Eric,
http://tinyurl.com/pgr6mp3
A magnetic flow switch can be connected as a limit switch or even in series with the E Stop.
Jeff...
Eric,
http://tinyurl.com/pgr6mp3
A magnetic flow switch can be connected as a limit switch or even in series with the E Stop.
Jeff...
Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.
You can always use the spindle body for a auxiliary high speed spindle for your mill by putting a pulley on the spindle and another in a collet. Or maybe get a servo and drive then attach the servo direct to the spindle shaft. That might make a nice lower speed spindle that can rigid tap.
Ben
That's a nice find Jeff! Thanks!
I like the way you think Ben, I may just do something like that!
Well, the UPS man dropped off the leveling feet for the Monster, they are much stronger than the ones I had before too! So I returned the others to McMaster!
The little box for under the front of the Monster has arrived as well, so I picked up a 12-foot piece of 1/2" EMT and a 4x4 box! Next I mounted the 4x4 box behind the 220-VAC disconnect switch, and started bending the EMT! Well its a pretzel now, but it fits like a glove! The grey box will contain a contactor and a relay, which will allow me to start / stop the Monster from up front! This is a little overkill, but it makes the Monster user friendly!
The spindle problem is going to have to wait, until I get the new spindle and some components from Mouser to fix the inverter's! After I finish installing the front box, I'll disassemble the X-Axis slide to remove the top box. Then I'll install the thermostat, and wire it into the E-Stop circuit. This is going to require an additional relay, as the solid state relay within the thermostat is Normally Open and the E-Stop circuitry is Normally Closed! But the show must go on
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
I recommended that flow switch back in this post on page 58:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc-wo...ml#post1422652
Just thinking about it. If you use a flow sensor and a sixty second timer relay when power is applied to it. That if it does not see flow that the relay will not let the rest of the spindle control even turn on or, and the whole machine.. Which would good safety factor to save the important parts. Or something like this.
Just a note about referencing page numbers.
It's better to reference the post number, as you can set the number of posts per page to different numbers. I use 40 posts/page, and only have 24 pages in this thread. No page 58.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
So far I have acquired enough cash to get another VFD Inverter, so I'll be able to finish this build with a new spindle & a new inverter!
Also, I have located a electronics tech that may be willing to test & replace the damaged components in the two fried inverter's!
With a little luck, I'll be able to use one of them on my next build! (A little smaller this time!)
Widgit
Oh yeah, I made up a connection's sheet for the inverter & the PMDX-107 spindle speed control board!
HY02D223B VFD INVERTER
Parameter Settings
PD001 - Source of Run Commands 1
PD002 - Source of Operating Frequency 0
PD003 - Main Frequency 400
PD004 - Base Frequency 400
PD005 - Max Operating Frequency 400
PD023 - Rev. Rotation Select 1
PD141 - Rated Motor Voltage 220
PD142 - Rated Motor Current 11
PD144 - Rated Motor Revolution 9999
widgitmaster
Here is what your settings should be for the VFD, Your Amp setting is set to high at 11 amps the list below are what you need to have in your Drive
Huanyang Mactec54
PD001=0 (1 For Remote Control)
PD002=0
PD003=400
PD004=400
PD005=400
PD007=20
PD008=220
PD0011=120 (Minimum Setting 120)
PD009=15
PD0010=8
PD13= 1 is for Factory reset, Only use this to set VFD to Factory Default Settings
PD014 Accel=12 ( Adjust to suit)
PD015 Deccl=12 (Adjust to suit) ( IF PD26=1 Is Used Then the Spindle will Coast to a Stop)
PD141=220 ( Motor Rated Voltage )
PD142=9.5 ( Motor Max Amps) (Set for your motor Amp Rating 2.2Kw Spindle 9.5 Max)
PD143=2 ( Motor Number of Poles)
PD144=3000 (Max Motor RPM) =3,000=(24,000)
Mactec54
Thanks Mac!
When I opened the door to the VFD, I could smell the burnt electronics!
Here is a picture of the two inverter's, and they are NOT the same! The one on the right is the newer one!
widgitmaster
They are the same but I think they have stoped using the 3 red jumper wires, & use a large trace on the board instead, You have to remove that board to get at the IGBT, the Zeners may be on the top
Mactec54
Thanks Mac!
Today I finished up the Start / Stop switch box! Now when the big 220-VAC switch is on, only the 110-VAC Red LED is energized!
Now, my question for today:
Are diode's only used on DC relay coils? All the stuff I looked at on Google was for DC circuits!
And what should go on an AC relay or contactor coil?
Widgt
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
on a dc relay a diode is used to suppress the back EMF from the collapsing magnetic field of the coil when the relay is switched off. Without it the spike would destroy the I/O pin or transistor that is controlling the relay. when the relay coil is not controlled by a microcontroller or transistor (as would be the case with an AC coil relay) a diode is not required. In fact, a diode across an AC relay coil would act as a short circuit half the time.
But a lot of the time a high voltage Varister is used to suppress the voltage spike with the coil is de-energised. The Varister acts as a very high Ohm's resistor below it's rated voltage and over it's rated voltage it's resistance drops to a very low value thereby acting as a short and burning off the back emf. This is used not to protect io pins but to stop spikes and noise on your mains line that can then cause problems elsewhere. Varisters for 110v and 240v would usually be in the 600v range as the back emf can be thousands of volts.
Widget the two VFDs do look slightly different. They might be different art masters. The one on the right looks like the black relay is damaged or smoked unless the photo just makes it look that way. As MAC said the key parts are on the other side. I look look carefully for anything that looks smoked and check the units on back with a ohm meter for shorts in circuit.
Russ
To clamp back EMF by installing across a relay coil, yes, the stripe goes to the positive.
widgitmaster
Mactec54
Ok, thanks!
Now, does the Varister keep the relay contacts from burning or sticking closed? Or is a capacitor required also?
So far this build has two 12-vdc relays, one 110-vac relay, and two 110-vac contactor's.
As I'm trying to make it last, by building it smart! But my knowledge of electronics is so limited!
Widgit