[nateman_doo]

I ordered a new C15 relay board since i remembered that was driving both the air and liquid. I did break out the meter, but didn't quite get to trouble shoot it that well. Figured the $18 or so dollars for a new relay board wouldn't be a bad idea. Now I am physically bound to the machine. I used to let it run overnight, or walk away. now I can because the fluid will constantly run.

[keebler303]

Get yourself a lamp timer, it will automatically shut off your coolant (or anything else) for you. A trip to any local hardware store should get you one. Much better than babysitting all day long...

Landscape Lighting - Intermatic Heavy Duty Mechanical Timer

[nateman_doo]

OMG you win the internet today! Brilliant!
still going to sit down and troubleshoot the relay board... but wow that is such a good idea. I wish I thought of that years ago

[LeeWay]

And that is why it is good to be a member of the CNC Zone.

[nateman_doo]

You know what...? The most PITA scenarios that I can dream up... tend to happen. Here I am on the eve of a FOUR day weekend, and smoke pours out of my machine. I grounded out the machine and it destroyed the 12V output of the power supply. I bypassed with the computers power supply, and still nothing. Now i have to figure out what all those christmas tree lights mean on the C11 board. what a bad start to the weekend.

[nateman_doo]

But there is a happy ending...

I had and extra C11 board for the 2nd CNC I was building. I replaced it and were back up and running.

Still dont have the flood and mist working (and I replaced the dual relay board too.... *scratches head*

I personally think there is an 8pin IC on the board with a FA2 sticker on it. I think that one is bad. It was much hotter then the rest. Not to mention the sticker came off. Its like it got so hot the sticker burned off.

[nateman_doo]

So, back on the relay board. I see the C11 board light up, when I use M7/M8, and turn off with M9. AND... the C15 Relay board lights up with either or both are engaged... but no relay clicking. The Voltage in's are 120V, but I still just don't hear the relays clicking on.

[Stigoe]

You have 3 LEDs on the board. Is the single LED (by the power connector) lit up? Have you checked that you have power coming in (+5VDC or +12VDC, not 120VAC for the relay output)? Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like the LEDs are on the input side of the optocoupler and would light up when you get the signal in, but you still need to have external power in on the other side of the optocouplers to turn on the relays.

[nateman_doo]

I think another short messed up this new board. Mach now wont kick out of reset mode. all the top C11 input LED's are now out. Its almost 2 am. No good will come of this the more and more I dig into this.
all the LEDs are much dimmer now.

[nateman_doo]

Well, since there is no damage to either of the boards, I will try replacement chips. inexpensive solution. Things like the opto-isolation of the board, and replacement chips are a part of a VERY well designed board. What happened last night (or this morning if you look at it) I was energizing a motor on the table, and the motor shorted out which sent a surge through the system (since the table is grounded). It shorted the 12V output of the power supply (as well as the BoB), so I just used the PC power supply's 12 volt rails to give power to the the spindle.

Replacement chips for both C11 boards are on order and I will be twiddling my thumbs for a FOUR DAY WEEKEND. Sooooo bent out of shape about that, but my shop is a MESS. what better excuse to clean it up?

[nateman_doo]

I have been swapping various IC's and got more lights on the BoB to light up. Got the Emergency cutoff to turn off, but still no motor movement.

[nateman_doo]

The replacement chips came... but it only came with the following chips:


The empty ones are supposed to be ones that cannot get damaged.

Here is a small MS Paint thingy i made for the chips:


The blue chips are what it came with, and the yellow chips are the ones that it didn't come with. I am not too sure, but I think I messed up a chip that wasn't included. The C12F6 8 pin chip was hot. I replaced it and it worked. Then i shorted it out again and more chips went. I will try the old chips with these new ones & see what happens.

[nateman_doo]

No dice. Replaced the chips and still nothing. the input lights work, but no output, and the green enable light wont work.

Ordering ALL the chips from mouser:

[keebler303]

The PIC12 is a microcontroller. It has to be programmed for it to work. You can't just buy a new one and plug it in, there is no code on the microcontroller for it to run. All the others are discrete chips that you can replace without issue.

If you indeed damaged the PIC, that is likely why it isn't working. Only way to replace that will be from the mfg.

Matt

[nateman_doo]

your kidding me. Thats no fun. I just had all that crap overnighted. I have been swapping chips all over the place and still it wont work.

[keebler303]

I think the PIC controls the safety charge pump, maybe nothing else? Did you try to turn off the charge pump (move the little jumper by the PIC12)?

[nateman_doo]

there were no software changes. This was a hardware failure. I just have to replace the chips. They were supposed to be here already, but they haven't arrived. I am going out of my mind with this machine down for well over 2 weeks.

[keebler303]

there were no software changes. This was a hardware failure. I just have to replace the chips. They were supposed to be here already, but they haven't arrived. I am going out of my mind with this machine down for well over 2 weeks.

You are killing me!

The safety charge pump is HARDWARE. It gets a constant pulse train from the computer telling it that everything is ok. If it doesn't get that signal or stops getting it, it will disable outputs to prevent runaway conditions or uncontrolled movement. This type of logic can very easily be implemented with a timer on a PIC12 microcontroller. I think it is no coincidence that the jumper on the BOB that disables the safety charge pump is RIGHT NEXT TO the PIC. It would take 2 seconds to switch the jumper to the other position and would likely bypass the PIC altogether which may get you running NOW.

Matt

[nateman_doo]

Machine is back up and running... BUT...
There is something wrong with the X axis. The motor only spins in one direction and slides the table to the right (going into the negatives and homing) when I make it slide to the left into positive numbers, it continues to go to the right, but the numbers go up. I swopped the motor figured that it was shot during the short.

The geko drivers light up just fine, so I have no idea what to try now...

[jsheerin]

See if your direction pin to that drive is changing voltage when you change directions. It sounds like the step pulses are fine, but the direction voltage isn't changing.