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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    22

    It's Alive ! Momus 2.0 Build

    Still need to lay the epoxy bed and do final calibration.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    38
    Nice. I like the Sharpie test method. Congratulations.
    No signature I would write will fit on only two lines.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    209
    Congratulations! Looks awesome, very nice build!!! :-)
    I too like the sharpie method, great idea! Perhaps I'll try that too first.
    So, did you put any foam inside the torsion box or the walls?
    --
    mk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    22
    I didn't spray any foam inside after my post, didnt want to mess it up and have to rebuild the base. Only problem I have now is Jamestown has the epoxy on backorder until 8/20

    Here is a shot before I painted the outside green, the inside was painted with white Brightside marine enamel


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    38
    Was the order of creating the letters in the word "INTERNET" intentional, or did the CAM software do that automatically for some reason? Also, do you have any post-paint photos in good light showing the green? In the video, it looks like you painted it black.
    No signature I would write will fit on only two lines.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    22
    Sorry for the blurry picture, the high gloss white kept blowing out the camera.

    The text was written in Lazycam and that's how it laid out.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    22
    I fixed the front panel and took some better pictures




  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    209
    Very nice work, looks great! I would almost consider finishing the cover just with poly, not paint - it really looks great the way it is.
    Did you build it in your kitchen? ;-)
    --
    mk

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    22
    I'm working on the hold down table for the work piece. I plan on using 2 angle aluminum brackets mounted to the side wall. Then using four 1/4 20 bolts with the tips filed down to points driven into the bottom piece of plywood to hold it secure. I'm doing this to avoid having to use wood screws in the base to secure the work table. Will this work or should I just screw it into the epoxy covered base ?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    35
    So the angle will be mounted 3/4" up from the base on the side of the machine, you will then slide a 3/4" spoil board underneath and fix it in place with the 1/4" bolts?

    Sounds reasonable as the bolts will help push the spoil board down

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    22
    Thats exactly it except I went up around 1.5" to make it easier to slide in and out



    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    22
    OMG IT WORKS


  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    209
    Whohoo! Congrats on finishing your machine and thanks for the video. Looks great!!!
    Please do make more videos on the items you're making with your machine, I bet there's lots to learn from that.
    The idea with the rails is great, I might just adopt that in my machine too :-)
    The more I learn about this stuff I keep thinking that a thin vacuum table attachment would be super cool to have.
    Using your idea with the rails, that thing could just slide in and out of the machine as needed!
    Me likey :-)
    --
    Mac

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    22
    First cut on an actual part.



    Update: I've cut usable real parts. Replacing two metal pieces with clear Lexan on my pinball machine. This is awesome


    Attachment 199852

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    16
    Awesome build, congrats!! One side note, that's too long of a bit for that thin of material. Would look into getting shorter bits so you don't run into deflection issues while cutting harder materials. If you are going to be cutting a lot of Lexan or other plastics, get the single flute bits. You can find them pretty cheap on ebay. Have fun making some chips!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    132
    Congratulations! There is nothing quite like seeing it all come together and start to make something you need.

    +1 with cb_designer's comment on cutting tool length. If your speeds are very slow in soft material, you can get away with a long tool -- sometimes.
    It is amazing how much they deflect and start causing repeatability errors or odd looking cutting paths, all due to tool flex.

    Well done! There is nothing like success to make more success.

    -=Doug
    "IT ≠ IQ " Starwalt 1999

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    209
    Awesome! Thanks for the note about the pinball machine part. I've been dying to figure out what that was you were making there.
    Could be a flipper part, what is it?
    Thanks for the video & thanks for the comments on the cutter deflection, that makes a lot of sense - I'm learning so much from this forum, it's awesome.
    Keep posting your progress! Building the machine is one thing, but tuning and using it with the tools available and the optimal feeds and speeds is a whole different animal.
    --
    Nice job,
    Mac

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    22
    I ordered a few single flute 1/16" end mills from ebay and I'm getting much better results ! Thanks for the suggestion

    I'm replacing this metal part with clear lexan.
    Before -
    Attachment 200438
    After -
    Attachment 200440
    Cutting a sheet to sell (and a set of limit switch holders)
    Attachment 200442
    Desktop manufacturing on the kitchen table !
    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    35
    Very cool

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    38
    You must be single, lol.
    No signature I would write will fit on only two lines.

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