[CNC-Joe]

I have a couple of 3-axis CNC Mills, a larger SuperMax YCM-30, and a Sherline CNC-Mill. I was thinking of converting the Sherline to a 3D printer (I don't use it much anymore - was a great starter machine for this hobby).

Can anyone point me in the right direction of converting the Mill into a 3D printer?

Thanks!

Joe

[gtxkid]

I was thinking of doing the same thing but then i was told it would not have enough resolution.

????

[gtxkid]

There is info in the new Make magazine on it.
Also buyer guide on them.

[109jb]

No reason it won't work and it has also already been done. There are threads on this topic already. Do a search.

[Dean448]

Try the attached. it runs for 8 min and consumes about 0.42 M of .3mm filiment
Zero on the table as the print builds from bottom to top.

X: Velocity is 10K and Accel is 4800
Y: Vel is 7K and Accel is 2000
Z: Vel is 350 and Accel is 100.

This is all in metric. I'm running a Nema 17 on X (which only pulls an extruder) but a Nema 23 on Y that pulls the entire X axis. So this machine is similar to a router however the table travels in Z only.

When printing I can tell when the machine looses steps by a shift in the pattern. Without printing I'm not sure how you can tell. I guess see if it homes in the same spot after the print.

Let me know what you find.

[compfranon]

No reason it won't work and it has also already been done. There are threads on this topic already. Do a search.

Started looking for information today, so far only limited success. I had hoped to find someone buying an extruder etc in kit form and adding it on to their cnc build, along with a 4th stepper driver.

Hopefully someone can link a good thread that covers the above.

[BloomingtonMike]

I have a thread going on this right now.

[crob09]

You'll need a controller for the extra axis, the G-code and M-Code generated are for an "E" axis.

For the Arduino you'll want some firmware for the extruder, found here http://reprap.org/wiki/Extruder_Controller_2.2

Hope it helps,

Rob

[Fastest1]

Been doing it for quite a while on a Sherline/A2ZCNC Mill. Just using Mach3 and a Gnexlab board for heat control in the hot end and heated bed.

[crob09]

Been doing it for quite a while on a Sherline/A2ZCNC Mill. Just using Mach3 and a Gnexlab board for heat control in the hot end and heated bed.

Sounds interesting How?

Is this with EMC, or do you have Mach-3?

Any drawings on wiring the resistor and thermistor?

[Fastest1]

Both wire in directly to the Gnexlab board. It monitors and regulates the temperatures (which are settable by the user) for the Hot End and the bed. I use Mach3.

[crob09]

So the PCB isn't stock with the milling center?
Are you referring to the 3D-Printer all-in-one software solution from SOC Robotics? http://www.soc-robotics.com/pdfs/Gen...e%20Manual.pdf

Can you still use the GenEx PCB to cut material too?

So I can use GenEx to print and mill things?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm intrigued, I did some searching and found some interesting stuff for setting up Mach-3 to print, someone uses the cooling pump command.

3D Printing on CNC using Mach3 by kai - Thingiverse

Both wire in directly to the Gnexlab board. It monitors and regulates the temperatures (which are settable by the user) for the Hot End and the bed. I use Mach3.

[Fastest1]

PCB? Are you referring to my heated bed? I simply have a piece of glass with a silicone mat type heater. If I were to do it again (which I will most likely) I would use the BerryBot/ Werner Berry bed idea. In fact I will use many of his techniques.

Mach will command any axis just as you want. I use the "A" axis for my extruder. When using Slic3r/KISSlicer or your favorite, it will have a setting that allows you to specify which axis is controlling the extruder. Once set up, just like any other axis you must calibrate it. In this case it is how much filament is extruded or pushed per unit. Simple measurement and an average diameter of your filament. I can install the original milling head as simple as loosening 1 set screw, remove, install whichever head (milling, 3D extruder, drag knife or laser if I had one. Also I use the relay output for my spindle to power my Gnexlab board. Standard M and G Codes. Print finishes, power is killed to all external devices and all axis return to their respective homes.

Here is a little of my Sherline running.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WV2xYQFvGLE

[crob09]

By PCB I'm referring to the controller, "GnexLAB"; I was thinking it was a controller board known as "GenX" from "Soc-Robotics", they build a controller for the 3D-printer and I was wondering if that's what you where using to cut and print with, but I don't think it is now.

So in theory I should be able to use "Slic3r" to create "G-code/ M-Code" and use "Mach-3" if configured properly to run the machine and print something?

How do you connect the thermistor and resistor again?

Also you state that you're using "A" axis as the extruder, how did you define the change in Slic3r?

PCB? Are you referring to my heated bed? I simply have a piece of glass with a silicone mat type heater. If I were to do it again (which I will most likely) I would use the BerryBot/ Werner Berry bed idea. In fact I will use many of his techniques.

Mach will command any axis just as you want. I use the "A" axis for my extruder. When using Slic3r/KISSlicer or your favorite, it will have a setting that allows you to specify which axis is controlling the extruder. Once set up, just like any other axis you must calibrate it. In this case it is how much filament is extruded or pushed per unit. Simple measurement and an average diameter of your filament. I can install the original milling head as simple as loosening 1 set screw, remove, install whichever head (milling, 3D extruder, drag knife or laser if I had one. Also I use the relay output for my spindle to power my Gnexlab board. Standard M and G Codes. Print finishes, power is killed to all external devices and all axis return to their respective homes.

Here is a little of my Sherline running.

RepStrap printing Rodin's Thinker - YouTube

[Fastest1]

Gnexlab is a heat control board built by a person named Nuri Erginer. He is a member here and might still offer the board. There are a few ways to do it, this is but one.

[Dean448]

Slic3r has an option to configure the output for Mach3. So you get XYZ and A. A is set to absolute so in the end the value of A is the amount of filiment you extruded (pulled off the coil). Good for telling how much filiment a print will consume. Just like the other axes you must tell mach3 how many steps per mm feed into the extruder. In the end you mark the filiment just above the extruder for say 100mm, tell Mach3 to advance A 100mm and make corrections until exactly 100mm is fed into the extruder.

[dick cnc]

I use Mach 3 basically everything would be the same as if you used a milling machine or any other three axis machine heated built platform is based on electric griddle with glass on top and kapton tape for slicing I use kisslicer but some of the other slicers will work if you want reasonable speed and acceleration I would suggest ballscrews at least .600 per revolution