[brcguy]

I have a 35" x 55" Transon CNC 150 watt laser. Bought it in May. Have never quite gotten the mirrors/beam path dialed in.

A few questions -

Anyone have suggestions for better/upgrade mirror carriages? These are nicer than the ones on my Full Spectrum 60, but I would still like something nicer. Perhaps mirrors that hold their alignment longer? Maybe easier to adjust? I don't know what's out there...

Any advice beyond patience and steadfast resolve in getting this thing aligned?

I find that there is a small difference between cutting through 1/4" pine cleanly and setting it on fire, and that difference changes on different parts of the table (and throughout the day).

Anyone local to Austin TX? I'd pay you to come help if you had the right skills....

[pontiacg5]

My full spectrum 80W pro has pretty decent mirror mounts. I haven't needed to play with them in at least a month, less time if I only use the upper square foot or so of the bed. I don't think you really need better mounts if the ones you have are already better than FSL's stuff.

You might check where you have the machine sitting. Try to keep it super level and rigid. I get away with keeping mine on wheels since it's on a concrete floor, but if you were on a wavy or cracked floor moving the machine around would probably flex it enough to make alignment a chore.

What process are you using to line it up? I like Rabbit Laser USA's method myself.

It's going to take time and patience the first time. I got my first two mirrors lined up then figured out that the second mirror was mounted waay too far out, I had to move it in closer to the Y carriage to even have a chance at ever getting the entire bed aligned properly. After I moved that mirror I had to start all over from the first mirror. That process repeated itself a few times, it sucks!!

Once it's done properly the first time keeping it in alignment is a lot easier.

As far as the bed being different heights, I used a travel dial indicator stuck to the laser head with a sheet of aluminum across the bed. A few corners of my table were lower than the others skewing it all out of level. Loosening the Z height belt and skipping a few teeth on individual screws is all you need to do to fix that.

[brcguy]

Thanks, I am on a concrete/tile floor.

I've done the work of making sure the mirrors are all in the same plane (s) and it should be all level and nice.

My alignment procedure is to replace the each mirror with an acrylic target (cut on the laser with cross-hairs engraved on it) and use the laser to fire a mark to see where it is hitting. I go through a lot of targets, but it seems to work.

My Full Spectrum has a rigid third mirror, this one does not, and I am not sure of the best way to align the last mirror into the lens. For instance, where do I put the cross-hair? Do I use the lens or not?

I have used the levelling trick on my Full Spectrum, but the Transon laser has a fixed height table and an adjustable height lens. I will try your trick of gauging the surface and see what I get. I will probably have to shim the table to get it level if it is not already.

Thanks for the reply. I am deep in production mode right now and need all the capacity I can get.

[pontiacg5]

Thanks, I am on a concrete/tile floor.

I've done the work of making sure the mirrors are all in the same plane (s) and it should be all level and nice.

My alignment procedure is to replace the each mirror with an acrylic target (cut on the laser with cross-hairs engraved on it) and use the laser to fire a mark to see where it is hitting. I go through a lot of targets, but it seems to work.

My Full Spectrum has a rigid third mirror, this one does not, and I am not sure of the best way to align the last mirror into the lens. For instance, where do I put the cross-hair? Do I use the lens or not?

I have used the levelling trick on my Full Spectrum, but the Transon laser has a fixed height table and an adjustable height lens. I will try your trick of gauging the surface and see what I get. I will probably have to shim the table to get it level if it is not already.

Thanks for the reply. I am deep in production mode right now and need all the capacity I can get.

Concrete is by far the best to have the laser on, if your machine is up on casters the clunks from the grout in the tile might be messing your alignment up if you move it a lot. I have heard of guys putting a bit of fingernail polish on the threads of mirror adjusters to sort of locktite them in place. I've never had to do so personally, but it might help you out a bit. Don't ever use super glue or other nasty stuff near laser optics, that stuff outgasses as it dries and spreads everywhere!

If the targets are working good for you I wouldn't change, but your probably getting a lot of room for error if you have to take the acrylic target out and replace it with the mirror after you have it adjusted. I use envelope labels stuck over the top of the mirror, I'll burn a spot then stick another label over the top of the burned spot. You can see the previously burned spot through the next new label which helps a lot.

My FSL has an adjustable third mirror, assuming you are counting the one closest to the laser tube as the first mirror. It's adjustment is important, but less so than the other two. Basically, you want to hit just high of the exact center of that mirror, so adjust the second mirror till you get it there. I use my shipping labels stuck over the hole on the cutting head for this. You may need to physically move the mirror to get the beam to hit the last mirror in the best spot. If you don't get the beam into the cutting head just right you'll never be able to adjust the last mirror enough to correct it, so take your time here.

Then, using a piece of acrylic as a test piece, you adjust the last mirror till the beam is hitting the table perfectly perpendicular in X and Y. Set the focal point on the acrylic and fire it once. Next, look through the edge of the acrylic, you'll be able to see if the beam is leaving the last mirror at an odd angle because it will burn the acrylic at the same angle. Ticker acrylic is better, you can see what's going on easier that way. You'll have to do this over and over again to get it perfect.

If you only engrave then you wont have a problem without adjusting the last mirror. But, if you cut thicker stuff you'll have a lot of problems with taper if you don't adjust it.

Good luck with your production! Let me know if you have any more questions and I'll try to help.