[MFchief]

Hi All,

Looking for some advise on how to treat anodized aluminum after engraving it. Planing to put some personalized stuff on some anodized gun lower receiver's, but kind of at a loss as to what to do to treat the freshly exposed bare aluminum.

Is the a simple process to color it, do you, or can you, re-anodize with a slightly different color? Maybe some dye process?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Terry

[TiagoSantos]

Take a look at this, I think he talks about his process for anodizing the engraving a different color.

Knifemaking Tuesdays Week 49 - Eagle Scout engraving - YouTube

[BAMCNC.COM]

That's Titanium... Not the same. I also have videos on Anodized Titanium, it very easy compared to Aluminum...

[TiagoSantos]

oops! You're right.

[al010964]

Hi Terry,

Can't vouch for this company but I will give them a go when I have the requirement.

I believe they also sell a DVD.

http://www.caswellplating.com.au/anodizing.html

Cheers,
Adrian

[Wog]

I checked with my anodizer today. He said it will ruin the original anodizing when going through the stripping/cleaning process the second time.
Better off with a paint stick or wax or ? to fill in the engraving.

[Winks]

I have seen gunshops sell a cold bluing/black solution for AL. Crappy finish over large areas but it might work nicely in engraving.

[menzzer37]

You an try Aluma-black by birchwood casey. We use it on lowers sometimes to touch up spot defects.

[MFchief]

Guys, thanks for all the replies, it sounds like no easy, straight forward answer. I will check out the Aluma-black. My biggest concern has been not messing up the finish outside the engraving. I'd rather leave it unfinished than screw up the anodizing that's already in place.

Terry

[bill south]

You might try plain ole model paint. Apply by using a toothpick into the lettering, let it partially dry then wipe the surface only with a cloth dipped in paint thinner. It will wipe off the paint on the surface and not disturb the inlay without damaging the anodizing. Oh yeah, try it on scrap first. I've used this technique when finishing FAL battle rifles.
Hope this helps.
Bill

[MichaelHenry]

Is engraving wax or enamel an option? It can be rubbed into an engraving to fill in the engraved depressions. The residue on the surface is just wiped off with a Kimwipe or cloth towel.

Engravograph sells both but makes finding it on their web site a PITA. Search for enamel or Engravocolor in their on-line catalog and that will turn up the correct page:

Engraving Materials Catalog Gravograph USA

Mike

[Bryan Turner]

I do dye work regularly and have done some simple anodizing so I'm familiar with the process.

I believe the following technique would work:
- Cut the part without the engraving
- Anodize, dye, and seal the outside
- Coat the part with a resist (enamel, wax, rubber cement, etc)
- Engrave *through* the resist, cutting into the bare metal
- Prep, anodize, dye, and seal the part (which will hopefully only anodize the engraving)
- Strip the resist

The efficacy of this technique would be workholding without marring the resist, engraving through the resist without chipping the resist, getting a 'clean' cut through the resist without smearing it into the engraving, and selecting a resist which will work with the rest of your anodizing process (ie: can't use wax if you degrease with a hot bath, etc). Also unsure if the anodizing process will 'burn through' the resist.

On second thought reversing the process may be better:
- Cut part *with* engraving
- Anodize & dye the part in the color you want the engraving to be
- Resist the engraving (ie: rub wax into the engraving?)
- De-anodize, bleach, and re-dye in the outer color
- Seal
- Strip resist

This variation has the issue of either very precisely placing the resist into the engraving, or of choosing a resist that can be applied heavily to fill the engraving, then rubbed off the raised surface without clogging the pores in the metal. Perhaps an acrylic paint? I've never tried removing the resist and re-dying, so I don't know if it works.

--Bryan

[MFchief]

Since I'm not currently doing any anodizing, I hesitate to do the start up work and expense just for this operation. The enamel or Engravocolor option looks like it has potential, I'm going to give that a try, I believe, the only question will be how permanent the coloring will be.

Thanks again for all the help

Terry

[twocik]

Sorry once you anodize and seal the part, it's done (in so many words). Depending on the parts tolerance you could re-anodize... I'd try using some sort of paint (nail polish, car paint, etc..) like the golf club makers use. The paint from what a friend has told me last a very long time. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[underthetire]

You could always use engravers paint, or engravers etch. PAINT FILL PRODUCTS : Quality One Engravers | , Quality Engraving Supplies, Service, and Repair sells the stuff. The etch turns it black, the paint is basically slow drying thick enamel.

[SquibLoad]

I've had good luck with this gold inlay for gunsmiths.

BONANZA BRUSHING INLAY | Brownells

Works best if you apply an adhesive film first, engrave, fill, and then remove adhesive. Lessens overrun and makes cleanup much easier.

Easy to use and looks great.
I would think you could use the base liquid and any filler or pigment you'd like for different color effects.
Various dyes are available in powder form from most woodworkers suppliers.

Really dresses up my firearms, too!

[MFchief]

Guys, thanks again for the great suggestions!

A question though about the paint fill products and the Brownells gold fills. Do they wipe off from the anodized part completely?
As I said earlier, my biggest fear in trying to do this is to leave a big smear on the anodized finish around the engraving.

Terry

[SquibLoad]

Guys, thanks again for the great suggestions!

A question though about the paint fill products and the Brownells gold fills. Do they wipe off from the anodized part completely?
As I said earlier, my biggest fear in trying to do this is to leave a big smear on the anodized finish around the engraving.

Terry

Terry,
The cleaner supplied works pretty well for cleaning things up on the surface. Since the engraving is below the surrounding surface, it is left intact when wiping for cleanup. I'd still suggest the adhesive mask, though. Much less to clean up, and just a quick swipe with a swab will get it.

Of course, I'd experiment with some scraps before using on a 'real' part. I think you'll find it works well. I had the same concerns when doing my first firearms with it. It wouldn't do to have 'skid marks' of gold on a nice old N-frame Smith & Wesson..... I experimented on a garden-variety Buckmark first. Worked great.

[MFchief]

Thanks SquibLoad, I'm going to give it a go. Been a little busy today, just picked up an X frame this afternoon!

Terry

[SquibLoad]

just picked up an X frame this afternoon!
Terry

Congrats! I'm surprised you can find anything is stock these days.

X-frame - Yikes! That makes my wrist hurt just thinking about it!
I'm such a wimp when it comes to recoil. I load my own 'bunny pharte' target loads for 38/357 and 44sp; a bit of Unique and some semi-wadcutters.