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View Poll Results: If you only have an option of fitting one machine to the gantry, what would it be?

Voters
417. You may not vote on this poll
  • Router

    334 80.10%
  • Dremel

    41 9.83%
  • Something else (please specify what)

    42 10.07%
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    462

    Router or dremel?

    Ok, I have a budget and it'll only stretch to ONE machine.

    What do I buy? A router or a dremel-type tool? Any other ideas?

    I'd want to be able to do PCBs as well as wood (for redesigning and reworking my machine). Working with aluminium is similar to wood so I guess the same machine would cover both?

    Is 1000W enough? Variable speed is a must I guess?


    If the answer is "router" then what bits can be used with routers? Are they specific to routers?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    313
    Personally I'd go with a variable speed router and not cut too tight on the budget corner. If you plan to ever do any heavy cutting at all the larger spindle and bearings of the router will be a big plus. Paying a bit more to get one with collet capacity larger than the 1/4" on the cheapies will also help by making possible use of larger tooling such as fly cutters.



    Tiger

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    462
    I was thinking of going for the best machine my budget would stretch to so I don't have to buy a new one a few months down then line when it starts showing its weaknesses. So that's why only one is an option. I'd rather have one proper machine than two cheapies.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    430
    Dremel's are absolutely not the way to go. They are weak, and have lots of play and run-out in the spindle shaft.
    Probably the best way to go is the RotoZip by Bosch. They have a variable speed model, and the quality of the new Bosch ones is very good indeed.
    It sounds like you are going for a smallish router, so the larger 1/2" collet machines would be too big and heavy for your application anyway.
    There are any number of bits you can use in your router. The most common one you will likely use on wood is a 1/4" spiral up-cutting router bit, also known as an endmill. The upwards spiral draws the cut chips up and out of the cut preventing clogging of your bit and burning of the material you are cutting.
    For your PCB's, you will likely go with a smaller diameter tool, 1/8" or even 1/16" and smaller of course for drilling the holes.
    Colin

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    387
    I wonder if my machine will handle a router with a 1/2" spindle ? Hopefully!
    Those new Bosch Cobas ( 1 hp trimrouter) look pretty cool.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Quote Originally Posted by Ed_R
    I wonder if my machine will handle a router with a 1/2" spindle ? Hopefully!
    Those new Bosch Cobas ( 1 hp trimrouter) look pretty cool.
    You mean the Colt?
    Gerry

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    462
    Ok I bought a router. It has 6 and 8mm collets. And I think when the time comes to have something thicker than 8mm it shouldn't be a big problem to make new collets or even fit a drill chuck to it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    387
    yeah that's it, the Colt.

  9. #9

    Cool I decided to use a Makita Die Grinder

    When i designed my router, I decided to use a Makita Die Grinder #906H, 30,000 RPM dual bearing spindle, easy to repair, made from solit cast aluminum, not plastic! But most of all is was very slender, at 2.8" diameter!

    I took the spindle nose casting off and used my lathe to turn it round, to make it easier to clamp on to!

    The spindle has a maximum of 1/4" dimeter collet, but I made a reducer for 3/16" and 1/8" shank endmills and bits!

    Dremel's are really nice, and not as noisy as my die grinder, but the ergonomic handle designs are impossible to clamp on to!

    In my opinion!
    Eric
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    96
    What a sweet looking machine!
    The widgetmaster rocks!

    1 set of plans to go, please.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    42
    Lots of recomendations. Could I add another criteria.

    NOISE!

    If you have a super silent spindle, 500w-1000w tell me about it.

    That way I could run long long jobs unattended through the night without upseting the locals.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    162
    I skipped to the end of this...but did anyone mention the 2 1/4 HP Hitachi M12VC?

    Easy to clamp, built in 8-25K speed control, maintains constant torque at low RPMS, and for me, most of all well balanced, quiet, and tight.

    I love this router....1/2 and 1/4 collets, $10 adapter allows me to use the smallest of bits with an 1/8" shank.

    I milled 3/4" Precision plate T6061 24"x24" for 22 hours straight. No problems.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    162
    Davidh,

    I used to have a water cooled 750W High frequency Westwind air bearing spindle, 1/8 pnuematic collet, and 125,000 RPM max.

    At 75,000 RPM, there was NO vibration, and could not hear it, unless I turned off my room A/C.

    I used it for HSM on aluminum. I felt like I had a piece of NASA, I miss it.

    I sold it.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by widgitmaster View Post
    Dremel's are really nice, and not as noisy as my die grinder, but the ergonomic handle designs are impossible to clamp on to!

    In my opinion!
    Eric
    hmm, i'd have to disagree on that, but also agree. The Dremel 4000 is a very good dremel for mount ability. I use it more my super tiny desktop 3d mini mill with 6" travels.

    I agree that you shouldnt use a dremel for big machines , but if travel is less than or equal to 12", then they're good. (my opinion).

    One shame is the max shaft of 1/8". I was hoping to lathe down some bigger bits to have the smaller shaft

    ---------\\\\\\\\\\__________
    3/8"----- \\\\\\\\\\_________| <----1/8"
    ----------\\\\\\\\\\

    But i dont think turning solid carbine on a mini lathe will be that successfull.

    sorry for off topic(chair)
    A machine is only as accurate as the tools used to build it. "CNC = Computer Numeric Control - or on some days - CNC = Can Not Control" Imagineering

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    2849
    A cartridge spindle...

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    387
    Just bought the COlt, it bolts up fine to the carriage and its' got a variable speed. I guess I am limiting myself to 1/4 inch shafts and reducers but since my machine isn't all that fast anyway I don't think I'll be spinning many big bits.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    302
    The best inexpensive spindle I've found is the er16 spindle made by Sherline. I bought two and both had less than .0005 runout 1/2" from the collet end. Certainly these are not for hard work but if you have enough time and are looking strictly for precision, it can't be beat for the price. Cheap speed would be a mini mill head from littlemachineshop.com with some work. Never a dremel.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    211
    My two cents:

    Definitely a router.

    Look at them with an eye to how easy is it to change tools? One wrench with a spindle lock or two wrenches?

    Suggest one that accepts and has available both 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets. The 1/2 shanks are more rigid, obviously. Also, you may want to use the router outside of the machine, if you want to run panel raising bits, cope and stick, etc, you will only find those bits in 1/2 shank.

    Noise is an issue too, right now I have 6 Porter Cables around here. I heard the Bosch whispering at the woodworkers show last weekend, gonna get me one of those as soon as practical.

    I would NOT get a roto zip type tool. My experience with them has been pitiful. First off, no really great way to grip them securely. Secondly, they just feel cheap.

    Good Luck!

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    387
    Does the er16 spndel do well with router bits? I'm cutting wood almost exclusively and that usually requires a higher rpm due to the bit geometry.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    302
    Slow would be the keyword. You would have to lessen the preload and the precision a little, but up to a 3/8" shaft router bits could be used at 10k. I think the pcb's would look tighter with the er16 and precision cutting of aluminum would be best served with the Sherline.

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