Thank you Eric
Yes I did!
Not at all!
It's all GREEK to me!
It's exactly what I was looking for!
Thank you Eric
Little known fact about english threads:
The screw number, #10 for instance, tells you the major diameter, with the equation: .060+10*.013=.190"
so #8 is .060+8*.013=.164"
a #0 is therefore .060" major diameter,
and so on.
Screw trivia! ha ha
Mike Visit my projects blog at: http://mikeeverman.com/
http://www.bell-evermannews.com/ http://www.bell-everman.com
Screw trivia! LOL
29 years ago, I was trying to find in a book a way to figure that out, and couldn't find anything on it.
I asked an old timer (true machinist) and that is the way he said he did it. Been using that method ever since............ or just looking it up in the BOOK (Machinery's hand book).
Walking is highly over-rated
I have 4 new Dumpster nuts. 3 are 1/2-10 5 start with black oxide leadscrews and the fourth is a 1/2-10 2 start plain steel leadscrew.
The plain finish glides right through like ice, and black oxide leadscrews won't move even when liberally coated with superlube. I'm using 665 in-oz steppers and they can't turn the black oxide coated rods.
As an experiment I loosened up the pillowblocks to the point they exerted no tension of the rod and it still won't move (the only things connected is the motor and the nut). I'm tending to think it is the black oxide coating at this point and that I may have to get another set of plain steel screws.
Any suggestions would be most welcome.
If you cut it to small you can always nail another piece on the end, but if you cut it to big... then what the hell you gonna do?
Steven
I have just acquired the same 5-start 1/2-10 acme screws with black oxide from McMaste-Carr, and 3-nuts from DumpsterCNC!
Mine move freely, so I suspect the NUTS were machined too tight!
Contact the Dumpster guy, or get another set of nuts st they are only $15 each
Eric
If anyone has the same issues here is Tim's suggestion (which worked perfectly for me)
They shouldn't be too tight, only snug. You should be able to turn them with a finger and thumb. Sometimes even the screws I recommend are a little tight due to the manufacturers tolerances. I have to keep them a little snug to remove the backlash. We've had good luck when I suggest to take the end of the screw and file 3 or 4 notches around the last 2-3 threads and force it through the back of the leadnut, only under the flange area, basically working as a custom tap, it usually doesn't take much.
If you cut it to small you can always nail another piece on the end, but if you cut it to big... then what the hell you gonna do?
Steven
hi to all
i'm glad to join you in this forum
Does anyone know the specifications on the Genie Screw Drive garage door opener screw? I have a source for the screws and if I can find a matching anti-backlash nut I think I might try them out. The goal is a low cost performance increase over my 13 TPI single start all thread screw.
Based on my physical inspection of the genie part I think the specs are:
- 1/2" OD
- 3 starts
- 8 Threads Per Inch (TPI)
But I am not sure if it is an ACME thread or some other (Worm maybe).
I have called Genie, but I have not yet been able to get any technical data. Has anyone else looked into this?
Thanks!
-Dave P.
Heelo, is there anyone who can tell me the correct steps that I should use for my lead screws? I am useing acme 10-2 3/8" lead screws what I want to know is should I use 1/8,1/4 1/2 or full steps?
Thank you.
Hello, is there anyone who can tell me the correct steps that I should use for my lead screws? I am useing acme 10-2 3/8" lead screws what I want to know is should I use 1/8,1/4 1/2 or full steps?
Thank you.
The guys at Helix Linear are pretty good with thread and lead screws. Helix Linear Technologies
You wouldn't be working for Helix Linear by any chance, would you?