[chrisnis]

I think i may have found a stand for the lathe. I needed something that will just fit the lathe and not bigger at all since the lathe takes up about all the space i have and this stand is about the same size as the lathe .Need to do a little more measuring to be sure. Made of steel,powdercoated ,1100lbs capacity,built in light and has draws and a peg board back with storage underneath.has a flat MDF top which i like because MDF is usually always nice a level(have one on my minilathe table. Reviews all say its really sturdy and high quality. Just what im looking for pretty much .Just really hope the lathe fits on it.

Its at Lowes so im gonna see if they have it tomorrow . Cheap too !
Shop Kobalt Heavy Duty 3-Drawer Workbench Black at Lowes.com

What you guys think. As long as the mounting on the bed casting will be able to fit on the table and bolt in i think im good to go. There also just happens to be a main beam in my basement right over where the lathes gonna go so a chain hoist or comealong should work great.

[KennyV]

Nice looking machine u have there
ahh dont worry bout that skimpy little tool box , you will do just fine with a solid bench and fill another box of tools.

Good luck with it .. Just lost the head gasket on my wifes car so my priorities sorta changed order...

Kenny V

[hoss2006]

Hoss did you cnc your G0602 yet? Have any plans for modding it like you all your other beasts? looks like your site is set up for a big journey or im hoping at least Your info and mods are like gold to a lot of people. Any plans to sell a cnc kit for this lathe ? (Crosses fingers) I have dreams about a workshop like yours lol

BTW took your advise again and bought those lathe tool holders and inserts. Got the Threading,parting,ccmt and dcmt from latheinserts.com. The owners a awesome dude to and helped me out a lot . he is also about to purchase a G0602 and do some tutorials on using it with the tool holders he sells. I just ordered some material to take a stab at that threading holder you sent me the drawing of. Im having a little issue opening up the DXF though. Im trying to open it in solidworks but it looks a little weird .Not use to DXF's maybe. Im gonna try to open it in a different program.

Sorry, I was planning on cncing it but I haven't been able to access it since becoming disabled. Slowly working on getting that access back again.
That's good news on the tools, I might pick up some myself.
Hoss

[chrisnis]

Sorry, I was planning on cncing it but I haven't been able to access it since becoming disabled. Slowly working on getting that access back again.
That's good news on the tools, I might pick up some myself.
Hoss

Damn hoss ,sorry to hear that.Wish you the best. i know how that it. I have a really bad back and a lot of times cant do stuff.

I picked up the workbench from lowes today. Its beautiful. I got the full stainless steel version for 50 dollars more. Its very well made and should fit the lathe like a glove. Cant ask for anything better. It has 3 bottom drawers(smooth ball bearing too) ,bottom storage , a long drawer and shelf on top, built in switched power recepticle ,florecent light, SS tool backerboard.Its very heavy duty and has a solid wood table not the MDF which is even better.

Heres some pics of what it looks like





Shop Kobalt Stainless Steel Heavy Duty Workbench at Lowes.com

I really love it . Im thinking of picking up another actually .Its that nice. Well worth the money

[chrisnis]

Almost ready to move the lathe up onto the stand .Most likely monday as i have someone coming to buy my old lathe and stand. Question .What would be better to use , a come-a-long or a chain hoist ? Is there any difference in safety. I have never used either for lifting before. I do have a come-a-long that i used for autobody horizontal pulling but never for lifting. Also what is the best option for mounting it to the ceiling? The beam i will be lifting from is like 12"x12" thick and finished with Bboard/moulding. It does have space on top of it so i can get a rope or something over the top. Id rather not need to drill or screw anything into the beam if i dont have to. Maybe some kind of plate or strap that can go over the top of it? Last thing i want is for the lathe to come crashing down to the floor. Scary thought!

[hoss2006]

I used a 1 inch strap around a single floor joist, twice around,(wrap it 3-4 times around if you want to be overly safe) tied it in a good knot to make small loop to hook the chain hoist into, lifted my 750 lb. rf45 no problem.
Hoss

[Crevice Reamer]

You need a chain hoist. Throw a coulple lengths of heavy chain around that beam and hook the CH to it. Comealongs are NOT suitable for lifting dead weight and their manuals always warn against using them for such.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-chain-hoist-996.html

You will also need a strap to wrap around the lathe ways:
Forearm Forklift 9.4 ft.L x 3 in. W Moving Straps-FF000012 at The Home Depot
TeamStrap, Furniture Moving & Lifting Straps - Shoulder Lifting Straps
Teamstrap Moving and Lifting Straps - Amazon.com

CR.

[chrisnis]

Awesome ,ill take a trip to HF today and pick up the chain hoist. What about car tow straps for the straps . They should be able to handle the weight ,no?

edit: Actually Homedepot has a 1 ton chain hoist for cheaper so im heading there.i think i trust HD stuff more then HF stuff too lol
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1006605...N#.UZkqF0ppubE

[chrisnis]

Just got my 1 ton chain hoist and two packs of purple 2000lb lifting straps from Harbor freight. Had a 25% off coupon so it came to less then 40.00 fo everything.


I got a question on doing a 3phase VFD upgrade. Most people seem to use this Teco VFD

1HP 115 Volt -- USE AS A PHASE CONVERTER PLUS GET VARIABLE SPEED, Model JNEV-101-H1, Single Phase Input ONLY, Three Phase Output, variable frequency drive, variable frequency drives, ac drive, vfd, afd, frequency drive, drive, inverter, adjustable sp

My question is how is this 3phase? The Teco VFD says 110V input / 220v 3phase output however 3phase is 460v with 3 phases of electric lines. Is there something im missing or is this not real 3phase? Are there any VFD's that take 110vor 220vinput and output true 460v?

I know the motor i bought Leeson IEC D80 1hp 3phase says 220v/460v but when using it with that Teco VFD arent we essentially only running the motor two phase? Do we still get the benifits of true 3phase running in 2phase?

[chrisnis]

IDIDIT! Got it up to my work bench . First let me say this work bench i got is PERFECT for this lathe. It really couldnt be any better unless maybe it had a big grizzy badge and G0602 name plate. Tons of storage, overhead shelf with door for my toolholders etc ,built in light is in the perfect place. Lathe fits on it great and change gear door opens perfect,very sturdy ,solid wood top,stainless peg board for more tools.Built in fused surge protector and lathe plug actually reaches it even going through the wire grommet in the peg board. Just perfect !

Hoisting it up there was pretty easy . Got it on my second try. First try i had to straps a little too long and i was 2" short of reaching the table top. Put it back down retied my strap so there was less slack and went right up . Slid the pallet out and pushed the table right under it. Bolted down the lathe then shimmyed the table back into where it stays. Tables so sturdy i cant make it rock if i tried and is perfectly level horizontally and vertically according to my 6' level. I used one strap on the ceiling joist and one around the lathe bed. it lifted perfectly level my first try .That was what i was mainly worried about before hand. Im glad i bought the chain hoist.its so easy to use. Also i sold my 7x14lathe yesterday so that free'ed up some room in thee workshop . Heres some pics



















Table finished and lathe mounted !



Built in table light is in the PERFECT place and its in a waterproof housing

Even got some nice drawer liners



Heres a little something i noticed that looked odd to me . On the power enclosure on the lathe is there supposed to be one wire grommet with nothing coming out of it?

[Crevice Reamer]

Good Job! And that's a very nice stand. When you CNC it, you can put computer controls underneath.

Heres a little something i noticed that looked odd to me . On the power enclosure on the lathe is there supposed to be one wire grommet with nothing coming out of it?

Yep! And it will come in handy for you. I used it to feed CNC/Thread sensor wires out.




CR.

[Al_The_Man]

*I have a few Q's ..This post* caught my attention BC i am still considering what lathe i am going to purchase then convert to CNC . Next few months id like to* move forward.** One of the factors that has me staling is that after converting to CNC* id loose the ability to use manual and especially be able to do still do threading on it .



So the Grizzly* 10x22 or perhaps the LatheMaster 9 x 30 would be a likable candidate.* Could you please share the details in converting* to CNC** yet still maintain the threading option
*thanks

A while ago I converted a Lathemaster 9x30.
Put a 1:1 drive spindle motor on, I used a size 5 Fanuc AC motor.
The LatheMaster is nice quality with flame hardened ways.
Al.

[chrisnis]

A while ago I converted a Lathemaster 9x30.
Put a 1:1 drive spindle motor on, I used a size 5 Fanuc AC motor.
The LatheMaster is nice quality with flame hardened ways.
Al.

The G4002 12x24 looks pretty sweet cnc'ed too. If i could handle 1004lbs that would have been my choice for sure
Grizzly G4002 CNC conversion. - YouTube

- - - Updated - - -

Good Job! And that's a very nice stand. When you CNC it, you can put computer controls underneath.



Yep! And it will come in handy for you. I used it to feed CNC/Thread sensor wires out.




CR.

Nice grizzly thinking of modders lol

[chrisnis]

Just wanted to get you guys opinion on QCTP's

I use to have one of those tormach OXA import tool posts on my 7x14 lathe . It was a piece of crap honestly . The locking lever wa always loose(moved back and forth even when tightened ,the lever knob threads didnt even fit(just slid right over the lever without threading),wasnt that heavy,locked ok but that was about it.you can tell it was pretty poor quality .

When getting a new qctp for this lathe i wanted to get something different in the AXA version then the black import one like the oxa but couldnt afford a aloris,dorian or phaseII . Well i got one that looked different and was super cheap .I paid under 100.00 for the whole kit+shiiping. Its in the link below. It looks like a knockoff Aloris even down to the badge on the side. I figured if anything it would be like the other black imports . I have seen a Aloris in person and the quality is much higher then the black imports.Well i got the Aloris knockoff in the other day and i gotta say this thing is quality made. I really cant tell any quality different from a real Aloris or at least a PhaseII . The Lever is super smooth and doesnt move back and forth when locked, ball end knob thtreads on perfect. Weight and steel used is much heavier and higher quality then the other imports.Tool holders fit tight and smooth with no play anywhere.Its freaking awesome and even better it was dirt cheap. I really cant find a thing wrong with it.Even the ball knob has a nice weight to it kinda like bowling ball material.Much better qualty knurled nuts on the holders too and pretty good set screws.I even bought a few extra tool holders for 8.00 each

Has anyone else used this qctp and what was your opinion?Here is the link where i got it
AXA Wedgetype Quick Change Tool Post Set for South Bend 9" and 10" Lathe | eBay

Notice the Aloris or AXA style red ball knob and AXA style red badge.



So im also torn about what i should do to get my half inch tools on center. My 1/2" tooling hasnt come in yet so im not sure how much its off yet.
I know i have a few option but which way do you think is best?

1 Milling the bottoms of each carbide tool holder?
2Milling the bottom exterior of each qctp tool holder?
3Milling the bottom of the inside of each qctp tool holder(where to tool sits) ?
4Facing off some material on the top of the actual compound rest?

I will be going cnc and then i wont have the issue but it could be a while of manual use before going cnc.I am personally leaning towards option number 2. there looks to be a lot of material on the bottom of the qctp turning tool holders and im thinking it will be a little softer steel then the actual tool bit holders. On option 4 im kinda scared of not getting milling the compound perfectly level expecially with multiple passes of a large end mill and finishing with a fly cutter and potentially ruining the compound. My X2 is trammed pretty damn good but its still a x2 all in all.

[chrisnis]

Just found out i need to change the oil before running the lathe . I can find a exact answer for what type of oil . I know grizzly wants us to buy molyD iso 68 but im not going to pay 215.00 for 5 gallons. What do you guys use? Iv also read mobil DTE was ok to use ? Is that correct and what weight mobil DTE?

Also what oil to use for the ball oilers ?

As for everything else i have plenty of Mobil vactraII and Mobil spindle oil.

[underthetire]

Moly d? That's a cutting oil. You mean the headstock oil? I recall it being dte light or dte 24. About 65.00 for 5 gallons.

[Crevice Reamer]

Just found out i need to change the oil before running the lathe . I can find a exact answer for what type of oil . I know grizzly wants us to buy molyD iso 68 but im not going to pay 215.00 for 5 gallons. What do you guys use? Iv also read mobil DTE was ok to use ? Is that correct and what weight mobil DTE?

Use the ISO 68 weight or 20. Second one down:
McMaster-Carr

The resoirvoir holds 1 qt. So a gallon is 4 oil changes. Have the oil on hand b4 you do break in. Change oil after while hot. Change again in 3 mos and after that only every year. So 1 Gal is good for 2 years.

Also what oil to use for the ball oilers ?

You can use almost any light oil in the ball oilers. I use Mobil one synthetic on ways and balls to avoid organic oil in my synthetic flood coolant.

DO NOT PUT OIL INTO SPINDLE BALL OILERS!!!! This will just wash out the grease that is already in there, and eventually cause bearing failure.

CR.

[chrisnis]

Use the ISO 68 weight or 20. Second one down:
McMaster-Carr

The resoirvoir holds 1 qt. So a gallon is 4 oil changes. Have the oil on hand b4 you do break in. Change oil after while hot. Change again in 3 mos and after that only every year. So 1 Gal is good for 2 years.



You can use almost any light oil in the ball oilers. I use Mobil one synthetic on ways and balls to avoid organic oil in my synthetic flood coolant.

DO NOT PUT OIL INTO SPINDLE BALL OILERS!!!! This will just wash out the grease that is already in there, and eventually cause bearing failure.

CR.

ordered the Mobil DTE med/heavy iso68 from mcmaster

For the ball oilers can i use MOBIL Velocite Light Weight Spindle Oil #6 iso68? I have plenty of this stuff on hand already. Its a lightweight light yellow colored oil

Yes i know no oiling the spindle gears. Heard lots of stories about that lol.


Also im almost done dissasembling everything and cleaning the gunk. I have one issue though.When i took my compound off cleaned it and put it back on i now have almost 2 full revolutions of backlash ? WTF.It seems the dial itself unscrews the two revolutions before the compound starts moving and when going back in 2 revolutions until the dial reaches the compound again. How do i fix this? I checked the leadscrew nut on the dial but it seems tight? The cross-slide is great with maybe 1-2thou at most. 2 full revs on the compound though is way unacceptable. lol

On another note,i tried milling one of the AXA tool post holders and it wasnt happening. It is a super hard case hardened alloy steel. Someone in a vid i saw on youtube said it was around 42rockwell. My little x2 mill barely made a dent in it. i tried a bunch of different things and end mills and it was just rubbing it. im pretty sure it was just pulling my mill head up. i tried taking as much as .060DOC and at the very edge it started taking a little material off but you could see it took less and less til it was just rubbing it on top.Looks like a little chip at the edge of the holder lol. Any ideas? I tried both HSS tian coated mills and a SGS 4F Carbide.Tried small cutter engagements, higher spindle speeds and feeds.Noting seems to do anything to it but make a shiney finish.I did mill the mounting blank that came with the qctp pretty easily to fit the tslot on the compound .Im guessing they dont harden that or use different material since my mill had no trouble with that. Do you think i will have more luck milling the actual tools instead?

If anyone has a bigger mill that wouldnt mind taking a 1/8" off the bottom of my holders for me id greatly appreciate it. Ill of course compensate you for it as well.

[Crevice Reamer]

Sorry if I told you to mill the compound. It's been a long time since I did mine. You have to GRIND the slots into the compound. You are just relieving it a little, and nothing will ever ride in the slots, so it doesn't have to be a perfect finish. I used a grinding wheel and, I think, finished with a file.

If you stand the compound on its dial for reference, you need to grind a 45 angle pocket on the left side, (including part of the new T mount you made) about 1/4 inch wide slot off the top side, and a 1/4 inch wide slot (The length of the tool holder) on the right side. all about 1/8-3/16 inch deep. Just enough to allow the tools to center.

Mark it off with the tool post in place, remove the compound and then grind carefully with a trued up wheel. Not hard to do at all.

You could probably do the initial marking cuts with a Dremel and cutting disk. Just don't cut too deep--and also could do the grinding with an angle grinder while the compound is in place. If you do it this way, cover everything to protect from grinding dust.

Now that I think of it, You could also mount a 3 inch cutting disk & arbor in the mill spindle and just slice the slots in from top and sides with compound clamped to table or in vise. That would probably produce a very neat job.

CR.

[chrisnis]

Sorry if I told you to mill the compound. It's been a long time since I did mine. You have to GRIND the slots into the compound. You are just relieving it a little, and nothing will ever ride in the slots, so it doesn't have to be a perfect finish. I used a grinding wheel and, I think, finished with a file.

If you stand the compound on its dial for reference, you need to grind a 45 angle pocket on the left side, (including part of the new T mount you made) about 1/4 inch wide slot off the top side, and a 1/4 inch wide slot (The length of the tool holder) on the right side. all about 1/8-3/16 inch deep. Just enough to allow the tools to center.

Mark it off with the tool post in place, remove the compound and then grind carefully with a trued up wheel. Not hard to do at all.

You could probably do the initial marking cuts with a Dremel and cutting disk. Just don't cut too deep--and also could do the grinding with an angle grinder while the compound is in place. If you do it this way, cover everything to protect from grinding dust.

Now that I think of it, You could also mount a 3 inch cutting disk & arbor in the mill spindle and just slice the slots in from top and sides with compound clamped to table or in vise. That would probably produce a very neat job.

CR.

For now i just took 1/8" off the bottom of my qctp tool holder on the bench grinder and finished it with a file. i can get the tool on center now easily. I still have to do my other 9 holders though. I think the main issue i was having on the mill was the end mills i was using. I just ordered a 2" 45degree sekn facemill with some inserts for hardened alloy steels so ill try again when i get it. I wasnt able to mill the actual carbide tool holders either with the end mill i was using. I seen vids of it being milled on my mill and on a g0704 so i know my mill should be able to handle it.

Any ideas on the issues in my last post with the compound and oil?

Also im getting the cnc planned out and wondering if i should just go with the kit from bdtools on ebay? looks like a pretty good kit. I think i may also go with a seperate controller from my mill since i will need it controlling the lathe spindle etc for threading. not sure how all those add on will work splitting the controller with my mill. I think i may just go with the cheaper keiling controllers instead of a Gecko this time and go with some 580oz steppers.