[OHLEMANNR]

I tried this on HSM and got nothing. I think they are having trouble finding film for their Speed Graphic's. Anyway, I have a Rong Fu RF-45 that I bought used a few years ago. The previous owner included the stand he'd made from 4x6 lumber and a butcher block top. It has worked well but it is time for me to build something that will work a little better. I've got a basic idea of what I think I want but you guys come up with the most ingenious stuff. Only reason I didn't ask here first is because the machine is not CNC.

I think it could be very useful to have a collection of base/stand designs with a short narrative on why you built it the way you did.

Here's my existing stand that needs to be replaced. It actually absorbs vibration very nicely but, doesn't do much else well (like leveling).



Bob

[rwskinner]

I don't have any good pictures but here are a few. It's changed a lot since I took these.

4x4 legs
2x6 rect. tubing frame and supports.
1-1/4" plate top.

RF45 Mill Stand

[gd.marsh]

Once CNC'd you will need a fairly stout & heavy stand to keep things from shaking around as the table makes rapid changes in direction ..

What I did ..

3x3x.25 tubing for legs
1.5x3x.188 tubing for leg braces
8X8X.25 corner gussets
5x1.75x.190 Channel to mount mill to
60lbs of sand inside

[OHLEMANNR]

Those are some solid looking stands. I am not planning to cnc the RF-45. I'm planning to go with a Haas OM-2 to replace the Matsuura RA-1 that you can barely see on the left edge of my above photo. I like having a manual machine and though I've come across a few good deals on larger knee mills, I am reluctant to get rid of the RF. This particular model came with a 3-phase, 2-speed motor giving me 12 speeds and instant reverse for power tapping. What do you guys think about re-using the butcher block with a more solid structure underneath? I really like how it dampens vibration but I also need to figure out some kind of chip containment.

Bob

[1HobbyMachinist]

I am still playing with the idea of cncing my 45. I'm torn, because I really like it the ways it is, and everything I know about machining is by feel and the gear selections on the head. On the other hand, I do get tired of cranking handles, especially the column. Obviously I am still undecided, however, I did decide to build a new stand for it.

Mine is so overkill it's silly. Everything is 3" x 1/4" wall square tubing. There is a 1/2" sheet on top. Every joint was plasma cut open so that the whole inside network can be filled with epoxy granite if I choose to do that. Here are a few pictures of it...


Here's a mock up before welding the top plate on. I don't recall who I stole the idea for putting a toolbox in the stand, but whoever it was; thanks! I got the rolling leveler idea from jid2‎

Here I went a little nuts and seam welded the plate on all the way around just because I could. It's just like me to spend almost 3K on a tig welding machine and then just use the stick weld function, but hey, 7018 is a hellava drug!

When I finished the main box, I had a whole 20' piece of tubing left. What to do? Make it the XXX stand!
In this picture, the stand is upside down, note the beams under the steel plate to support the mill. The mill bolts directly to the stand, the threads go through the steel plate and into the beams. I'm not sure if that is the right way to do things, but it seems to work.

I think I am going to add some bracing for the column as well. Then I'll have to decide if I'm going to fill the thing with EG or just go with what I have.

[USPcompact]

Great Lakes Casters? Good stuff. Looks like what happens when I start engineering and building.

[jason_b]

The lathe and mill stand are of the same design. I made one set of dollies to fit either stand, and could be used with any future stand. The come along pulls the dollies together to lift the machine.

These things work great, makes machine moving very easy.

Jason

[vertcnc]

Wow, those are stands are sweet.