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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584

    Hiwin rail sizing

    I'm planning on upgrading my CNC router parts 48x48 to Hiwin rail.

    I picked up 4 like new AGW25CA bearing blocks that I will use for one axis.

    Being automation overstock doesn't have the same blocks I'm forced to look at other blocks and rails. And still stay within budget.

    After looking at it my 2 other choices are LG15 rail with LGW15CA or AG25 rail and AGW25SA blocks. From the looks of it the AG25 setup will only be slightly stronger then the LG15 setup but at an additional cost.
    Hiwin LGW linear bearings from Automation Overstock, LGW Hiwin linear guideway technical specifications
    Hiwin AGW linear bearings from Automation Overstock, AGW Hiwin linear guideway technical specifications

    That said the bearing blocks I picked up are going to be much stronger then either of the 2 I buy. My gut tells me to install the AG25 with the bearing blocks I have on my gantry (X axis) and pick up the LG15 setup for the Y axis. Is my thinking sound that the gantry bearing blocks are going to see more force due to cutting and Z axis hanging off of them?

    I plan on plating my 8020 with a huge chunk of 1/2 Mic 6 i picked up to provide a good surface for the rail to be mounted to.

    Any suggestions or comments?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    One issue with the 15's is that they use very small bolts to mount them, so they are a little more difficult to work with. But they are plenty strong enough.

    I'm using the LGW15's for my Z axis, and LGW20's for my X and Y axis. I'd recommend the LGW20's over the AGW25's. They're a little smaller, and much stronger. And the price is almost the same.
    They're still very massive, about double the size of the LGW15's. Here's a size comparison. The Z axis plate in the pic is about 5"x8".
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...3&d=1346588124
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    Think I may go that route. Your right them M4's would be a bugger to tap. Ouch this is getting expensive...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Quote Originally Posted by vtx1029 View Post
    Ouch this is getting expensive...
    You can say that again.

    So far, I've purchased
    8 - LGW15 blocks @ $24.70 each
    4 - LGR15 rails @ $28.60 each
    8 - LGW20 blocks @ $41.60 each
    2 - LGR20 rails @ $132.60 each

    I still need the LGR20 X axis rails, which are between $195 and $235 each, depending on the length I choose. I'll probably order them next week.

    With shipping, I'm currently at $985, and will finish at about $1500, for 51"x96"+ of travel, with two independent Z axis.
    If you compare quality alternatives, it's really not all that much more.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    394
    I spent $1700 for my rails and blocks. And that was with the $200 discount they gave me for being a student. I had a charge of almost $300 for the shipping. Anything over 96" is freight shipping. That's why my rails and blocks were alittle more than Ger21's.

    It is expensive.

    Ger21 is right. the LGW's are a better product than the AGW's.

    I went with AGW's because I wanted a preload of Z1 and they had the blocks I wanted in stock. At the time, they didn't have the LGW's in the block design I wanted. The AGW's will perform fine for me because I bought them oversize than what my machine would actually need (AGW30 for the rails, etc.)

    I went with the rails that have the holes drilled on the backside because I did not want any chance of dust or other materials gettings inside my blocks, causing pre-mature bearing failure. Sure, it may make it harder to install, but I think it will be better. I even order the extra scraper and seal kits for the bearing blocks.

    Spend the money. The rails/blocks are the way to go. They are solid and roll smooth.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I had a charge of almost $300 for the shipping.

    Looks like I won't be getting the 10' rails then
    He did tell me on the phone that he might be able to ship 9' fedex.
    But I'm definitely not going to pay $300 for $450 in rails.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post

    Looks like I won't be getting the 10' rails then
    He did tell me on the phone that he might be able to ship 9' fedex.
    But I'm definitely not going to pay $300 for $450 in rails.
    At that point I'd just go with butting up 2 rails. We have plenty of precision machines at work that have segmented rails and the work great if they are properly done.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    But how much does it cost to get them properly done? The ones I've gotten already are not clean enough to butt together.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    394
    Gerry, that was $300 for all the rails and blocks shipped to Portland, OR.

    I don't think yours will run near that. Less weight, and you're closer to Automation Overstock.

    I don't think you actually want to butt the rails together. I could see a whole lotta problems that could develope there. If they are just slightly off, even just a tiny tiny tiny bit, I could see pre-mature bearing failure happening as the block rides from one rail to the other.

    The racks on the other hand could be butt joined.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I've used a big router with butt jointed rails. But, they need to be done perfectly. On the machine I used, you couldn't see the seam.
    I'm fairly certain the machining required to butt joint them would cost more than the shipping.

    I was originally going to buy 2400mm rails. For $80 more, I can get 3000mm rails. If the shipping is under $75-100, I'll probably do it.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    1185
    You can put the seam at one end at the 72" mark or what ever the UPS range is and that that would leave only a foot or so at the far end of the table.

    Unless you always work with full sheets you will rarely use the whole table. If you stagger the two sides you will get less of a bump in one place.

    With a indicator I would think you could get a match within a couple thow fairly easy.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    Not sure what the proper finish for it would be. I would think a ground finish to some degree would be needed, but it isn't outlined very well in their manual other then the reference faces pointing the correct direction, P-value, and spacing the joint.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    Hey for anyone that has ordered R rail do you get the caps (rail bolt plugs) for free?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    Did either of you guys price out new stuff at all? Just wondering how the prices would compare. Meaning the HG or RG series.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    You don't get any caps (I didn't ask if they even have them?)

    New ones are about twice the price, but it depends on what you're comparing to.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1955
    Those are really good prices. Good quality, size 3 V bearings with the special modification to fit Pacific Bearing IVT rail are nearly $ 25 / each. Your complete block is 1/2 of the price of the needed 4 bearings to build up a carriage.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    FYI I talked with Kent at Automation overstock and he said they will include the screw caps at no charge just make a note in the checkout box when ordering. :cheers:

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