587,072 active members*
3,124 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    43

    Milling Dollhouse Cladboard

    I have been asked by my wife to produce some wall material for her dollhouse. It is going to be made from 3/8 MDF with horizontal milled grooves to look like wood siding. The question is do I make multiple passes with a small cutter OR adjust the angle of the router in the gantry? A 5 or 10 degree tilt will allow each "board" to be milled in one pass with a larger bit.

    I am new to this. My table is ready to go but I am waiting on the controller and stepper motors from CNCResource.

    SpookyDad

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    746
    If you are going to make one entire wall of siding vs. one board at a time, I would tilt the router. If the cut is too much for your router to handle with a larger cutter in one pass, make multiple passes bringing the router down a little more each time.
    If it's not nailed down, it's mine.
    If I can pry it loose, it's not nailed down.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    727
    SpookyDad,

    It is going to be made from 3/8 MDF
    What source are you using for the 3/8" MDF? Lowe's only seems to carry 3/4". Home Depot has 3/4" & 1/2" for sure. I think HD also carries 1/4" in the smaller 2' x 4' panels. I don't remember seeing any 3/8" MDF, though.

    Any pics of your wife's dollhouse(s)?

    HayTay
    HayTay

    Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    43

    Source for 3/8" MDF

    You are not going to find 3/8" MDF at your traditional retail outlets. I found a wholesaler, Dixie Plywood, here in Houston that carries it. You are going to have to find a cabinetmaker's supply outlet. It is available, you just have to look a little harder.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    43

    Milling Dollhouse cladboard

    I am making full walls, not individual planks. Since it is 1/12 scale, the amount of material removed for each "plank" is fairly small. So a single pass should suffice. I am using a Porter Cable 1.5 HP router.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    170
    I recall seeing router bits designed just for the project you have in mind. There are several companies that offer router bits for Dollhouse components, the correct profile bit would eliminate the “tilting” of the router. Check the web, I'm sure you could find some.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    72
    SpookyDad,

    I don't see any way that a special cutter could work. I make PCD cutting tools for the metal working industry and looked at this option (see below).

    IMO, You have a few options.

    1) Tilt the router.
    2) Tilt the material being machined (adjusting depth of cut for each "step over" would be needed).
    3) If you use a standard router table (non-cnc) with cut side of material down you can make a aux. table at a slight angle and use a dado cutting bit.
    4) Setup a dado blade in a table saw (or radial arm saw) and tip the dado blade at an angle. (This is the option that I used for making house siding on a model railroad project in 1:24 scale). You can even make a jig (as I did) to simplify the "step over" for each simulated board.

    Hope this helps.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    746
    You could have a custom planer blade made with the profile and run the wood thru the planer.

    Just another excuse to by another tool.
    If it's not nailed down, it's mine.
    If I can pry it loose, it's not nailed down.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    727
    Spooky -
    Source for 3/8" MDF
    You are going to have to find a cabinetmaker's supply outlet.
    Thanks for the sourcing info. Now I know to look elsewhere locally.

    HayTay
    HayTay

    Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    170
    My mistake, I recall seeing router bits designed for this project. They were for use in a table-mounted router, or shaper. Anyway, they are available.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    40
    You could make it like a cove siding. cut a straight line evenly spaced 1/8" deep x 1/4" wide, and then use a small cove cutter (1/4") run down the edge of the cut already made to form the slope and leave the face flat .

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    72
    I thought of one additional option. You can also make an aux. base for your router and use a dado bit and edge guide attachment.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Woodhaven makes a tilting plate for a router table. Perhaps you could adapt it to your cnc.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •