[JackWilliam]

I received a K40 laser cutter today through the post.

The instructions aren't very good and so I wanted to see if anyone can help.

I don't know if there is a trick to using the water pump correctly. I have been holding it in a bowl of water. Sometimes it pumps water and sometimes it doesn't. How can I set it up and leave it knowing that it will always pump the water through?

It looks like I may have to calibrate the mirrors so that everything lines up correctly. Is this the case?

Also, the machine came with 3 power adapters so that I can plug a foreign connector into the wall in the UK. None of them seem to work. Has anyone had this problem?

Thanks
Jack

[mondo50m]

I have the same machine that I converted to a DSP. I am in the U.S. Is it possible that the difference between 50Hz and 60Hz can be a problem? The U.S. runs on 110v, 60Hz. Mine ran just fine from the time I received it. As far as the water is concerned, do you have the line coming out of the adapter (large to small) that is on the pump attached? The water comes into the pump through the plastic mesh area and out through the adapter (mine was white). I do not know what the extra plastic tubing on the pump is for, I just left it attached and sunk the whole thing in the bucket of water. It is a submersible pump. As far as the power cord goes, you may have to find one that works for you. I ended up using an old computer power cord. As I say, mine is here in the U.S., you may require a completely different setup..
Any other questions, just ask.

Milt

[JackWilliam]

Hmm, that could be the problem with the power adapters, although they have included a UK adapter in the design so you would have thought...

So to confirm, with the pump, I can submerge it fully in water and there shouldn't be a problem? It says 'lifetech ipx8' on mine. Is that the same as yours?

Thanks
Jack

[Exsecratio]

It needs to be fully immersed or its going to burn out !

Anything past IPX7 rating is designed to take full immersion in water

best wishes

Dave

[Exsecratio]

PS: Chuck the Chinese power adaptors, get an IEC socket from Maplins or just use an old PC cable

cheers

Dave

[dan_hollig]

Also, the machine came with 3 power adapters so that I can plug a foreign connector into the wall in the UK. None of them seem to work. Has anyone had this problem?

I know this is probably too late to help you, but someone else may find it useful.

Yes. The power adapter/"surge protector" has a switch on each end marked lock/unlock. Unlock them and one of them should be a standard US 2 prong power plug. Their funny 3 prong adapter will fit into the face of the adapter. Push back in the other set of prongs that popped out and set both switches back to the Lock position. Plug in and fry your whole house to the ground because this doesn't have a ground prong. Follow the other guys advice and use a proper 3 prong plug from something like a PC power supply.

[cierva]

Hi Guys ...---... O.S.O.
I am in need of you help, like most I have purchased a Chinese laser cutter
In the beginning this worked great.
I build and fly model aircraft; short time back I was using the machine to cut out a new model it got half way through the pattern it was doing and it went bang..............?
On checking the power it had tripped off for the machine.
When I switched the machine back on there was no display, no movement in
The X & Y axis it was dead.
I contacted the manufacture explained what had happened, after many emails
They explained that what had happened was when it went bang ,
it has taken out the main control system also the laser power supply.

As the machine is about 3 years old they advised it was using the old style control
System and this had been upgraded within the last three years to a much better
System...........?

As this was very urgent I was decide that a new control system was needed , many more emails and a new control system came , as for the power supply I had a spare one , they sent a lot of information on fitting the new control system , the new control system has been fitted and the machine is again “ alive “ all function are working but one what ever I try : I can not get the laser to fire

I have to admit I am not very good with electrics but I can follow info when it offered as per the manufacture had offered as the machine again back on line

I have double checked all the wiring as per there instructions it . the display says
It is working but its not, also it will not fire manually, I am at a complete loss of what to do.
The model I was cutting was to be in completion this year and the parts are not possible to cut by hand.

Any help you guys can advise would be very gratefully received.

Alan

[Fred27]

I found that if my pump wasn't managing to push the water through I needed to move it below the height of the laser and then back beside it again. No idea why this helped but it did. Make sure you run it for a while to ensure any trapped air is pushed out. Some antifreeze in the water adds some colour and helps you see any bubbles in the glass tubes. It's a good idea in the UK at the moment if your laser is in a cold workshop.

A better pump and a flow and temperature sensor are on my to do list.

[Fred27]

Also, check all the wiring and screws in your laser. So many minor bits were bodged, loose or missing on mine. It's a great value piece of kit if you assume it's been assembled by a lazy idiot and look at it more as a DIY laser kit!

[Robin Hewitt]

I don't know if there is a trick to using the water pump correctly. I have been holding it in a bowl of water. Sometimes it pumps water and sometimes it doesn't. How can I set it up and leave it knowing that it will always pump the water through?

Hi Jack

I have the same machine and just destroyed a tube when I forgot to turn the pump on. I'm going to add a cup to catch the return water, a cup with a hole in the bottom. If the cup fills, the weight closes a switch and enables the laser PSU. If the water stops the cup empties and saves the tube. At least, that is the plan

Make sure the water is covering the impellor and the hose hasn't kinked, it goes in, up and across at either end so you have four 90 degree bends.

The plug adaptors do work, mine didn't work until I found I hadn't put the little switch back across to the "lock" position before whacking it in the socket.

I remade the tube mounts, even with the tractor inner tube padding the tube was a good 3mm below the mirror centre line.

best

Robin

[Fred27]

My coolant setup is one of those plastic containers for breakfast cereal. It's clear and deep enough to submerge the pump. The tubing goes through 2 holes in the lid and I have the return tube above the water level so I can see the water returning and I'm sure it's running.

I'm also in the UK and I bought some panel mount US mains sockets from Maplin (JK19V) which fit the supplied pump and exhaust fan plugs. I intend to put these on the back of the machine and wire to the main on/off switch so that if the laser is on then the water pump is on. This should prevent me forgetting to switch the pump on. (I may add a separate switch for the exhaust fan as I might not always want this on).

I was going to go with some IEC-320 kettle-style connectors (FT63T / FT64U) but the US ones were only 49p each so I thought that's be quicker and easier for now whilst I'm using the supplied pump and fan.

Later on I'll add a water flow and temperature sensor to shut down the laser if things aren't how they should be. Hopefully BEFORE I screw up and destroy a tube.

[herby08]

Hi there
acording to the manufacturer the return tube should allways in the water to prevent air bubbles going in the tube!! if the pump is not running and the return tube is above waterlevel there could be air back flowing in the tube what will destroy the tube.
I have the pump connected to the main switch like you wana do thats the right way.
greetings
waltfl

My coolant setup is one of those plastic containers for breakfast cereal. It's clear and deep enough to submerge the pump. The tubing goes through 2 holes in the lid and I have the return tube above the water level so I can see the water returning and I'm sure it's running.

I'm also in the UK and I bought some panel mount US mains sockets from Maplin (JK19V) which fit the supplied pump and exhaust fan plugs. I intend to put these on the back of the machine and wire to the main on/off switch so that if the laser is on then the water pump is on. This should prevent me forgetting to switch the pump on. (I may add a separate switch for the exhaust fan as I might not always want this on).

I was going to go with some IEC-320 kettle-style connectors (FT63T / FT64U) but the US ones were only 49p each so I thought that's be quicker and easier for now whilst I'm using the supplied pump and fan.

Later on I'll add a water flow and temperature sensor to shut down the laser if things aren't how they should be. Hopefully BEFORE I screw up and destroy a tube.

[Fred27]

Good point about bubbles getting back in. My reservoir sits beside the laser and is slightly above the tube, so air returning doesn't seem to be an issue. Being able to see the flow is useful so I'll stick with it for now. The warning is appreciated though.

I've also rotated my tube to get out any small trapped bubbles and so that any more will collect in the short bits of rubber tubing that joins parts of the laser rather than next to any glass.

[Robin Hewitt]

I did the same to get the bubbles out of the tube. It is so compact I simply tilted the whole danged thing so the water was flowing uphill and watched the bubbles rush to the outlet.

If the return tube to the tank dips down below water level in the tank then air can't seem to get passed it when you turn the pump off.

My latest K40 discovery was an 18mm lens sitting on top of a 12mm lens alignment recess. They don't do the machine any favours. I just ordered a 12mm ZnSe lens, £18 delivered on fleabay.

I have been persuaded to add a radiator and fan by tales of massive power loss if I let the coolant rise above 30C.

I am told I need "air assist" and I think it is probably a good thing, if only to stop vapourised crud condensing out on the lens.

I like the K40, everything is there and the price is right. You just have to find and replace all the bits that weren't there in the original design :cheers:

[Exsecratio]

the return tube is above water level there could be air back flowing in the tube

Herby is bang on, having the tube end below water level is CRITICAL, if the pump is switched off water will continue to flow out under force of gravity and you end up with a bubble in the mirror chamber.(syphon effect)

Water flowing alone isn't enough to protect the tube, there must be no bubbles in the mirror end of the tube or it will still crack it.

best wishes

Dave

[Philipf]

My coolant setup is one of those plastic containers for breakfast cereal. It's clear and deep enough to submerge the pump. The tubing goes through 2 holes in the lid and I have the return tube above the water level so I can see the water returning and I'm sure it's running.

I'm also in the UK and I bought some panel mount US mains sockets from Maplin (JK19V) which fit the supplied pump and exhaust fan plugs. I intend to put these on the back of the machine and wire to the main on/off switch so that if the laser is on then the water pump is on. This should prevent me forgetting to switch the pump on. (I may add a separate switch for the exhaust fan as I might not always want this on).

I was going to go with some IEC-320 kettle-style connectors (FT63T / FT64U) but the US ones were only 49p each so I thought that's be quicker and easier for now whilst I'm using the supplied pump and fan.

Later on I'll add a water flow and temperature sensor to shut down the laser if things aren't how they should be. Hopefully BEFORE I screw up and destroy a tube.

I use a cereal tub too, clear with a green lid from poundland

I use a flow switch for checking the water is going where it should:
FS-10 - GENTECH INTERNATIONAL - FLOW SWITCH, 15MM, 0.5L/MIN, 10BAR | Farnell United Kingdom

[Robin Hewitt]

I use a flow switch for checking the water is going where it should:

I never knew such things existed by Jingo.

That makes no-flow no-laser totally simple

[Robin Hewitt]

having the tube end below water level is CRITICAL, if the pump is switched off water will continue to flow out under force of gravity and you end up with a bubble in the mirror chamber.(syphon effect)

Not neccesarily so on the K40

The water pipe inlet and outlet in the case hold the pipes down near the table top. So long as you have more than 33mm of water in the tank the air cannot pass.

[jimsbox]

Hi Guys ...---... O.S.O.
I am in need of you help, like most I have purchased a Chinese laser cutter
In the beginning this worked great.
I build and fly model aircraft; short time back I was using the machine to cut out a new model it got half way through the pattern it was doing and it went bang..............?
On checking the power it had tripped off for the machine.
When I switched the machine back on there was no display, no movement in
The X & Y axis it was dead.
I contacted the manufacture explained what had happened, after many emails
They explained that what had happened was when it went bang ,
it has taken out the main control system also the laser power supply.

As the machine is about 3 years old they advised it was using the old style control
System and this had been upgraded within the last three years to a much better
System...........?

As this was very urgent I was decide that a new control system was needed , many more emails and a new control system came , as for the power supply I had a spare one , they sent a lot of information on fitting the new control system , the new control system has been fitted and the machine is again “ alive “ all function are working but one what ever I try : I can not get the laser to fire

I have to admit I am not very good with electrics but I can follow info when it offered as per the manufacture had offered as the machine again back on line

I have double checked all the wiring as per there instructions it . the display says
It is working but its not, also it will not fire manually, I am at a complete loss of what to do.
The model I was cutting was to be in completion this year and the parts are not possible to cut by hand.

Any help you guys can advise would be very gratefully received.

Alan

I don't know if you still are having the problem but since you replaced so much is it possible you do not have the WP (water protection) pin on the laser power supply jumpered to ground, if it isn't the laser will not fire.

[herby08]

hi there
look at your tube that:
1. the wires all connected right
2. the cooling chambers and the lens on the exit site are still there and not cracked or falling off ( happens to many people as the tube was overheated due to luck of cooling)
3. the bridge between the WP and G connection is there.
do you have the original laser powersupply?? post a picture.

I hope this helps if you need more assistance send me a email to my PM at [email protected]
greetings
waltfl