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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking > MetalWork Discussion > Deburring of a large qty of turned spacers
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    23

    Deburring of a large qty of turned spacers

    Hi,

    We are making steel spacers for a client.

    We are using stock tube, 1/2 OD , approx 0.400 ID , 3/4 length.

    We run these on a bar feeder, only using a part off tool.

    Parts come out quick but have a burr becasue of the part off.

    One of my employees then takes them and deburrs them by pressing againts a chamfer tool set-up on a drill press. We're probably making 1500 of these a day but now everyone's fingers have blisters...

    I made a jig holding 20 of them, and deburring them on a machining center but the time required to load / unload the jig was too long.

    Would anyone have suggestions to automate the deburring ?

    Thanks,

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    0
    You can just stick your parts in one of those vibratory machines...or try to machine without causing burrs if possible.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3206
    geezus h....

    Add a chamfer tool opposite the cutoff that will chamfer both ends of the part just to break the edge on the OD. That makes for a part that's easier on the fingers.

    You could even be innovative and add an ID chamfer to the front, so you only had to orient and chamfer one end of the finished part....

    In any case, suck it up, pull up a chair, turn on some tunes, and see how many parts an hour you can run. Running automatic screw machines for decades and deburring countless thousands of parts on a belt sander or chamfer tool in the drill press? I know of what I speak.

    Using a tumbler or vibratory finisher MAY work, depending on the material and how big the burr is, and how aggressive the media/machine is... Nothin' like a big ole Sweco...

    --------Hint-----------------

    Bring the table on the drill press up close to the spindle, put the part on end on the table, set the stop on the spindle so that when you pull the handle the chamfer always goes to the same depth, and gives the same, uniform chamfer.
    MUCH easier on the fingers, and just about as fast for all practical purposes.... and far more consistent product. Pushing the part up into the chamfer tool is very fatiguing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    123
    How about a dowel pin jig where attach a large number of dowel pins into a steel plate in a grid, then add drop on a set of the spacers onto all of the pins. Then put the jig in a vertical CNC to chamfor\deburr them at the same time. Then just remove the jig, turn over it so all the spacers fall into a box. I am assuming that you just need to deburr the inner hole and that the outside doesn't need to be deburred. I assume for the outside you can chamfor them in the lathe before you cut them off. I think the downward force applied using a chamfer bit should prevent the workpeice from spinning excessively. If its does spin, perhaps by gluing some abrasive (sand to the bottom of the jig plate would give it enough friction to allow you to deburr without clamping. I am envisioning a jib plate (square or rectangle) that can handle 50 to 150 spacers at a time, and you set up the jig so you don't have to zero it for each run, you have it set up in the machine so perhaps using large machine vise or right angle squares that are already set in the machine. The Jig should be easily to build, just a flat 3/8 to 1/2 thick. use your CNC to drill all the holes in a grid. drop in the dowel pins using loctite. Apply some spray adhestive to the plate wipe off the dowels and add some sand. Try it with one dowel pin to see if it will works first.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3757
    How a about a flash of heat with oxy-accet flame.
    Might be expensive on gas. Very quick with a small cutting tip with 6 little flames.
    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. Three ways to fix things: The right way, the other way, and maybe your way, which is possibly a faster wrong way.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1955
    I wonder if there is a way to cut without getting the burr ?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    12177
    Quote Originally Posted by fizzissist View Post
    ...You could even be innovative and add an ID chamfer to the front, so you only had to orient and chamfer one end of the finished part.... ...
    Innovate a bit further and use a threading tool to put a chamfer inside where the parting tool comes in. We part large spacers off this way that do not need any deburring.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3757
    Run a boring bar up the hole and debur inside (both ends) before part off, or part off, deburring outside edge, and don't break through.
    Finish the cut with a boring bar and debur the inside of the next part in same operation.
    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. Three ways to fix things: The right way, the other way, and maybe your way, which is possibly a faster wrong way.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    4519
    Make a small pliers-like tool for holding the parts for deburring with the drill press method. I have deburred 1000's of of small parts this way.

    Take two 6" pieces of 3/4" square bar stock and attach a small piece of metal shipping strap to the ends with a couple of machine screws. Then bore a hole 5/8" deep near the strapped ends between the two for the OD of the part to be held.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    12177
    Quote Originally Posted by harryn View Post
    I wonder if there is a way to cut without getting the burr ?
    It is practically impossible to avoid some burr but if the relationship between and inside chamfering tool and the parting tool is set up correctly the burr is on the face, not the bore and can be polished of by rubbing on emery cloth on a flat surface.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    5003
    If you use only a part tool, then the outer Diameter shouldn't a problem. You can make a small fillet or chamfer with that tool. The first inner diameter can be deburred with a special made chamfer tool, that is holded in the same tool holder.
    Only the second chamfer inside is a problem. I would make a small channel in hich the parts are leaded. In the middle I make a small aircylinder that holds a part for the countersink tool. Than it works simple, push a part in position, clamp it, deburr it, unclamp it and so on.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3206
    Geof's idea of an ID threading tool is good, if you have the ability to add this op... You didn't say if this is a manual lathe or what.

    I've done this on cam-type automatics, and you can also do it on a CNC or manual if you've got the free station. Just take a threading tool and grind a flat not quite as wide as the cutoff blade, run it inside, and relieve the ID of the part so you end up with a chamfer on the inside on the part that's being cut off and the next part. You'll still have a slight cutoff burr on the part being cutoff, but you'll have that anyway. The sharper the cutoff (and on center), the less of a burr. If you've got an old boring bar you can grind the tip with 45deg angles and a flat to do the same thing.

    After many years of dealing with cutoff burrs, I will generally revert to using the top of the Kurt vise, and set stops on the quill so that the amount of travel is minimized.... set the handle so it's pointing slightly down so your arm doesn't fatigue....

    turn the speed down to around 2-300rpm, put the part on the top of the flat part of the vise, load and position with the left hand, run the quill with the right. You can even set up a spray mist (coolant turned off) to blow the chips off the vise. Believe me, I can knock out a batch of parts, deburred on both sides, accurate as the length of the parts, plenty quick and painlessly.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    5003
    Isn't the Kurt a bit oversized for this operation. I think a simple vise with a clamping lever is more than enough.

  14. #14
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    Apr 2006
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    Kurt oversized???

    Didn't think it was a problem... you could always grind it down if all that extra room on the top surface got in the way.

    I was talking about using not the clamping, or even the jaws,,,,, just the flat surface of the moving portion to support the parts, letting them float while you just position them with your fingers.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    492
    Quote Originally Posted by txcncman View Post
    Make a small pliers-like tool for holding the parts for deburring with the drill press method. I have deburred 1000's of of small parts this way.

    Take two 6" pieces of 3/4" square bar stock and attach a small piece of metal shipping strap to the ends with a couple of machine screws. Then bore a hole 5/8" deep near the strapped ends between the two for the OD of the part to be held.
    we used to do this all the time, take a dremil and grind out the points on the inside of pliers till it was a nice smooth surface, then use it for grabbing small round parts for deburring on the drill press. works like a champ till your hands cramp up

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    4519
    Quote Originally Posted by Shane123 View Post
    we used to do this all the time, take a dremil and grind out the points on the inside of pliers till it was a nice smooth surface, then use it for grabbing small round parts for deburring on the drill press. works like a champ till your hands cramp up
    Change hands (to someone else's). LOL

  17. #17
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    Jul 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by txcncman View Post
    Change hands (to someone else's). LOL

    you are exactly right. the joys of being a setup man

  18. #18
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    Jan 2006
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    2985
    Quote Originally Posted by Shane123 View Post
    you are exactly right. the joys of being a setup man
    Here is how you deburr them, see you tomorrow!

    Matt

  19. #19
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    Jul 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by keebler303 View Post
    Here is how you deburr them, see you tomorrow!

    Matt
    yup. its my job to make it stupid simple, its their job to be a laborer.

    at the same point tho, i try to make the machine do most of the work, but there is a tradeoff from machine time to profit time.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    These parts show flats. Ignore them. (I just threw in parts as an example). We do this with round parts every day.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 0625121601_0001.jpg   0625121605a.jpg  

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