[victorofga]

very coool...

it will work on 1 or 2 part... but you need at least hss..
or carbide...

i fyou were work with oak.. that dulls even hss very quickly due the acid its contain...

i made some layout in ac express.. i going to send you.. to see i made.. but there are other ways too..

[TrickyCNC]

Ok, I get the pocketing. I was thinking that roughing could be done just by replicating the chosen XY vector a few times, and then progressively flattening them keeping the same reference position for the Y=0 of the material. The attached CorelDraw image shows the effect, with the bottom curve being the final desired shape. Run each as an XZ profile (mind the order!) for a progressive approach to the final shape.

Cheers!

Paul, there is a natural progression in my thought process and experimenting, that is becoming very like this image.

I tried the pocketing, and it's downfall is speed. The feed rate is the same (slow) on the non cutting part of the pocket toolpath, as on the cutting part.

so then I duplicated my outline with an offset equivalent to my pass depth of cut, and enough copies to get to the final size. the downfall of this way, is the work piece needs to have material clearance as the cutter gets closer to the finished outline , as you would manually, and as your drawing shows Basically, there needs to be clearance for the cutter, and the cutting forces are different depending on the amount of cutter edge being used , i.e. not just the point of the cutter. If you can see what I am trying to say ?

It's all the stuff that comes automatically when you are cutting manually, but the CNC will only do what it's told ! so you virtually have to make the part in your head, and then translate that into a toolpath.

if that doesn't make sense ... it's because I'm VERY tired !

Rich

[TrickyCNC]

very coool...

it will work on 1 or 2 part... but you need at least hss..
or carbide...

if you were work with oak.. that dulls even hss very quickly due the acid its contain...

i made some layout in ac express.. i going to send you.. to see i made.. but there are other ways too..

yes, it was just a quick and easy way to make the next experiment/test

For now, I will just sharpen with a file every few parts. (hmmm.... maybe I could make a CNC toolpath for sharpening ... )

I have a few cutting tools for the metal lathe, but this was easier and quicker than making a tool holder

[TrickyCNC]

rich


DCMT11T304

this is the carbide insert could work for you.... need toolholder yet..
type in google and choose one which has undercut..
.

Buy Indexable Carbide Inserts DCMT11T304-TP1500 Carbide Insert Seco 2600996 online from RS for next day delivery.

yes, I can buy them locally
I could also make a tool holder pretty easily too

Thanks

[TrickyCNC]

What you can try, and the way I understand some others have done it, is to create a new machine profile for your controller. You would make the direction parallel to the lathe attachment X and the Z axis becomes Y. Then in your CAM you can draw the outline of your part and add lines on both sides and the top to make a closed shape. Then you would use a raster toolpath with a stepover equivalent to the cut depth of your tool. You'd have to be able to start the tool from the "flat" part of the outline to the profile of your shape. Once that's done you can just make a new toolpath that follows the outline of your shape for the cleanup pass.

Another way is to draw in CAD or CAM your profile, select the line and offset it as much as you need so that your machine cuts all waste. Then draw a horizontal line to "cut" all the outlines so that they end at the top of your material. You then would just program toolpaths for each line consecutively.

Thanks Louie
There are soooo many ways to approach this ! that is half the problem.

I did 1st expect to have to make a new software controler setup file to swap axis and speeds etc, but so far, I think I won't have to.


the main problem, is the learning curve of how to cut on a lathe and translate that back to a toolpath. 1st rounding off, then roughing out, and leaving room to get the cutter in for the final pass. Even doing it manually, I would use several different gouges (rounding, scoring, straight cuts, curved edges etc. ) but for CNC it would be best (time wise) if I can just use the one cutter.

Rich

[louieatienza]

Thanks Louie
There are soooo many ways to approach this ! that is half the problem.

I did 1st expect to have to make a new software controler setup file to swap axis and speeds etc, but so far, I think I won't have to.


the main problem, is the learning curve of how to cut on a lathe and translate that back to a toolpath. 1st rounding off, then roughing out, and leaving room to get the cutter in for the final pass. Even doing it manually, I would use several different gouges (rounding, scoring, straight cuts, curved edges etc. ) but for CNC it would be best (time wise) if I can just use the one cutter.

Rich

Yes thinking about it now you could just do it with x, y, since the z would just position tthe cutter on center of the lathe.

Another cool way would be to use your spindle to hog the waste, then create an offset for your lathe tool to come in and do the finsh work. Might save you a bit of time. Then you can even mill features on the turned part as well. I do plan to make a rotary axis some time, so it's great to see some idea here...

[TrickyCNC]

Acceptable results now. Still some tweeking, and testing then I'll rebuild the final setup.

old Vid of the cCNC cutting a house number sign for a mate

Click to play


and one of the CNC lathe working

click to play


and a finished handle

[TrickyCNC]

I must say thanks to Viktor, for the time he has taken to make a tutorial on the way he does his cnc lathe work
I will give it a try soon.

[victorofga]

who said you cant turn with router :-))

i like that picture..

""sundiszno"""

the most important was you could imagine first and knew it somehow must work...

[jdebott1]

Hi Victor, I know this is an old thread, but I need some advice and help on stationary tool holder like yours.

fordav11 has helped me to understand that my ShopNotes conversion CNC lathe is really a XZC setup since I have "live tooling" with the Porter-Cable on my Z-Axis and a rotary-indexer C-axis (Y set to zero, and Y stepper moved to run the lathe stock.

I saw your post about your adding a two tool seat and Harbor Freight cutters to your lathe, and I am wondering if I could do the same with my ShopNotes CNC. Could you tell me where you got the two tool seat, and also if you are running the lathe chuck with a stepper or a servo? Or are you running it with the lathe motor or belt setup?

I don't have a motor or belt setup for my ShopNotes since it was a hand crank machine originally, but I'm wondering if I could attach a servo and run the stock at high enough speed to use stationary cutters like a regular wood lathe controlled by computer.

Thanks for your advice,

Joe DeBottis

[victorofga]

hi joe

thak you to interesting on this..

its a simple lathe, no anything modified.. put on routertable and simply plugged into outlet..

that two tool stuff I made of 1 inch thick aluminum.. it Is fitted onto the bushing that hold the routerspindle..
so any time can be removed simply..

I believe I have a drawing yet..

however it will be different for each machinery.. also tools are available 1/4 1/2 3/8 shank so too many variation..

this post about using a regular lathe and cutter moved by cnc control..
a smooth spindle that can be turned otherwise by hand this way easier due it will be identical all part too each other..

also the wrapping as is too slow for simple turning..

as I tried to analyze with wrapping you might encounter at least 10x more invested machining time.. a porch post will takes about 5-10 min this way... with wrapping form square column... it might takes an hour mightbe two..

lathe at harborfreight about 250 sometime.. very solid..
no any modification, due after turn I want to sand the part.. yet , it would worth to put on cnc control..
mightbe later..

[TrickyCNC]

lockdown reminiscing ! wondering if I should go back to making things after a couple of years off ?