Will get back to you as soon as my measuring equipment is cool enough to handle (have purged it with oxy flame to remove any contaminants). I would quench it all to speed up the process but I don't fancy picking the slips out of the oil vat.
DP
Will get back to you as soon as my measuring equipment is cool enough to handle (have purged it with oxy flame to remove any contaminants). I would quench it all to speed up the process but I don't fancy picking the slips out of the oil vat.
DP
My preference is not to use the lock on the mic and only use it when I absolutely need to , quite often the lock will knock the measurement out .0002 , I've seen it far too often with different mic's over the years while setting bore guages , Mitutoyo seems particularly bad for it
A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........
Or...you can just you your mics as paperweights to hold prints down so the shop fan does not blow them away and call the QC guy over to measure all of your parts for you.
on the 4th i used them to pop some caps off . they pop around .00472 , but you gotta spin it quick
nothing like a simple answer to a simple question now is there you ignorant know it all know nothing pos , it must have been directed towards someone . it seems to keep in track of worthless posts that you pollute these forums with , if it isn't your typical ignorant remarks , then it's to answer a question with a question rather than to offer a solution (which it's clear that your incapable of )
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A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........
I use my mic to set up my bore gage when I don’t have a ring gage close. I assemble gage blocks to the dimension needed, set the mic to the gage blocks, lock it and slide it off. Then use the mic to set the bore gage.
Jim
Good thinking JWH. I'm having difficulty wringing my slips together at the mo after purging them, even though I made sure I stoned them to remove any scale residue..
Thought it might be interesting to hear thoughts on internal mic measuring techniques. I personally have developed a method I call "score the bore". I basically set the mic to bottom limit (be sure to double check against a good external mic) and then pass it through the semi-finished bore. Don't worry the mic will centralize itself as you pull it through. It will leave a gouge. Continue machining until gouge is removed and voila, you have achieved size.
DP
Is the clamping pressure placed on the workpiece supposed to be so tight that it cannot move and the ratchet slips, or it is supposed to be just tight enough so the barrels of the mic make contact, or something else? Some of the posts here seem to indicate both.
Which is correct?
Thanks,
Nelson
South Bend Heavy 10L, Burke #4, Van Norman #12, South Drill Bend Press
A home machinist site you might like: www.Hobby-Machinist.com
If the barrels make contact then that MUST surely be over-tight as it means you have punched all the way through.
Since moving onto horizontals I have found an advantage over vertical setups. You can GUARANTEE consistent torque of your mics while working perpendicular to gravity - simply hang weights off the mic (This, in case you are unaware, is the purpose of the series of holes through the body of the mic) and record the point at which the mic starts to move. With practice you can set ANY size mic to slip at a certain point, and you are on the way towards ultimate accuracy.
DP
Hiiiyyyyy guys, having spent the last 50 years or so hacking metal, it occured to me that there must be hundreds if not thousands of parts in existance that I made that got measured by clamping, squeezing or sliding the mic' faces on the parts, and not one of them was ever returned as not to drawing or out of tolerance.
So who is right....nobody.
In a test that was carried out at random a number of tool makers were given a mic and asked to measure a gauge block pack without knowing the size of the blocks.
Needless to say they all got different results.
Personally I always use the mic barrel ratchet....you can't overtighten the ratchet or have it too loose......no two people have the same feel with a mic.
Incidently, when you are using a go/no go slip gauge, when is the part correct......when the gauge can be slid off the job easily at top limit or must it be firm on the job......same as for bottom limit.....tight or loose?
I would go further and state that it is impossible to measure a job to within .0005" (half a thou) without proper measuring equipment, and that ain't a hand held micrometer, and you can forget it too if the temperature of the day is either freezing cold or boiling hot.......that's precision B/S to impress the noobs.
Ian.
I was always told by inspection department that size-on-size won't go. You should always allow for this when tolerancing your gauge, or it could reject a good part.
My personal preference is to always tap with a hammer to make doubly sure. Extra skill and caution is required at this point though; gauge MUST be perfectly square before hammering commences.
DP