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  1. #781
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    So where would I get some 1/2" - 13 recessed plugs for the unused holes? I am not fairing so well on my search for them. A plastic type material would be best (cheapest) A big bag of them. Anyone?

    I estimated 320 holes, at 2 minutes each to hand tap.. that makes it somewhere on the order of 10.6 hours to tap all that. I will defiantly tap the outer ring of dense holes. The ones in the middle will hide under individual fixture plates, so if I had to prioritize tapping, it would go like that.

    I saw some Nylon Flat point set screws (Mcmaster 94564A505) which in a pack of 25 each would require 13 packs, at $10.38 would equal $134.94 to fill every single hole. I hope there is a cheaper alternative.

  2. #782
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1806
    Did a google for "1/2-13 socket head plastic set screws" and here is one that came up:

    1/2-13 Flat Point Nylon Socket Set Screw by MICRO PLASTICS - Socket Set Screws by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies
    Art
    AKA Country Bubba (Older Than Dirt)

  3. #783
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    636
    When I made something similar a couple years ago, I used a butterfly impact wratchet and a 1/2-13 spiral flute tap. Holes take about 10 seconds each. I ended up finsihing them with a bottoming tap in a cordless drill to get the last couple of threads cut towards the bottom of the hole, but much quicker and easier then doing them by hand.

    My plate
    Check out what I am working on at www.routerbitz.com!

  4. #784
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1543
    I use a Dewalt 12v impact and spiral flute taps for alum. Get some good tap fluid to fill the holes and go to town. You won't break a tap under 3/8" with that "weak" 12v impact.

  5. #785
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    I might end up using a cordless drill along with a jig. Eventually my arm may tire from holding the drill

    More pics in the AM. Doing something neat at the moment.

  6. #786
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    +1 on the cordless drill/driver. Easy peasey with thru holes and gun taps

    Sent from tapatalk

  7. #787
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    I took the tool plate off to start the tapping process. What I did in the mean time was carve out small channels to allow the coolant to exit the holes. I debating upon making the channels VERY thick to allow chips to flow through there, but then I decided the smaller the better, just looking to drain fluid. Looks sort of like a cast iron lapping plate or something now.

  8. #788
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    *edit* duplicate post



    3 down... hundreds to go. Arms are somewhat tired after 30 holes now... My cordless drill keeps slipping on the shaft of the tap.

  9. #789
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    Pics in the AM.

    Shopping list for tomorrow:
    1/8" ID washers, (for riveting plexi)
    4' sections of 1.5x1.5 aluminum angle (0.125 thick)
    4' sections of 1.25x1.25 aluminum angle
    some sort of magnets

  10. #790
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    No idea whats going on with duplicate posts, but whatever.

    HOORAY for doors!

    Simple 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 angle iron from Lowes. welded together, with the Optix polycarbonate (the "not quite lexan stuff")

    The ghetto fabulous mounting:

    T-hinge, chopped off, welded to frame, hole enlarged, and screwed to the fabulous 80/20

    Even went so far to make an inner lip so it doesn't splash through the crack between each door:

  11. #791
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    And here comes the test fitting of the bellows:

  12. #792
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1543
    Buy Irwin tap holders, no more slipping.

  13. #793
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    I got it down to 7 seconds per hole with a 1/2 corded drill.

  14. #794
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    I really dislike the bellows. They look great, but they are so light and flimsy. The shower pan liner was so much more durable and weighted down.

  15. #795
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    i think I came up with a great ides to support the bellows. More on that in the AM. Video is uploading and I am exhausted.

  16. #796
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414

    Here you will see 2 thin strips of aluminum. One is straight and the other is wavy. The straight one on top is supposed to give the bellows a flat surface to ride along when weighted down with chips. The wavy "spring" is designed to keep the upper strip supported so the bellows don't pinch anywhere. This setup is just an experiment, and the top strip will need some grease because it will be in contact with the top floating table. What do u guys think? If this doesn't work, i am thinking about re-engineering the roller setup with the shower pan liner. I LOVE that stuff. Much better then the bellows.

    Not sure why the audio cut out after a few seconds, but who needs to hear a stepper motor whirring anyway.

  17. #797
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    The experiment worked.

    In any case, this is why I hate bellows:

  18. #798
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    Yea... this is me drilling into the side of my 16x16 tool plate! THAT is some awesome Z!

  19. #799
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1543
    Hell yeah!

  20. #800
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1414
    Does anyone have any idea what to do about these bellows? I really have no idea what to do to keep them from popping up like that. I am absolutely disappointed in the performance of the bellows. Not to mention, they trap so much stuff in them instead of rolling off like the shower pan liner. maybe I bought crappy bellows, but i didn't have much choice from McMaster. melamine-coated polyester, or what feels like the X2's construction paper bellows. bleh.

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