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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22

    New CRP4848 Build from Central Texas

    Hey folks,

    I am starting my first CNC project and though this will most likely not be a detailed build thread, I will try to post some pics from time to time. I am building a CRP4848 with upgraded rack and pinion using nema 23 electronics and a Gecko 540. Basically, I bought everything from CNC Router Parts since I did not want to run around sourcing things myself. I just need a machine to work and need it quickly!

    I choose to build my own base rather than buy their leg kit so I got started on it yesterday. I wanted heavy and something that had a lot less natural wood movement so I choose to use LVL's (laminated veneer lumber). I was a custom home builder for 18 years and use a lot of LVL's in structural applications so I know very well what they are capable of. LVL's also have less movement due to changes in humidity of any wood product I am aware of. That seemed important for a precision machine!

    I started with 1.75" x 14" LVL's and ripped them to 6 7/8" wide. I jointed them on the jointer and planed them to get them nice and smooth. For the legs, I used some 1.75" x 12" LVL ripped in half. I then glued 3 together to make a roughly 5"x5" leg. I decided to build the base fairly short compared to some of the machines I see on here since I will be handling 4x4 sheet of up to 3/4" acrylic and did not see any point in lifting it any higher than I had to! I may regret making low. The legs are 28" and once I put the 3/4" MDF on it and add my extrusions, my bed should be around 34" off the floor.

    Anyway, here are some pics of my progress thus far.

    Here is the glue up of the legs:
    Attachment 188668

    Attachment 188670

    Legs all glued up:
    Attachment 188672

    The outer band of the base all shimmed level, squared up, glued and screwed:
    Attachment 188674

    Detail of the corners with the legs attached and inside band applied. I do not need the inside for strength but wanted it for mass and weight:
    Attachment 188676

    And here is where I ended up at 3 am last night!
    Attachment 188678

    Today my helper and I flipped it over and I made a set of home made leg levelers. No one in town had anything other than furniture grade stuff so I made my own. I will try to take a few pics later. Tonight I am going to install the levelers and build the framing for the bottom shelf. Then I will flip it over and install the shelf and then the top "joists". After that, I will wrap the entire thing in plywood for rack resistance and skin the legs and top frame, then paint.

    Thanks for looking!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    1036
    Quote Originally Posted by TurnTex View Post
    Tonight I am going to install the levelers and build the framing for the bottom shelf. Then I will flip it over and install the shelf and then the top "joists". After that, I will wrap the entire thing in plywood for rack resistance and skin the legs and top frame, then paint.
    Clearly you have knowledge and skills. I hope that you'll post some more photos as you complete your build so we can learn from you!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    817
    Quote Originally Posted by TurnTex View Post
    Detail of the corners with the legs attached and inside band applied. I do not need the inside for strength but wanted it for mass and weight:
    Attachment 188676
    Now that's a tight joint! Thanks for sharing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Tonight I finished the levelers and got them painted and installed. I also finished out the bottom shelf and flipped it back over. The levelers work GREAT!

    Some more progress pictures:

    To make the levelers, I cut some 1.5" x 1/8" steel flat bar about 3" long. I then drilled a 1/2" hole in the center and 4 holes on the outside. I then welded a 1/2" bolt to the back side. Don't laugh at my welding! It is strong but not pretty! It is hidden in the leg anyway.

    Attachment 188688

    For the leg itself, I used a 1/2" x 1.5" bolt and welded a large washer to it.

    Attachment 188690

    I wanted to make sure the washer was 90° to the bolt itself. I don't have a metal lathe so I chucked them in my drill press and used a piece of MDF with some 120 grit sandpaper glued on and used that to face the washer. I then glued on some rubber washers I found at Lowes onto the nut to provide some vibration dampening and anti-skid. The extra nut it to be able to lock it in place once adjusted.

    Attachment 188692

    All of this got painted to prevent rust. I then drilled a 1 1/4" hole about 3/4" in deep in the legs with a forstner bit to provide clearance for the nut and my sloppy welding! I then drilled a 5/8" diameter hole an additional 1.5" deep to provide clearance for the bolt shaft when fully inserted. After all the drilling was done, it was simply attach the levelers with some 1 1/4" truss head screws.

    Attachment 188694

    After the levelers were in, I ran some bottom "joists" for the bottom shelf while I still had it upside down. I started with 2x6's and after planing and jointing to get them straight, they ended up being 1 5/8" x 4" so not much more than a 2x4! If I had started with a 2x4 though, I would have ended up smaller than I wanted.

    Attachment 188696

    After gluing and screwing all the joists in place, I cheated and used my electric hoist I concocted a few years ago to flip it back over. That thing has come in real handy on many occasions!

    Attachment 188698

    After flipping and moving back to close to where the machine will go, I leveled it all up (did I say how well my homemade levelers worked (), I installed some 3/4" BC plywood with glue and 2" finish nails for the bottom shelf. At this point, it was close to 2 am so I knocked off for the night!

    Attachment 188700

    Tomorrow night I will installed the top LVL "joists" and then the MDF sub base. I may also start on the skin and drawers/doors.

    BTW, you may be asking why I made my own levelers instead of buying something...well, for one, I like making my own things and two, Lowes and the local hardware store did not have anything beefy enough for my liking. The only things they had were more geared for furniture.

    Thanks for looking and sorry if there was too much boring detail!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    75
    Very nice looking base! I am also preparing for a CRP4848 machine and have been considering an LVL base. If you don't mind I may use some of your design to finish mine. For racking resistance, are you going to skin with 3/4 plywood? I was considering using 1/2, but as you say, more weight is also helpful.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by vbgraves View Post
    Very nice looking base! I am also preparing for a CRP4848 machine and have been considering an LVL base. If you don't mind I may use some of your design to finish mine. For racking resistance, are you going to skin with 3/4 plywood? I was considering using 1/2, but as you say, more weight is also helpful.
    Absolutely, please feel free to use anything I post! I am honored that you found something useful in my post! I will most likely skin with 3/4 ply but may use 3/4 MDF since it is more stable and heavier! I want this thing heavy! It is already mostly too heavy for one man to pick up. When I had it tilted up with my hoist, I got under and and I could lift it but it was a strain!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    Looks great so far!

    I did something similar with my leveling feet, used rubber pads for A/C units, carriage bolts, big washers, welded nuts on plates under the legs, and jam nuts. All from Lowes except the rubber pads. Looks dirty because it's been sitting there for over 3 years works great.





    Sent from tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    It's a little late, but I use carriage bolts through hockey pucks for my leveling feet. They're non skid, and vibration damping. And they only cost about $1 or $2.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    It's a little late, but I use carriage bolts through hockey pucks for my leveling feet. They're non skid, and vibration damping. And they only cost about $1 or $2.
    I live in Texas...what the heck is a hockey puck?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    22
    I am sure you guys are getting bored with base pics but I am going to give them to you anyway! Tonight I installed the "joists", the MDF top, and the plywood skin to the top section. I believe I am going to wait on the lower skin until after I decide how I am going to use the space underneath. That will be easier once I have my machine and know what I am dealing with as far as electronics, etc. I plan to put the controller and other electronics underneath and may even put the computer box there. Not having any idea what the heck I am doing without parts, I think it will be prudent to wait and see how big of doors or drawers I need to build. I plan to pain the top and skin tomorrow and get ready for the machine build, hopefully this weekend!

    Anyway, here are the progress pics from tonight.

    Here it is after I installed the joists. I used pocket screws on each end with glue. These are also LVLs. They look funny because I planed them down to get them nice and even and straight. In some cases, I planed through the outer veneer and the black areas are the glue layers.

    Attachment 188860

    Here is is with the MDF installed. I ran a generous bead of Titebond2 along each framing member and the nailed it ever 6" or so with 2" finish nails. I was going to use screws but decided nailing would be easier. Besides, I just had to keep it in place until the glue dried since glue is stronger than the wood itself anyway! It is perfectly square verified by measuring the diagonals.

    Attachment 188862

    And here are a couple of shots after I put the skin on the top band. I used 1/2" plywood and plenty of Titebond 2. I ripped the ply about 1/6" oversize and flushed it to the bottom. I nailed it all on with 1 3/8" 23 gauge pin nails. Again, all it has to do is hold it there until the glue dries. After it was nailed up, I used a flush trim bit in my trim router to trim the top of the ply perfectly flush with the MDF.

    Attachment 188866

    Attachment 188864

    Again, thanks for looking!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    Awesome looking base! Nicely done. We love pictures here, keep em commin.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    817
    Looks great! Heavy=Good

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1086
    Curtis,

    That's one sweet looking base, and will definitely let you run your machine with less vibration. Looking good!

    Ahren
    CNCRouterParts

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    938
    Great build thread so far. Keep the pics coming. In my opinion you can never get to detailed in these build threads, especially when you get to the mechanical and electrical assemblies. So, the more detail the better for me. I look forward to your next postions. (actually your build thread is helping me decide whether to go the CNCRouterParts route or stay with my Joes 4x4 for my next machine upgrade).

    Steven
    If you cut it to small you can always nail another piece on the end, but if you cut it to big... then what the hell you gonna do?

    Steven

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    92
    Curtis,

    Great looking base. I'm glad I found your thread and I will be watching as I'm also getting ready to start building my CPR4848. Everything is ready to go except my electronics package and a clear area in the shop.

    Chuck

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