[Analias]

With parts trickling in from UPS and FedEx, I should probably consider creating my buildlog for my CPR4848. So here it is.

The configuration I expect to put together is:

• CNC Router Part's CRP4848
• CNC Router Part's NEMA 34 Electronics/Motor Package
• 3HP Water Cooled Spindle
• Hitachi X200 2.2KW VDF
• Mach3 and/or LinuxCNC

The CRP4848 parts have been arriving over the last week, with the last box coming in today. The packing was superb on all the boxes and everything arrived safe and sound. Thanks Arhen.

I ordered my spindle from Automation Technologies, and my VFD from Wolf Automation. On a whim, I purchased the wireless MPG from Automated Technologies - I'm a sucker for gadgets and this one hits all my weak points.

I bought BobCAD-CAM (Pro with Predator and BobART thrown in) for design and tool path generation, Alibre Design Personal for design (with a few enhancements), Google Sketch-up Pro just because I always wanted a copy and I'll use it for STL generation and 3D printing.

I will keep a running album of pictures on Google+ at http://goo.gl/5VV4G. You can also see my Google+ posts on my build by following me at http://goo.gl/yrsOO. I'm not sure what the rules are on posting pictures, but I'm sure they don't want me to post 24 images all at once.

[Analias]

Ahren, do you have any documentation or pictures on how you lay out your pre-built NEMA 34 electronics case? I would expect that would be a huge help for those of us doing their own electronics, but using the CRP kits.

[Analias]

Has anyone fitted a Kent dust shoe on a CRP4848 with a 80mm water cooled spindle? When ordering from Kent, which spindle option should I chose and should I get any additional parts (ie. the 1/2" spacer, etc.)?

[ahren]

Analias,

We're in the process of moving our pre-wired systems over to the PMDX-126 board, so we don't have a complete layout yet, but keep in touch in the coming weeks and I'll supply what I have.

As to your dust shoe, send Kent a picture with some dimensions and he can recommend the best solution. It's sometimes best to connect to the bottom 60mm flange than the body of the spindle.

As to posting pictures, please do! That's what these build logs are all about, and the forum limits the size of uploads automatically. No worries there.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts

[Analias]

With the shop nearing completion, or at least usability, I started working on a design for the CRP4848 base. I have looked and have found no plans and very little discussions on the subject of CRP4848 bases. I thought I would throw mine out there for folks to comment on and begin some discussion.

The overall driving design factors were to provide a stable and rigid platform to build my CRP4848 on. The provided storage on the front was only included in the design because it gave me another opportunity to add some rigidity along the X and Y axis.

All the construction is 4x4, 2x8, 2x4, and 3/4" plywood. What you don't see in the pictures is a sheet of plywood on the top, inset into the frame. I left it out so you could see the interior design. The beige box on the right side, is the enclosure for the electronics.

[Analias]

I added some 2x4s along the top edge and down the X axis to provide support for anchoring the top (the 3/4" plywood top not shown) and to make the design a bit more rigid. This is probably overkill.

I really would like to hear from others what they have done for their own designs that are as large as the CRP4848, or for support for any type equipment like a large CNC machine. Other than making a couple benches over the years, I haven't done a lot of designs like this.

[DonFrambach]

...This is probably overkill....

Although I don't have a whole lot of experience, I must say that "overkill" is something I've never regretted in my builds!

[vtx1029]

Nothing wrong with over building it. Strength and weight are a good thing for a frame. I started out down the road of building a wood base but went to 8020 for $ and ease of building. Only thing I would change on your base if it were mine would be removing the center dividers so it would be more usable for storage.

[Analias]

@ChiltonDom, that's what Arhen had said. It looks like you may have tried to post some pics with that post. If it was about the about the Kent dust boot, I would be very interested in seeing them.

[alan_3301]

@ChiltonDom, that's what Arhen had said. It looks like you may have tried to post some pics with that post. If it was about the about the Kent dust boot, I would be very interested in seeing them.

that user is a bot, for some reason they just repeat exactly what others have said. maybe when they get their postcount up, the spamming begins?

[Analias]

I was looking through the new PDF drawings of the CRP4848 plans and I got curious how tight the carriage bolts should be when building out the kit. Does anyone have any recommendations for a setting when doing final tightening of bolts without deforming the aluminum?

[alan_3301]

I don't think you have to worry about deforming the aluminum, but the carriage bolts will definitely stretch if you go too tight. I torqued all my 5/16 fasteners to 12 ft-lbs and 3/8 fasteners to 15 ft-lbs

[Analias]

Here's the final design I went for with the base. I started cutting wood tonight. Tomorrow I'll rip the plywood for the sides and start putting it together. Doing the design in Sketchup Pro and using the drawing as a guide for measurements seems to work really well.

This is the part I hate the most. Every time I put together a fixture like a bench or base like this I always seem to loose all the care I put into it the design and measuring by munging the construction. No matter how much care I put into it, it always seems to be out of square or off in some way.

[Analias]

I made some progress on the base over the weekend. It's starting to look like what I drew up in the plans.

I'm such a newbie. I made a couple of annoying mistakes so far. I should have used shorter carriage bolts. I'll have to go back and replace some of the longer ones that may get in the way. Also, If you look close you'll notice the gap in the corner where my miter cuts were cut short. I don't know how I did that. I measured three times and made many test cuts with scraps of the same type of wood. I'm not sure if I should fill the gap or cut the longs down to the shorts and replace the shorts. Doh!

I knew there wasn't going to be a lot of room in the shop once the CNC machine was built, but (as you can see) I'm starting to feel the squeeze a bit I have to shuffle tools and parts around every time I need to cut or assemble.

[Tundraman]

I'm such a newbie. I made a couple of annoying mistakes so far. I should have used shorter carriage bolts. I'll have to go back and replace some of the longer ones that may get in the way. Also, If you look close you'll notice the gap in the corner where my miter cuts were cut short. I don't know how I did that. I measured three times and made many test cuts with scraps of the same type of wood. I'm not sure if I should fill the gap or cut the longs down to the shorts and replace the shorts. Doh!

Analias
The overall length (outside to outside edges of the miters) should be your required length of the bench dimension. You can slide them in to match up and lose a little on the overall size of the top or check the length of those 4 pieces and see which ones need to be replaced.

When you mark the lengths be sure to mark the cut side of the mark. Then cut to the far side of the line keeping the edge of the blade on the line and allowing the kerf to taken from the waste side of the line. If you are not careful the kerfs add up an things don't end up the size you want.

As far as the carriage bolts go you can cut the extra length off with hacksaw, sawzall, cutoff wheel, etc. if you done want to replace them all.

Just my $.02 worth.

The base looks very good! Will be watching.

Just a quick question if I may ask - how much do you have invested to this point? I would love to do one of these, pretty much the same setup, just can't seem to get the cash together. My daughter is getting married in the fall, you know life sometimes gets in the way of the fun stuff.
Thanks,
Scott

[Analias]

The base for CRP4848 is "nearly" done. It would be done if I had ordered eight leveling feet from Grizzly instead of six. Now I have wait until the two remaining feet arrive and I install them before I can start putting together the CRP4848 on top of it. At least I can work on the electronics while waiting for the parts to arrive.

This thing is a beast. There is no flex in the base at all. I have tried pushing and pulling with all my weight and it doesn't move.

[Analias]

Just a quick question if I may ask - how much do you have invested to this point? I would love to do one of these, pretty much the same setup, just can't seem to get the cash together. My daughter is getting married in the fall, you know life sometimes gets in the way of the fun stuff.
Thanks,
Scott

I assume you mean the whole project and not just the base. A quick estimate put the total just under $7K. That includes the CRP4848, NEMA34 electronics, 3HP variable speed spindle, Hitachi X200 VFD, PMDX boards and cables (PWM spindle controller, gecko motherboard, gecko heat sink, cables, etc.) , PCI dual parallel port card, and base.

Oh, btw, the sawzall was a great idea for the bolts. Cut through them like butter. Gives me another reason to love that tool. It brings out the Tim Allen in me - har har har.

[Analias]

We're in the process of moving our pre-wired systems over to the PMDX-126 board, so we don't have a complete layout yet, but keep in touch in the coming weeks and I'll supply what I have.
CNCRouterParts

Ahren, I purchased the PMDX-Heatsink-01 and the PMDX-134 motherboard for the Geckodrive 201X(s). I'm wondering how to best mount the heat sink. I was considering mounting it vertically on the outside of the case on either the right or left side. On the right side, I would have to relocate the power switch. On the left I would have to find a new point to ground the cover. What would you recommend?

If I do the mounting on the outside, I would need to make a cut out to mount the heat sink and allow access to mounting the PMDX-134 with the Geckodrives from the inside. What would you recommend for cutting the enclosure? I was considering a disk cutter, but if you know something better to use I'm all ears. I would like to hear from anyone with a suggesting for this question.

[Analias]

Grrr... I'm in the process of building the X-axis (the base). Everything has been going together pretty well. I was in the process of install the R&P track when I ran into a nasty problem that I will need some advice on.

The rail and the press fit brackets went in just fine on the right side. Nary a problem and it went together as it should. When I got around to the left side I had two carriage bolts fail on me on two different brackets. Both failed when the bracket was 95% pressed into the aluminum track.

How do I extract the press fit brackets without destroying the bracket, the aluminum, or the R&P track? Any advice would be appreciated.

[allengambrell]

I had to remove my rack brackets for my y to move the rack to the other end. I just used a flat screwdriver and hammer and pryed each side evenly from inside the t channel. It took me a bit and got it done. Go carefully.