[zoeper]

I was busy with a strip and rebuild of a slant bed turning center and got as far as removing the turret. Time is catching up fast and i would have to make money on it or go bust. The main reason for the strip was that i suspect the lubricant on the z axis is inadequit as the slide always seem dry(apart from coolant). Is there any shortcuts for unblocking the lube channels in the castings?? I was thinking maybe high pressure or something that can dissolve/soften the blockages.

I have rebuilt an old capstan before and there all the channels was clogged up solid(i suspect someting similar here)

My concerns are that if i manage to force the blockage out it would still be trapped under the saddle where it would only cause another blockage.

Does anyone here know the correct procedure for doing the geometrical correction on a slant bed lathe???

Machine is a Victor TNS2 with fanuc 10T 1985 model and 10" power chuck

[zoeper]

Also on the above machine,
Does anyone know if you can have a worn out hydraulic chuck restored to reasonable tolerances?
Chuck in question is a Kitagawa 10" power chuck.

[Al_The_Man]

Replace all the lube metering devices where possible, they are placed at the end of a lube line, over time the lube line becomes gelled and the metering devices are ineffective, Bijur sell them and there are also knock-offs I believe.
The metering devices have a metering number on them, they look like a small 1/8th bpt fittings.
Al.

[zoeper]

Thanx Al,

I am going to change all the metering devices, but i am more concerned with what goes on under the saddle and in the oil passages inside the castings. My metering devices sits on a central manifold from where they split off to the various lube points. (i have tubing on either side of them)

do you know if the oil pumps on those old machines were cyclic or continuous feed?

Do they only run while there is movement, or while the machine is idle also?

[Al_The_Man]

It depends on the pump fitted and how the OEM integrated it, most 'simple' pumps have a timing motor that while power is applied, will cycle on a predetermined schedule, and the pump is sometimes only powered when either the e-stop is out or in run.
There are also pumps that continuously cycle when power is applied, you would have to determine your type from model or observation.
It should be taken off and drained and completely cleaned anyway.
Al.

[zoeper]

Removing pump for cleaning and inspection.
I am going to connect the pump to one lube point at a time while bypassing the meter unit to try and determine if it is clear. I should be able to see oil seeping out with the wipers removed.

[DareBee]

Kerosene is my recomended flushing fluid. It is thin, will clean the lines and still retains a bit of lubricity itself so as not to be detrimental to the system/machine (Diesal fuel would be about the same as well).
As well if you need; companies like Trico make timed cycle lube pumps starting as low as $400.

[zoeper]

I removed and stripped the pump this morning to find about 10mm of sediment(of all sorts inc metal chips) in the bottom. Also found that the plunger spring was broken in half and the effective stoke would have been reduced drastically.
I'm having a new spring made up as we speak. Wonder what horors i will uncover next...

[CypherNinja]

Just thinking along the lines that DareBee mentioned.....

If you could find a little BioDiesel somewhere, that might be a great solution if you could let it soak a overnight. Its got pretty much all the same properties as regular diesel, but its also a strong detergent. (The first time you run it in a vehicle you have to change the fuel filter because it gives the fuel system an enema. )

[wizard]

You have already recieved good advice from a couple of people here. Kerosene is the common solvent to use here. You could also use one of he citrus based solvents. Consideirng what you found in the sump of the pump I'd reccomend replacemnt of all compnents you can't easily clean and rebuild. Flow controls as mentioned, lub lines that are restricted and not cleaning well and manifolds.

Obviously cleaning the casting ports is a requirement. Take note of what you find in those ports though, it is not uncommon to find whicking materials in there. In any event you want to clean SCRUB the ports out using pipe cleaners and small stainless steel brushes. Often the distribution channels on the ways or saddles witll be plugged up to, though that is usually pretty obvious. In the end things should be spotless before reassembly. Well except for verification that lube oil is actually purged through the system and the metering units are working correctly.

Dave