[thkoutsidthebox]

Here's a quick go at it.

I couldn't find the exact same font so fiddled with the vectors a little bit to get it approx (Very approx ). If you want to fiddle with it yourself I can upload the vector graphic version.

[thkoutsidthebox]

Edited it a bit

[squirrelledm]

Could you help me with Corel 12 as mentiond above

[thkoutsidthebox]

Could you help me with Corel 12 as mentiond above

I've been trying to do up a video tutorial for the past hour but for some reason the audio won't merge.....I'll try it again now, and if it doesn't work I'll do my best with screen captures.

Basically you import your raster graphic, then draw the vectors onto it, then delete the raster graphic and save the vectors....brb...

[thkoutsidthebox]

My video audio won't work, very upsetting since I don't find out until after the video is finished! Anyone use Screen Recorder Gold?

Anyway, we'll work onwards and upwards the old fashioned way! Pics should be viewed from left to right, working the first line, then the second, and on downwards. Like a book!

1) Firstly open Corel Draw and simply select 'File' - 'New' or start a new blank page however you usually do when you begin.

2) Select 'File' - 'Import' and choose your bitmap graphic to import it onto your blank page. Pic 1&2

3) Then select your 'Freehand Tool'. If you hold the mouse button down you get a few options, I always begin with straight lines instead of working directly from curves, so select the straight line freehand tool. Pic 3

4) You then want to draw straight lines around your drawing from corner to corner, or in this case, from the ends of any curves. As you can see here, the forehead is a single long curve, so it only needs two nodes. Left click to place your nodes, working your way all around the graphic. Pic 4&5.

5) When you reach the end of your graphic (Where you started) you want the final line to join with your first node to do this simply move your pointer over your first node and see that the corner symbol on the pointer changes to a little arrow to signify that if you click your vectors will join. Click to complete your circuit of your graphic. Pic6&7

6) If your vectors blend with either your graphic or its background, and are difficult to see, move your mouse to your colour pallet at the screen edge, and click the 'right mouse button' on any colour to change the colour of the selected vectors. Here I changed it to red. Pic8.

7) You now want to convert some of your straight lines to curves to follow the outline of your graphic. Select the 'Shape Tool'. Pic9

8) You can convert any of your individual lines between two adjacent nodes into a curve. Make sure your overall vector is selected by 'Left Clicking' anywhere on it. Then select the place you want to start so you can work your way around the entire graphic as before. Right click on a line segment and select 'To Curve'. This will convert that line segment into a curve which you can easily adjust. Pic10.

9) You adjust the curved segment by 'Left Clicking' on either of the two inward pointing arrows which appear out of each end node. Hold the mouse button down when you click on an arrow, and drag it around until your curve matches the outline of your raster graphic behind it. Pic11&12.

10) Decide if you will work around clockwise or anti-clockwise (It doesn't matter which) and 'Right-Click' on the next line segment beside the one you just finished working with to convert it into a curve. Adjust it aswell using the arrows and continue on around the graphic until your back at the start.

11) To get adjacent segments to match up smoothly, you need to select their common node point in the middle of them. You then have to adjust the two arrows coming out of that node (One for each segment, facing away from each other) until they are approximately parallel. This will give you a smooth curve at on the node. Pic 13&14

Sometimes you might have a very tight curve and you cannot adjust two adjacent segments in such a way that they will both join smoothly, and follow the curvature of your raster graphic. You then need to select a point to add in another node, or number of nodes, which will give you extra wriggle room for adjustment of the complex or sharp curve. 'Right-Click' on your vector where you want the new node, and select 'Add'. Now you can adjust the lines between your new node and its adjacent nodes as normal, but you have an extra line segment.

12) Once your outline is completed, you can move onto tracing your internal details. As shown here I have traced an eyebrow, and an individual detail within one of the feathers. I simply followed the procedure of drawing three straight lines, then converting them to curves and bending them to match my graphic lines. Pic15.
Remember that the amount and type of detail you want is specific to your application. The detail for plasma cutting may be completely different to the detail traced for use in graphic publishing for example on advertising media like magazines or business cards.

13) Once you have finished tracing your raster graphic, select your standard arrow 'Pick-Tool' and 'Left-Click' on your graphic behind the traced vectors. Usually its easiest to select the graphic by itself by clicking on one of the extreme corners. When the graphic is selected, 'Right-Click' your mouse and select the 'Delete' option to leave only your trace. Pic 16, 17 & 18

14) You can now either click 'File' - 'Save-As', or 'File' - 'Export', depending upon what you want to do with your trace. In the pics here I have selected 'Export' and chosen to export as an .eps file which is the preferred format for V-Carve Pro. Pic 19&20

Please note that if you are exporting or saving a trace from corel to some formats such as .dxf, when you open the .dxf file in your other program the graphic may be all messed up. This is because your other program needs more nodes than the minimum which you used in your trace, in order to draw your intended curves.
Simply re-open in corel, and using 'Right-Click' along your long curved vectors, add in more nodes. You don't have to do anything with the nodes, simply run around and add some in. Then re-save or re-export the .dxf with the extra nodes.
It is because of things like this that I always not only save or export in my intended useage format, but I also save as a Corel Draw file '.cdr' aswell.....just in case.

I hope this helps someone. There may be better and/or quicker ways to hand trace, but this is how I do it and I like it. I don't like drawing curves directly and fiddling about with them, I find this easier. Im really sorry that the video didn't work , and for the crazy long post.

Does this make me a Corel Draw consultant....that'll be $3000 please!

Is there any free programs that do a better job than corel. If so what is the name of the program and what steps do I take to achieve the outline.Thanks

Not that I know of. The free programs that I know of like Inkscape, and Corel PowerTrace (Not free), all are automatic raster to vector conversions. The automatic conversions are not nearly as good as doing it by hand.

[becikeja]

Wow lots of great 2D stuff, just about everything. What about sharing some 3D files. Here is a nautilus I created using BobCad that I thought I would share. Does anyone have other 3D art created that could be used in BobCad. ALso wondering if anyone has experience with BobArt in 3D. I have been considering it, but not sold yet. Seems alot of people on this site prefer V-carve not sure why. Thoughts?? 3D samples?

[dempsey438]

Hey Guy's,
Thought I would throw a few files in.
How many are Brethren out there ????
Later,
Johnny

[myxpykalix]

For some 3d parts i us lightwave modeler. Only because i was a beta tester for it in 1990 and use an older version. The newer versions tend to get bloated like photoshop to the point where you are on gadget overload. Then you have to use something else to get your cutting file.

[thkoutsidthebox]

Also wondering if anyone has experience with BobArt in 3D. I have been considering it, but not sold yet. Seems alot of people on this site prefer V-carve not sure why. Thoughts?? 3D samples?

I think V-Carve Pro is simply used and proven. I looked at BobArt but couldn't see any users around the internet to get comments from. Its more expensive than VCP, and in my book, too expensive to invest in without knowing more about it. I was afraid to download the free trial because of the stories of BobCad sales people stalking me for months after!! I wonder can it do 2.5D relief work aswell as V-Carving work? If it can, then it would be similar to VCP and Cut3D in one package, possibly even sneaking up towards ArtCam, which would make it worth the money.....

[Jerry Dots]

I thought I would pass along how good Dupont Corian and other look alikes work for engraving and the like...signs plaques(spelling?). Woodworking tools will cut it just fine but the stuff is tough. You can tap threads in it just like metal. Corian is hi-dollar stuff like $40 a sq ft. I get mine from a cabinet shop for cheap. I use sink and lavatory cutouts. It comes from 1/8" to 1/2" thick...maybe more.

I need a DXF of a sand dollar and a starfish.
I am making a wind chime for my grand-daughter's 21 st birthday. I will use Corian for all parts. The sand dollar and starfish will be for the sail. I have a dolphin already cut to grace the top.
Jerry

[RayinNH]

I found a starfish, I've never used it, so you may need to clean it up or edit it for your project. Hope it works for you.

[Shawn Bierworth]

Image taken from M/C. Surfaced design of casting I have made. Print was machined in machinable wax and used in sand mold. Poured in aluminum. 9" X 11".

[Salty72]

how hot do you need to get the aluminium, so it can be poured into a mold

[planekrazie]

Looks Good. I would like to learn aluminum casting someday when I get some time.
Steve

[Shawn Bierworth]

Pouring temp varies a tad based on alloy content, but generally it is around 1,200 to 1,400 F. I do quite a bit of custom hitch plugs for people and companies for advertising. Here is a sample. I use the same procedure, design and machine print in machinable wax and use print for sand casting.

[Jerry Dots]

Ray the starfish looks good. I have not cut it yet. Still cleaning it. I wish I could find a sand dollar too.

[Revtech]

Like I said I hate to ask but can someone run this pict through their Vcarve program or something to help me get it carved! I found this in an old mag. while looking for a pict for a friend who just loves the Dr Who show. I was looking to just do the Tardis but when I saw this I knew I had to do if for him! Here it is and I have attached a zip file with several versions of the pict. Including several at reduced number of colors. I have also included a sample of what I get when I try. I'm trying to get as much detail as possible.

http://www.revteck.com/drwhopict.zip


The other question I have if possible. When I import the bmp into Artcam I can never seem to get the whole thing. If you look at the sample you will see what it looks like when I import it. I have made sure that I have a large enough work area. It does not matter what size I make the project I only get a portion of the pict. The original size is some thing like 7.66 by 5.38 inches and the project size I used has varied from the exact size to 50 by 50 inches. It's always the same I'm missing about 1/3 of the pict.

Thank you to who ever tries to help!

Also there was a person looking for the Caduceus (Snake and staff) for the medical profession. Here is one I put together from a picture at Istock photo
It carves awesome.

[thkoutsidthebox]

I'd love to help Rev, but just glancing at your post, it'd take me about a week to trace that pic with any detail!! But if you need moral support, just ask.....

[jfc11]

see if this helps...rev.
Jim

[Revtech]

No problem I just thought it could be ran through Vcarve and Wa La there it is! LOL! I guess if it was easy as they advertise everyone would own a copy. I will try to work through it. I've had some luck changing the original in different ways them converting it. But there always seems to be a section or two that don't show up. I've even thought about carving it in different segments. It seems like I can get the different parts to work just not at the same time! LOL!

Hey has anyone carved the caduceus yet? It's really a nice piece. I purchased the vector clip art from Istock and then spent a few hours making it to work. This is all just a learning experience! Trying to find out what works and what doesn’t.

Thanks for the effort all! I'll just keep plugging away at it.