does, but they would take took long to clamp/release for each cut. I know sounds like I am more interesting in performance than safety - and, well, that's exactly why I am trying to find a better solution. Short of an automated (hydraulic?) clamp, which would be awesome (!), clamps aren't going to help get these cut in a safe and timely manner.

[HorridHenry]

Router with an endmill and make a jig for holding the material.

Router would have to be on the slowest speed setting

[mrquacker]

Why not use toggle clamps instead? They have lots of holding power, and are quick to use.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#toggle-clamps/=gypnrc

[tikka308]

That's what I've been thinking about. Ideally, I'd use a pneumatic instead of manual (e.g. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBmIbRs6-9g&feature=relmfu]Homemade DIY Chop Saw Pneumatic Clamp - WidgetWerks.com - YouTube[/ame])

Why not use toggle clamps instead? They have lots of holding power, and are quick to use.

McMaster-Carr

[tikka308]

I can't find the video or page for the life of me - but a few years back, someone DIY'd a very nice automatic clamping system that even indexed the part over (kind of like this - [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=En_Jp53I1DU]Cold Saw MC-360FA-DR.......www.worldsaw.com - YouTube[/ame]) but this was a home shop setup for, I believe, a small band saw. Shot in the dark - but does anyone remember seeing this?

[Geof]

Have a look at post #35 in this thread: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/genera...luminum-2.html

[underthetire]

Tons of used automatic band saws around. Daito was a good one, doall, kaltenbach, many more. Load material and walk away for a while. Kaltenbach actually made a awesome auto feed cold saw. We used to hold .005 on that thing.

[Don Clement]

I also have used a chop saw with a 10" non ferrous carbide blade. However what works best for me in cutting aluminum is a 7x12 bandsaw with a Lennox 4-6 tpi bimetal blade shown here cutting a 6" aluminum round.


Don

[zephyr9900]

Beyond the awesomeness of the cut, two things in the photo strike me:

1. The jack used as a jaw anti-twist-counterforce device.

2. The creative use of a snowblower to apparently convey chips away...



Randy

[beanbag]

Horizontal band saw with coolant can cut thru that with a total cycle time of about 20-30 seconds, even if you stack the pieces.

[Don Clement]

Beyond the awesomeness of the cut, two things in the photo strike me:

1. The jack used as a jaw anti-twist-counterforce device.

2. The creative use of a snowblower to apparently convey chips away...



Randy

Randy:
The Cenco lab jack is a very important part of band saw work holding; keeping the vise jaws parallel and allowing for very short pieces to be held while sawing. Cenco Lab-Jack - Product Details

Don't every Southern California shop have a snow-blower?

Don

[jeffrey001]

You should be able to cut a dozen bars at the same time, just clamp them together at the far end and you will cut 12 parts at the same time.

If you can change the pulley ratio on the band saw to have higher SFM, will be faster too.

You could let the saw cut the 12 pieces and have time to machine on the CNC while the saw is working.

Jeff

[Don Clement]

You should be able to cut a dozen bars at the same time, just clamp them together at the far end and you will cut 12 parts at the same time.

If you can change the pulley ratio on the band saw to have higher SFM, will be faster too.

You could let the saw cut the 12 pieces and have time to machine on the CNC while the saw is working.

Jeff

I cut aluminum at 260 SFM with the 4-6tpi blade using flood coolant. I just don't bother to stack 1" wide pieces as the bandsaw cuts very quickly. The saw does have hydraulic downfeed and flood coolant so can be left unattended for cutting 6" or 7" aluminum rounds. I typically am facing and trepanning a cut piece on the lathe while another is cut on the bandsaw. The real trick to cutting aluminum is the rather course pitch 4-6 tpi bimetal blade. Cutting aluminum with this rig is almost like cutting hardwood. In fact I do cut Black Oak with the same rig for cooking tri-tip Santa Maria style BBQ. BTW The movie Sideways never did mention Santa Maria BBQ at the Hitching Post.

The 7x12 bandsaw also works well cutting 1/2" thick aluminum plate in the horizontal mode with table attached. In the horizontal mode I don't use flood coolant that is messy but rather use a Vortec cold air gun.

Also I haven't found a 4-6tpi blade for my smaller 4x6 bandsaw and if I did my belief is that the smaller diameter band saw tires (wheels?) will shorten the life of the blade to make such a course pitch impractical with the 4x6 bandsaw. Nowadays I only use the 4x6 bandsaw with a fine pitch bi-metal blade for cutting steel, brass or SS.

Don

[GLCarlson]

Don,

Enco was selling Starrett 6 tpi, 64 1/2", 0.025 x 1/2 carbon steel bandsaw blades for 10 bucks last month. I bought a couple to saw 6" steel bar on my 4x6. Took a while to chew through, but with hand applied coolant I got about 10 cuts before the blade broke- that was about 15 hours of running (I'm still using an underpowered Chinese motor). Not what I'd call impressive, but the blades are available and do run, at least for a while, on those little saws.

[tikka308]

Geof - beautifully simple. So much safer! As usual, thank you!

Have a look at post #35 in this thread: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/genera...luminum-2.html

[Don Clement]

Don,

Enco was selling Starrett 6 tpi, 64 1/2", 0.025 x 1/2 carbon steel bandsaw blades for 10 bucks last month. I bought a couple to saw 6" steel bar on my 4x6. Took a while to chew through, but with hand applied coolant I got about 10 cuts before the blade broke- that was about 15 hours of running (I'm still using an underpowered Chinese motor). Not what I'd call impressive, but the blades are available and do run, at least for a while, on those little saws.

I've had my 4x6 for about 20 years. works great for some things e.g. cutting steel with a >10tpi blade. I use the Vortec air gun along with Mobil Omega cutting oil. BTW the original motor was replaced long ago as can be seen here:
This is an example of how not to cut an aluminum round using a fine pitched blade. Also variable pitched blades work much better on the constant speed band saws to reduce harmonics.