[DruMor]

How big a deal is it to move the tool probe from the Haas installed right end of the table to the left end, AND rotate the probe body so the receiver is on the left and the tool touch pad is to the right? Is there something in the tool probing macro to change to tell it the probe body is oriented differently? Will the receiver at the back of the machine have to be relocated to the left of the spindle head?

Our shop is considering replacing a 1999 VF-2 with a new VF-2SS. The main job this machine will run has a HRT210 to the far right of the machine table and 2 Kurt 6" vises to the left of the rotary. Table real estate is at a premium and pretty much the only place for the tool probe will be at the back left of the table.

[WallyL7]

Simple process. Move it to where you want it then recalibrate it with the calibration program (set a KNOWN tool or dowel before you unbolt it and use it to recalibrate.)

[Kool Parts]

Yep I moved mine to the far left as well because of the 4th.
Gary

[haastec]

How big a deal is it to move the tool probe from the Haas installed right end of the table to the left end, AND rotate the probe body so the receiver is on the left and the tool touch pad is to the right? Is there something in the tool probing macro to change to tell it the probe body is oriented differently? Will the receiver at the back of the machine have to be relocated to the left of the spindle head?

Our shop is considering replacing a 1999 VF-2 with a new VF-2SS. The main job this machine will run has a HRT210 to the far right of the machine table and 2 Kurt 6" vises to the left of the rotary. Table real estate is at a premium and pretty much the only place for the tool probe will be at the back left of the table.

Or......... get a VF-4 and do this:

Attachment 196794

VF-4 with HRT210
Tool setter sitting on a riser approximately 3" tall. Zero issues with clearance even for short tools.

[Kool Parts]

You know I have stared at that thing for a couple of years now, but never thought about a riser..
Gary

[WallyL7]

You know I have stared at that thing for a couple of years now, but never thought about a riser..
Gary

Me neither. If there is no need to change it, then why give it a second thought? I've got enough to think about.

[haastec]

This machine utilizes the tool breakage feature many times during the program, so having it tucked away on the right side keeps it clear of chips settling on top of the styllus and also helps protect it from damage.

[Delw]

The riser on the right works out best, Mines behind the rotary 210 on my vf2ss. Haas sells a riser which I bought with the machine, all it is, is alum you can make one in 20 mins.. I believe its 3/4" thick about 3 inchs wide and 5"-6" tall. At 1st I was thinking it was too tall but we run very short tools most of the time.
One thing I like about the riser is that when your facing off a part in one of the vises (if you have faces and profiled the other side 1st) the little corner chips/chucks wont fly off the face mill and wack the stylist breaking the little pcs of sheet metal ( I don't keep mine covered)
the other nice thing is that if you have an operator that probes a face tool and forgets to bring the tool up and just hits cycle start it wont wack your vise. saw it happen once and about **** myself cause I couldn't hit the feed hold fast enough he was blocking the way. good thing the riser was taller than the vice jaws or that could have been costly.


Delw

[Delw]

drumor
putting 2 6" angle locks and a has 210 on the same table will be almost useless on a vf2ss.
when you try to use the rotary your vice will be in the way and when you want to face parts on the vice's you wont be about to run a 3" wide face cutter on either side of the vices for facing.

your best bet is to keep the rotary off and just run the vices then put it on when you need it. takes about 10 mins tops when you have a probe. use the kurt angle locks with alum softjaws and use the key ways in them takes 10 mins tops to put 2-3 vises on also. you don't have to indicate them in very close cause there softjaws and you can cut them. so with the keyways you get about .0005-.002 and your ok.

I made a alum bar that locks my 2 vise's in and aligns it to the table slot( cut pin on each side to fit slot) clamp the vice down on the bar and tighten the bolts with in .0005 every time.( I use no keys on my vices cause they tend to pick up crap from the bench they stay on when not in use.)

[DruMor]

drumor
putting 2 6" angle locks and a has 210 on the same table will be almost useless on a vf2ss.
when you try to use the rotary your vice will be in the way and when you want to face parts on the vice's you wont be about to run a 3" wide face cutter on either side of the vices for facing.

your best bet is to keep the rotary off and just run the vices then put it on when you need it. takes about 10 mins tops when you have a probe. use the kurt angle locks with alum softjaws and use the key ways in them takes 10 mins tops to put 2-3 vises on also. you don't have to indicate them in very close cause there softjaws and you can cut them. so with the keyways you get about .0005-.002 and your ok.

I made a alum bar that locks my 2 vise's in and aligns it to the table slot( cut pin on each side to fit slot) clamp the vice down on the bar and tighten the bolts with in .0005 every time.( I use no keys on my vices cause they tend to pick up crap from the bench they stay on when not in use.)

Our existing VF-2 has been running this setup with 2 3600 Kurt vises and the 210 rotary since it was new. Blanks go in on the left vise, then go to a fixture on the middle vise, go from there to the rotary and comes off the rotary as a finished part. With the clamps we use on the 3600s, I can get them to about 3" apart and I still have good clearence from the right vise to the rotary fixture. One solution we came up with at the shop this week was make a dedicated riser block to hold the fixture that the right vise currently holds, because we could probably gain atleast 2-3" of X table space. Then I could move the lone existing vise a little to the right and make more room for a probe on the left end of the table. My thinking is put the probe in the 3" of dead space at the left and have the stylius just inside the travel envelope enough to work.