Looks like its a 30 to 1 ratio :- monster torque
Looks like its a 30 to 1 ratio :- monster torque
Can't make out the part number...
csf-11-30-1u-cc-sp
I'd confirm alan_3301's number but I threw my back out this morning and can't get down the stairs to check it. I can't believe how smooth it is. I'm amazed at how fast and snappy it is on the rapids too with no stalling util I set it to some really unreasonable accel rates. I looked a long time for an affordable harmonic drive that was a direct mount to a stepper like this. I could have just gotten a planetary gear unit that would have done the same job, but I've heard such good things about the harmonic drives that I just kept looking until one popped up on ebay that fit the bill.
I'm using this for the rotation and slotting operation of kraft paper tubing for rocketry. The biggest issue I deal with is the fuzzy edges of the cut. I've tried every cutter imaginable, every toolpath imaginable, so if anyone has idea for me I'm all ears. I'm currently using an 1/8" diamond cut endmill, roughing with a -.006 offset with conventional milling, finish path with no offset and climb cutting. The finish path in the opposite direction cleans up a lot of it, but by no means is it perfect. I'm almost tempted to build a laser cutter for that process.
A particularly efficient layout with just a few percent waste. I'm getting better about developing products to get the most out of a sheet of expensive aircraft plywood.
looking good.. just got my spindle kit today but cant open until Tuesday as if wife see's it i'll be dead... well maybe not but i'll e in the dog box. (wedge)
by the way have you looked at mach-4??
been luck to be given a dvd of the vertec tutor's to go over by a good friend (they use it at work).
looks good so far.
one thing you x rail bearing supports are they solid ali?? and did you make both the bottom one tapered??
david
No, I'm never an early adopter of software. Maybe after it has been out for a few years. The only software I'd be curious about upgrading to would be a CAM program for constant toolpath engagement. Vectric wastes a lot of extra time in unnecessary moves. It's good software, but that's my biggest complaint.
I'm assuming you are talking about the bearing mounts where the instructions call for bending some aluminum flat-stock. Yes, I replaced all of the bent stuff with solid bar stock cut at an angle. I used 45 degrees to give more wrap around the pipe but I then had to use two nuts under the pipe for clearance. If I had to do it over, I'd just use 30 degrees.
That simple modification in itself made the machine go from totally flimsy to acceptably rigid. With the bent flat-stock mounts I could rip the gantry right off the rails by hand.
@devastator How do you manage temp shrinkage/expansion?
For background I've built a SolSylva 25"x25". The dimensional wood worked well enough to cut the Z-Axis gantry and spindle from 3/4" birch ply. Came out great. After putting the new axis on and tightening and aligning, started a carving job (the whole goal in this machine). It worked beautiful. Then holidays showed up and the machine sat for about 7 days. During that time the temp (and humidity) dropped, a lot. Temps about 30 degrees from 70, humidity not sure.
Anyway, went to start a new job and found that the X axis had at least 1/16" slop in it, bottom bearings not even in contact with the iron pipe. The Y axis won't even travel on rapids without stalling the servo. Completely unusable. I could go thru the tuning process again, but am worried about when temps come back up having to do it all over again.
FWIW, I expected some of this maintenance requirement, but not to this degree. Heating the garage is not an option
How about building an enclosed box around the whole unit and keep a 40 watt bulb,to keep the temp up.that way you don't have to keep heating a garage.
I haven't had any thermal issues that I've noticed. Certainly none where I had to adjust bearings. I've only adjusted the bearings once since I first built it after the pipes got some wear during break-in. Been fine since. It might be because I used some steel for reinforcement? Also I sealed all of the wood really good so that humidity problems would be lessened. I've heard about this design being prone to needing basically constant adjustment but that hasn't been my experience at all. I don't even give it a thought, I just pull up a file and hit start.
Forgive me if I've forgotten, but do you have a thread of your build I can look at?
I did use polyacrylic on all wood, I would not say it was really well sealed though. That's most likely my problem. I was just surprised by how much difference it made. I did manage to get the Z-axis gantry cut out of 3/4" birch ply before the weather changed (those pieces were then well sealed with paint and poly). They seem to be fairly immune to the temp changes, best I can tell. The holidays got in the way of doing the X-axis gantry (the 2 x 6 piece) and that is where I have the most movement. ie. I can take the router by the bit and move it up and down. And rock it right to left. The Y-axis is also a problem, but I was leaving that last to take care of.
All in all, the amount of change was the surprise, not the fact that it happened.
I have not replaced the outriggers on X yet, but I will. And no, I don't have a build thread, so no worries.
It is encouraging that you have shown that these issues can be dealt with. I don't want to have to adjust the machine every time I go to use it. Weekly/Monthly to be expected, but every day, not so much.
I haven't even had to adjust mine on a yearly basis. I check it occasionally but that's about it. I'm wondering if your issue is just the wood drying out in the cold dry winter air. My build took so long that the wood had a few years to stabilize before I needed to use it. I think my beams were glued up for a good year before I even bolted the machine together. And then about another year before I ran a job on it.
Today's project....Some drill fixtures for drilling holes in steel plate. Material thickness .50"
.25" dia. two flute bit, 40 IPM, .025" DOC, 40% stepover, 15K RPM
Dry cut (no lube)
As with most of my parts lately this was cut what I call "basement lights out" (machine unattended but within earshot).
Today's project: very small engraving on the Solsylva.
Here's what we went with on steel.
Rotary axis engraving on a 3" diameter aluminum tube.
looks cool bro,
sorry haven't done anything for awhile as summer and house diy stuff.