[Wallerawang]

So after the coolant is strained and drained it makes it's way down to my filter in the top of the coolant tank. The filter is built on a very sturdy plastic tray in which I drilled a few hundred holes. It has a 3 layer pond pump filter, level Green finest, level Black medium and level Blue the coarsest. These filters are to catch the finest crud that gets to the filter. I got a pack of 3 of each grade on Ebay and they are cleanable so I hope they last a few jobs. Before the coolant gets to the filters it must past through another chip strainer made from a bain-marie stainless steel tray and a few layers of bronze mesh. This is topped by another tray that I made out of the same perforated stainless steel sheet that I made the strainers from in the coolant tray. It's very easy to remove this from the coolant tank for cleaning.



Attachment 246228

Attachment 246230

Attachment 246232

Attachment 246234

Attachment 246236

Attachment 246238

Attachment 246240

Attachment 246242

Attachment 246244

Attachment 246246

Attachment 246248

[80gus]

Nice build thread Steve. its good to se another Aussie having a go.

[Wallerawang]

Attachment 246602
I've mounted the control enclosure onto 2 50mm x 5 angle iron mounts that have been welded to the machine frame.

Attachment 246604
The control enclosure - full view.

Attachment 246606
Air and power lines to the machine come down from the roof.

Attachment 246608
The main switch for the machine. This actually controls an nice 80amp contactor that turns everything on and off.

Attachment 246612
Auxiliary power supply - I may connect my control computer to this or anything that may need power such as a vacuum pump.

Attachment 246614Attachment 246616
Outside and inside views of the cooling air inlets which are placed at the bottom off the door. These air inlets are filtered 80mm computer air inlets.

Attachment 246618Attachment 246620
Outside and inside views of the cooling fans that are placed at the top of the door. As hot air rises, cool air comes in the bottom of the enclosure and passes over the electronics, then it drawn out of the enclosure by these fans. Again 80mm computer items that run off 12 volts dc.

Steve

[Wallerawang]

Attachment 246624
Here is the layout of the control system. All the high voltage (240 volt) wiring has been completed - all single phase.

Attachment 246626
This is the main live voltage distribution and the main contactor. In Australia live wiring is either Red or Brown.

Attachment 246628
The Neutral and Earth distribution - to Australian Standard. Black or Blue is Neutral and Yellow with a Green Stripe is our earth.

Attachment 246630
A large computer power supply for the 12 volt and 5 volt requirements.

Attachment 246632
Two Solid State Relays to control the Automatic Oiler and Coolant System.

Attachment 246634
This is the Variable Frequency Drive for the spindle motor.

Attachment 246636Attachment 246638
A and X axis Servo Drives.

Attachment 246640Attachment 246642
Y and Z axis Servo Drives.

Steve

[Wallerawang]

Attachment 246644
The Electronics Panel. Ethernet Smooth Stepper, 2 of Peter Homann's excellent break out boards - (I have 6 of these in use now). A small relay board to control the solid state relays for the coolant and oiler. At the top is another of Peter Homann's products - the VFD control board and next to that is 4 of KSI Labs Connector boards - for use with my optical sensors for the limit/home switches and spindle speed sensor.

Attachment 246646
These are the machines inputs panel. The Limits and Home switches connect here as well as the probe.

Attachment 246648
Limits Panel.

Attachment 246650
Probe Panel.

Attachment 246652
Inside the limits panel - not yet wired.

Attachment 246654
Inside the probe panel - wired


Steve

[80gus]

how do you find that auto oiler you purchased?

[Wallerawang]

how do you find that auto oiler you purchased?

Hi Gus
Do you mean performance wise - I have only bench tested it - it pumps oil great and has plenty of pressure - it's quiet and it seams well built. the electronics are neat and tidy and the whole item feels of good quality.

Or if you mean how do you find one - Search for Bijur in Ebay - the international listings - beware of the postage some of the guys want to charge - The pump was around $200 - $225 and some people wanted $250 to post it to me, look around and ask if they can do it for less - I got one from the US to Oz for about $50.00.

Steve

[cmurrayis]

Wow nice work..im in the middle of trying to convert my 45 to belt drive. Wish I had thr budget to do what you have...just wow

[Wallerawang]

Wow nice work..im in the middle of trying to convert my 45 to belt drive. Wish I had thr budget to do what you have...just wow

Hi Thanks for the nice words, all the parts I have purchased have been done over a long time - 3 or so years, so if you were to do it in one hit you would need a big budget but I have done this by saving about $40 to $50 a week over that time. This is not the cheapest hobby but it's a lot better than some.

Steve

[aarggh]

Hi Thanks for the nice words, all the parts I have purchased have been done over a long time - 3 or so years, so if you were to do it in one hit you would need a big budget but I have done this by saving about $40 to $50 a week over that time. This is not the cheapest hobby but it's a lot better than some.

Steve

Not only a great hobby Steve, but as my wife also says "it keeps you off the streets!"

cheers, Ian

[cmurrayis]

That's why my race car and mill are sitting side by side in the garage

[cmurrayis]

Have you done much research into balancers to reduce vibrations caused by the motor?

Looking at making a few for mine to reduce stalls.