[TXFred]

I'm sure that the first thing you're asking is "Why?"

I have a plan and I need a sanity check.

I have a Tormach 1100, Series 2, with an 8" fourth axis. My table carries two Glacern vices which are parallel and coplanar. That's not a quick and easy setup, and I like to leave them in place whenever possible. But when I need to use the fourth axis, one of them has to come off.

The fourth axis and the vices are quite heavy and a pain to move.

But I have a very nice Sherline 4th axis with a Keling KL23H2100-35-4B attached and wired up. A lot of my 4th axis work is less than two inches in diameter, with very light machining loads. So the Sherline might be up to the task. With a few modifications to the Sherline's base, I could set it up so it can be clamped in one of the vises.

It looks like the following DIP switch settings will give me 3.2 amps and 10 microsteps.
1 On
2 Off
3 On
4 On
5 Off
6 On
7 On
8 Off

Can anyone think of a flaw in this plan?
And, does anyone know where I can get another of the green connector blocks that plugs the stepper motor wires into the driver? I'll need a spare if I want to do quick switch overs between the two configurations.

Frederic

[compunerdy]

I replaced my 4th axis motor with a Keling one so its not a big deal. I would get the black round plug that goes into the side of the machine instead of the green one at the driver.

[TXFred]

I replaced my 4th axis motor with a Keling one so its not a big deal. I would get the black round plug that goes into the side of the machine instead of the green one at the driver.

I thought about that. The reason to swap at the driver is to remind me to reconfigure the DIP switches.

The Keling motor is best set at 3.2 amps, and the Tormach motor uses 2.7. There's a risk of frying the Tormach motor.

For the initial test, I'm going to try the Keling motor with the Tormach's configuration. The motor is oversized for the rotary table, so it may work just fine at 2.7 amps. If that's the case, then I will follow your suggestion.

I'm going to wait until tomorrow to try it out. I want to bounce this idea off of one of Tormach's engineers before I try anything.

Frederic

[Zetopan]

Frederic:

"Can anyone think of a flaw in this plan?"

The Keling model number that you provided is actually for a motor rated at
3.5 amps rather than the 3.2 amps that you stated. A more serious problem
is that the Sherline rotary table has a 72:1 worm drive ratio rather than the
more common 90:1 that the Tormach rotary table has. This means that the
angular calibration setting in the Mach 3 setup will also have to be changed
every time that you switch between those two rotary tables.

There are other alternatives available, some requiring more work than others.
I have my home made 8" rotary table mounted at the extreme end of the mill
table so that I very rarely have to move it (only for workpieces that are very
long, and this has never happen yet). You might want to consider mounting
the Tormach rotary table somewhat beyond the end of the T-slots using an
extension plate to provide sufficient room for non-rotary table work. Such a
plate would be quite trivial to make and if you use a tail stock it would also
need to be adjusted upwards by the thickness of the plate to keep the two
centers aligned.

[TXFred]

Frederic:

"Can anyone think of a flaw in this plan?"

The Keling model number that you provided is actually for a motor rated at
3.5 amps rather than the 3.2 amps that you stated. A more serious problem
is that the Sherline rotary table has a 72:1 worm drive ratio rather than the
more common 90:1 that the Tormach rotary table has. This means that the
angular calibration setting in the Mach 3 setup will also have to be changed
every time that you switch between those two rotary tables.

Two good points.

I chose 3.2 amps because the Tormach driver doesn't have a setting for 3.5 amps. 3.2 is the closest option.

The worm ratio is pretty easy to deal with. I've cloned the Mach configuration, and can edit the clone to work with the Sherline table.

Frederic

[TXFred]

I gave it a try today. It works, and was easier than I thought it would be.

First I connected the motor and set the driver to 3.2 amps. That worked just fine.

Then I powered down and set the driver back to the Tormach setting of 2.7 amps. The motor still worked.

So I'm just going to get another Amphenol connector for the Sherline table's cable, and I'll be in business.

I'll be sure to post back if I let the smoke out of anything. Hopefully this will be the end of this thread.

Frederic

[compunerdy]

Glad to hear it all worked out for you. I have a 6 inch rotary and thought of getting a smaller one as well since everything I do is 2" OD or under.

[TXFred]

I did some testing today. Now I have monogrammed shot glasses.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOiBB3xEphk]Engraving a shot glass on a Tormach. - YouTube[/ame]

[tbaker2500]

Heh. Fun.

[Sp-4renegade]

Sweet.

[05kevin]

TXFred,

That’s awesome

Kevin

[KrausMotor]

TXFred, what kind of tool is that in the video? I imagine a diamond tipped bit, but did you make the sprung holder?

[TXFred]

I bought that from another Zone user. He offered a good price, so it wasn't worthwhile to make my own.

Here's his post, including pictures of the assembly and a link to the source for the diamond tip.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/1035735-post6.html

[Gerry Sweetland]

Pretty cool Fredric.
Incredible on how you got the glass to chuck up. I don't think I could do that with out braking the glass or it falling off the chuck LOL
Man, I gotta get a 4th axis.
Gerry

[TXFred]

Gerry,

The shape of the shot glass is important The lip of that one engages the grooves on the chuck jaws. I just wiggle and tighten until there's no more wiggle. The jaws aren't all that tight.

I tried one test with the shot glass turned around the other way. It walked its way out of the chuck.

The nice thing about the springloaded engraver is that it compensates for runout. The program never moves Y away from the centerline. The result is that the shot glass doesn't have to be perfectly centered for the program to work.

[David Bord]

Fred,

Very cool! Have you tried the drag engraver on Alum? If so, how does it work and do you have any examples to share?

David

[TXFred]

David,

I've been spending last week and this one getting my ecommerce site online, so I have a pile of product photos.

Here's one of my tattoo machines. I had it anodized black, and then drag engraved it using that diamond. The part with the logo is 0.375" thick, so it's very small. I'm very pleased with how it came out.

[steveb946]

I'm sure that the first thing you're asking is "Why?"

I have a plan and I need a sanity check.

I have a Tormach 1100, Series 2, with an 8" fourth axis. My table carries two Glacern vices which are parallel and coplanar. That's not a quick and easy setup, and I like to leave them in place whenever possible. But when I need to use the fourth axis, one of them has to come off.

The fourth axis and the vices are quite heavy and a pain to move.

But I have a very nice Sherline 4th axis with a Keling KL23H2100-35-4B attached and wired up. A lot of my 4th axis work is less than two inches in diameter, with very light machining loads. So the Sherline might be up to the task. With a few modifications to the Sherline's base, I could set it up so it can be clamped in one of the vises.

It looks like the following DIP switch settings will give me 3.2 amps and 10 microsteps.
1 On
2 Off
3 On
4 On
5 Off
6 On
7 On
8 Off

Can anyone think of a flaw in this plan?
And, does anyone know where I can get another of the green connector blocks that plugs the stepper motor wires into the driver? I'll need a spare if I want to do quick switch overs between the two configurations.

Frederic

TXFred--you might find the mating green connectors (Phoenix brand is one type ) from Mouser electronics or DigiKey here in the USA.