[tkalxx]

I would be very interested in hearing what the repeatability of those proximity switches. I have a set of cheaper prox. sensors from automation direct on my machine and I've found the repeatability to be around +/-0.002"..... not good if I want to shut the machine off, come back in the morning and retain my previous work offset.

[ChrisAttebery]

Looking good!

You'll be happy to know I've been using the same limit switches on my mill for the last 2 years without a single issue. They are awesome!

That IS good news. Thank you.

[CS900]

I would be very interested in hearing what the repeatability of those proximity switches. I have a set of cheaper prox. sensors from automation direct on my machine and I've found the repeatability to be around +/-0.002"..... not good if I want to shut the machine off, come back in the morning and retain my previous work offset.

They are advertised as 5 micron repeatability, but I'm sure the mechanics of my mill are far more limiting.

[ChrisAttebery]

Just being able to home to a reliable position at the resolution of the machine is a huge win. The switches I had before weren't repeatable, so every time I homed the machine I had to relocate the origin of my setup.

These switches are sealed and rated to IP65. I don't foresee any reliability issues with them.

They are advertised as 5 micron repeatability, but I'm sure the mechanics of my mill are far more limiting.

[ChrisAttebery]

Over the last couple days I finished up the controller, moved it back into place, and cleaned up all of the cabling between the machine and controller. I also mounted the NUC and bundled all of the PC wiring on the back of the monitor and got the monitor mounted to the enclosure.

I tuned the stepper ratios to less than .001" error over 5" on all three axis. I also set the backlash compensation for all three axis.

I installed ProbeApp V2 this morning and measured a few of my tools. According to ProbeApp my TLO setter is repeatable to .0001". I *think* that should be good enough.

I finished another little project this morning. I cut a 3/32" Kydex cover to fit over the leadscrew of my vise. I covered the back of the cover with sticky backed magnetic sheet so that I can stick it onto the vise and keep chips out of the leadscrew and vise body.

[ChrisAttebery]

I've been browsing eBay the last few days. Today this Renishaw CAT50 MP3 probe was posted for $150. The seller was a used tool store in Santa Cruz about 30 miles from my house. I drove over this afternoon and picked it up. While I was there I picked up a Jacobs branded R8 to JT33 arbor. I turned a 4" OD x .75" thick aluminum disk into a adapter. I still need to drill and tap the holes to mount the probe and I need to either drill a hole or turn a groove into the face of the adapter to clear the audio jack.

I ordered some chinese probe styli from eBay. Hopefully they show up in a reasonable time frame.

[CL_MotoTech]

I have an MP3 that i've literally never used. I never figured out how to adapt it to my G0704 considering that there is no way to true an MP3. I think I got it for a spot over $200 on eBay. With TTS, I find myself truing my probe fairly often...

[ChrisAttebery]

Pull the bottom cover off of it. Under the cover there are four M4 screws that are used to adjust it. The head has a ball seat so it can pivot around the center line.

[CL_MotoTech]

I'll have to look again, I took the thing apart and never found anything indicating adjustability. Since I had a working probe at the time, I just moved on.

[ChrisAttebery]

TLDR: The head I bought is dead. I bought a NIB one off eBay for a great price.


I was doing some reading about the Renishaw probes on CNCzone and found a thread about using them with the Tormach machines. Someone mentioned that they bought one that was DOA. I decided to test mine out and sure enough it's completely dead. The head measures in MegaOhms no matter which pins I measure against. Welllll $#!+!!!!! I'll talk to the guy I bought it from today. Hopefully he will let me return it. If not I'll be selling the toolholder and inductive pick up on eBay.

So I started looking for another one on eBay and found a brand new head with the inductive pick up and CAT40 taper for $400 with a warranty. That's more than I wanted to spend but I watched it anyway. I got an offer from the seller this morning for $300. I countered their offer at $250 and they accepted. So, I should have a working probe soon.

Another thing that they mentioned in that thread is that the probe really should be used with a probe interface. It is more accurate and will save wear on the contact points inside the head by shutting off the input voltage to the probe when it senses that the contacts are about to be broken. The MP3 will work with the MI5 and MI8 interface units. The MI8 are cheap. I picked one up for under $100.

So, I have a probe head, interface and probe tips all on the way. Hopefully I'll have everything in the next couple weeks.

In the meantime I think I'll finish wiring up my touch plate. I also picked up a light up tool offsetter for $5 the other day. One way or another I should be able to set my Z height now.

[ChrisAttebery]

I programmed a little demo part and made a video of the machine running it. I’m running 180IPM rapids right now. I was using 240IPM with the Mach3/SmoothStepper setup but I’m still getting used to the Acorn.

https://youtu.be/VeJQD0p6VM4

[ChrisAttebery]

Yesterday I received the Renishaw MI8 interface unit and a few goodies from Amazon. I mounted the MI8 in an aluminum amplifier enclosure. On the control side I mounted a GX4 connector to provide 24V, GND, probe detected and probe triggered. On the probe side I mounted a DIN5 connector to provide probe +/-, probe detect and GND. I also mounted a super bright LED on the probe side. I mounted this interface unit under the keyboard tray next to the enclosure door for easy access.

[ChrisAttebery]

I also finished up the probe to R8 adapter. I pressed the tapered SS insert out of the Renishaw inductive adapter. I bored a pocket for it in my adapter. I used a slip fit and Locktite 609 sleeve retainer to attach it. I wired up a DIN5 connector with probe detect, trigger +/-, and GND. The probe detect signal is tied directly to GND.








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[ChrisAttebery]

The LED on the interface lights up when the probe is plugged in. When the probe is tripped the LED turns off.





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[ChrisAttebery]

The bearings in my spindle started sounding rough again. I pulled them out and the grease was long gone. I guess I don't have a choice but to move to oil lubrication. I machine a fair amount of plywood and G10/FR4 fiberglass so I'd REALLY like to avoid having oil leak out the bottom of the spindle. The only solution I see is to add a seal to the bottom of the spindle. I started looking into replacing the spindle cap with a turned unit with a seal. It turns out that the cap has a 65x2mm thread. SKF makes a seal that has a 65.05mm OD (SKF 17144). At this point I think the simplest solution would be to bore the bottom of the quill to match the seal. I've actually been thinking about this for a while and I don't really see a downside.

[ChrisAttebery]

I guess I’m committed at this point. I bored the end of the quill to 64.5mm. The seals will be here tomorrow. Then I can finish the bore.

[CL_MotoTech]

That's a sweet idea! If it works I may copy you.

What's your plan for the top side? Some oil gets around the quill and is found at the bottom of the head on mine, but I'd think this could be solved by sealing the quill to the head with grease.

[ChrisAttebery]

That's a sweet idea! If it works I may copy you.

What's your plan for the top side? Some oil gets around the quill and is found at the bottom of the head on mine, but I'd think this could be solved by sealing the quill to the head with grease.

Thanks. I think it may not be perfect but it will be better than the cap that's there now. I'm just going to try it out and see how much leakage there is. If I have to I can use grease, RTV silicone or a gasket on the quill. It may be light enough that I just have to wipe the area down before I cut plywood.

I just got a call from the bearing shop that the seals are in.

[ChrisAttebery]

This new set of bearings sound terrible. I need to find a source for better bearings.

[CL_MotoTech]

What noises they making?