[nateman_doo]

I ordered an EPMD rubber chord to try out , and I also got a spring steel. They should be arriving today.

You are correct Top, I just don't want that much tension on them.

[nateman_doo]

The Constant force spring was a bust. Well... sort of. The idea works, but the spring I bought had 1lbs of force, so it barely moved it.


The EPMD works much better then the 1 lbs spring. I would assume a stronger spring would bring better results, but since I now own the EPMD cord, I will roll with that for the time being.

[nateman_doo]

Finished the rear bellows:

Its pretty sweet to be just THAT much closer to finishing...

Lights arrived too:


Sorry about that weird lighting, for some reason my phone takes weird pictures under that florescent light. Those are 120V 10W LED waterproof flood lights. $15.00 each.

[nateman_doo]

On the analog, you are correct.

I am confused about your talk on the relays.

On your C11 board, you have 12 total outputs, you can use 2 of them for on board relays (pins 1 and 16). You only need 1 signal (run/stop) to go to the VFD. You could use 1 of the C11 relays for that and the other for coolant, or you could use the onboard relays for lights and liquid and then use another output for the run/stop signal to the VFD. If you setup the VFD for sinking inputs, you should be able to use a 2N7000 or something to connect your C11 output pin directly to the DI1 pin on the VFD. It is discussed here: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy_cn..._settings.html

I attached a crude schematic of how you would connect it with the C11 set to COM=GND.

Matt

ordering 25 of them:
2N7000 Fairchild Semiconductor | Mouser

[nateman_doo]

Silly question... Has anyone ever monitored Mach3 running on another computer from their home network?

[outsider787]

I've connected to the mach3 computer using VNC while mach3 was doing some cutting.
Didn't skip a beat for me, though I didn't maintain the connection for very long.

adrian.

[nateman_doo]

I've connected to the mach3 computer using VNC while mach3 was doing some cutting.
Didn't skip a beat for me, though I didn't maintain the connection for very long.

adrian.

I got something called Team Viewer. I will try it out soon.

In any case, I got some 10lbs constant force springs and they seem MUCH more up to the task. I am trying to figure out how to mount them in a similar fashion that I did for the Y axis 24" way covers. Lots of aluminum angle involved.

[nateman_doo]

Finally managed to wire up the 2 lights:






Updates have been very slow going. Been caught up on the electronics hurdle, and designing the self retracting floating X way covers.

[nateman_doo]

Finally tried out the X way covers. Came up with an independent suspended system with the constant velocity spring. Not impressed with the 10 lb spring.

[Fastest1]

I think if you connected the bungee for the Y cover to each other it would work better. Wrap the bungee say 6 revolutions on one roller. Drill hole thru other roller. Pull bungee thru the hole and put the amount of tension you desire and then knot it. As one rolls up, the other rolls out, maintaining a constant tension not a varying one.

[nateman_doo]

I have thought of that, but there would be this bungee floating out there in space. Just would look awful. I will keep brainstorming. So far I think the frame is a good place to start. I am still open to suggestions.

[keebler303]

Nate, you know the control cables for bicycle brakes, you could use one of those to connect the two "drums" and it would be basically hidden from sight.

Matt

[Bloy2004]

Nate,
Have you explored the retractable window shade rods? they work similar to garage door springs just a much smaller scale. Maybe the core of the drums could utilize that. I've seem some DIY "cut to length" spring retract shade rods, but that was way back when I was fitting shades(now removed) to our windows. I think the maps in classrooms use those too(medium size).

..just a thought.

[nateman_doo]

Nate, you know the control cables for bicycle brakes, you could use one of those to connect the two "drums" and it would be basically hidden from sight.

Matt

Thats really not a half bad idea... I would need a short one. anchor the end of each of the tubes, and direct where I want the force (hidden under the table) with bungee.

[nateman_doo]

The start of the right sides bellow frame:


The more I oil/grease the constant force spring, the more it seems to be "ok" for what I need. I just have to beef up the frame a bit to deal with the 10 lbs of force.

[keebler303]

Nate

I am not sure you are using the constant force springs as intended. Can you post an up close picture? There may be a way to optimize.

Matt

[nateman_doo]

fair enough. I will take a picture later today

[nateman_doo]

Fully contracted


Fully rolled out

click here:


and here is the other side frame:

[nateman_doo]

Ta daaaaa:

[nateman_doo]

Love it? hate it? What say you.