[Drools]

What are you guys using to sand the hard to get at spots?
Dremel attachments?

[DonFrambach]

I do most of my detail sanding by hand. Folded sandpaper works well in many cases but I also like to use commercial sanding sticks.

Here's a link: Buy 24 Piece Standard Kit Sanding Sticks at Woodcraft

Here's a photo:

[Drools]

thanks for the reply, I didn't know that tool existed. Sanding Maple in the small spots is just a PITA and my fingers cramp up after 15 minutes or so.

[DonFrambach]

Sanding Maple in the small spots is just a PITA and my fingers cramp up after 15 minutes or so.

I hate sanding too, so I take frequent breaks where I do more interesting things!

[louieatienza]

They make a flap wheel in different grits that work great for sanding detailed parts. The wheel is made of multiple pieces of sandpaper that are slitted to conform to most any shape. For hand sanding ScotchBrite or other foam pads work well. Even sheetrock sanding sponges can work.

[jm82792]

Small sanding mops might work I have yet to buy one though.
2" MINI MOP KIT | Klingspor's Woodworking Shop
I use regular 220 paper, then 320 by hand then the 500 grit by norton that's rather cheap in ebay.
I'm going to try the lower grits and see if they work well enough.. The 500 or so grit one works really well and my lacquer work comes out better then before.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150920698841

Also Scotchbrite red and grey pads work for the finer grits but can cause contamination if reused too much, well from my minimal experience they can.

[G. Hoffman]

I use THESE quite a lot, and like them. I also use a Fein pneumatic detail sander when it fits, which has a high enough oscillation speed the marks aren't too bad. I use THESE more than anything for hand sanding contours. My friend Frank Ford has a great article about sanding blocks HERE, which may be helpful. A good block makes a world of difference. I have a strong preference for garnet sand paper, too.

But if sanding is taking too long, you are probably starting with too fine a grit of paper. Go down a grit or two until the grit can quickly remove the machining marks, and then be very careful to always sand with the grain. All the usual advice for sanding still applies to detail work - its just harder to do.

And of course, since you are asking on a CNC board, you could try altering your finish passes when machining to reduce tool marks. I'm just starting to play around with this one, but have found that, using a 1/2" four-flute end mill gets me a finish that I barely have to touch it with sandpaper. And my standards for sanding are obsessive to the point of a sickness. This of course depends on the quality of your spindle as well.

Oh, and if this is wood, and you are finishing it, don't go too fine. Every finish manufacturer on the planet tells you not to sand raw wood any finer than 220, or you can cause problems with finish adhesion. Myself, sanding for Nitrocellulose lacquer, I sand to 180, raise the grain, and then sand with 220 to get rid of the hairiness. ALWAYS sanding with the grain, of course.


Gabriel