What material can be used to replace the honeycomb material in the bottom of a laser cutter?
What material can be used to replace the honeycomb material in the bottom of a laser cutter?
I just received and am using this material.
MILL / SILVER Aluminum Eggcrate 1/2'' Cells 2' X 4' NEW | eBay
It comes in a 2' x 4' sheet and is easily cut with a pair of scissors.
Milt
The honey comb is made of steel. Why replacing it?
Melody
Im not replacing it I am enlargening it
Honey comb table is suitable for light materials engraving, thin materials cutting, strip table suiatbel for cutting
Lucy (Jinan Consure Electronic Technology Co.,Ltd) 0086-18254116182
Web:http://www.jncslaser.com Email: [email protected] Skype:consurelaser
I made a table from a large sheet of 6mm aluminum, on to which I have bolted a series of 1/2" aluminium right angle strips so that the work is supported by the edge of the right angles. They run in the direction so that the smoke can be sucked out at the back. I also added long M6 set screws at each corner that act as legs for the table so that it is height adjustable. it works very well.
Just an off-the-wall suggestion.
Has anyone tried using a car radiator as a combined support and water cooler ?
It might be possible to include a vacuum hold down facility through the mesh, but that might be a step too far ! (chair)
If you needed a larger area, perhaps two or more could be mounted side by side ?
John
It's like doing jigsaw puzzles in the dark.
Enjoy today's problems, for tomorrow's may be worse.
I would not recommend cutting directly on a honecomb table no matter what it is made of and for any type of cutting. You will get a lot of marks at the back of cut outs especialy if the table is dirty from residue already. You can get absolutely clean back side of cut out if wood is raised above the working table. Much better design is a knife table or even better that can get you a free of marks back side are knives with teeth or a table with sharp pins.
There should be as less contact between working table and the bottom of material while it still should keep it flat. If the laser beam hits that area there will be a mark at the bottom.
Small cells honeycomb tables have a lot of these contacts, regular knifes tables just touching it in thin vertical(or horizontal depending on its design) lines and the last two(tooth and pin tables) have tiny spots touching the bottom of material. There is a very little chance that laser hits these tiny spots and even if it does it will depend on a pin/tooth sharpness whether there will be any mark left.
I agree entirely with ozstockman. My knife edge table leaves thin lines on the back of the material, especially if it's dirty from previously cutting plywood. A pin table would be better. I've seen a DIY design for one of these using rivets.
I bought a roll of 3/4 inch bandsaw blade with a very wide teeth distance then made slits a bit thinner as the blade thickness with the laser and hamer the sawblades in the slits it works perfect.
it was abit tricky to get the right deepth with the cutting but overall very easy
greetings
waltfl
Hello, currently also solve a desk. We made a plate with screws that are sharp. It's better than honeycomb but the problem is that when blowing some parts carved lapse and shift to the lower area under the carved part yet and it will burn when cutting. A second problem is that some parts of the jam and laser cutting head at its crossing relax and lose focus. Area is still needed review and pause the. How this prevent any?
Can you use small 'tabs' to hold the cut parts in place, then cut through the 'tabs' by hand afterwards ?
Or, if you do many pieces the same, put solid support under each cut part to stop them falling downwards.
Sorry, but I can't understand the second problem. Can you try again with different words before translating into English ?
A photo would be good, and helps solve problems
Regards
John
It's like doing jigsaw puzzles in the dark.
Enjoy today's problems, for tomorrow's may be worse.
We cut an array of holes into a piece of plywood and then drove nails into each hole. The holes are a bit smaller than the nail so they are held tight. It looks just like the classic "bed of nails".
Matt
nails bed! Great!! useful but in low cost.
we can put hard material on it.
for the soft material, such as to do engraving or cutting on leather etc.
Is there any good ways?
JENNY
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