586,047 active members*
3,800 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
Page 1 of 2 12
Results 1 to 20 of 30
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198

    Once more I do a new all steel build..

    Once again I venture into a scratch build for a machine. And again I'm going for an all steel build.
    I have already done alot on it, and finihsed a machine stand, the majority of the bed is made, and the X linear rails have been trial mounted, (not yet cut to correct length). The machine will be all ballscrews, and liniear rails. I have been lucky to find all my rails at a low low low cost, so this build will be very nice, at an affordable price even.

    The machine will have a cutting area of 1200x1500mm, haven't quite decided on the Z axis yet, but I'm thinking of 125-150mm Z clearance.

    I have already taken some pictures from the progress so far, so here's a few to wet your appetites.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails kopi 2013-08-14 13.21.28.jpg   kopi 2013-12-07 12.33.33.jpg   kopi 2014-01-25 13.51.44.jpg   kopi 2014-01-25 15.18.41.jpg  

    kopi 2014-01-25 15.50.17.jpg   kopi 2014-01-26 18.46.02.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Machine #3? Are you going to keep this one?

    You're not going to cut those rails shorter, are you? Make it longer!
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198
    Actually machine #4, and yes, I plan on keeping this one. Thus the all ballscrew setup this time.

    And no, I'm sorry Ger, I'm not making it longer.. The machine is welded, so no extending the machine. Plus I would need to make another machine stand then. Not this time. I would like to be able to use my garage for other things than only the CNC.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    16
    finally i found somebody using I-beam on his build

    could you check mine and tell me what do you think about the rigidity of this , should i support it more or it's good enough like this

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc-wo...m-x-190cm.html

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198
    It's actually not I-beams I'm using. It's HEB beams. They are the same height as they are wide, which makes for excellent placement of ballscrews in the sides.

    I'll have a look at yours at a later time, and give you a couple of words at that time.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198
    Sorry for the lack of updates, but I have been a little preoccupied on other things.

    But alot has happened since my last post.

    As you can see, I have finished my uprights, the gantry beam itself is finished, and my Y wagon is almost done.
    For now, it's a seriously stiff setup, which I'm very happy about.

    Enjoy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    16
    like the way you connect y with x

    why you had to add flat steel under the guide rail on the Z and also on the x and you did't do that on the y

    did you use dial test indicator to align the guide rail , and did you use Torque wrench to set the bolts to the right torque or how it's being done on the hobby machine

    i'm asking because i was reading a guide how to setup the guide rail and i saw this things on it

    i attached the pdf for the setup guide

    Thank you.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rpg_installation_1109.pdf  

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198
    For now this is just a test setup, nothing has been tightened yet.

    The reason for the extra steel on the Z axis, is to make room for the Ballnut.

    On the Y axis this is not a problem, as the ballscrew sits on top of the Gantry, so it is not going to take up space on the front of the gantry.
    For now, I have not done any measuring of the rails to set them up correctly, this will be done at a later time, preferably when I have painted the machine.

    I haven't machined the parts, so I'm just going by eye on this, and will shim the rails accordingly to make sure they lay flat to eachother.

    And on the X, there's no flat steel under the rails. They sit directly on the HEB beams.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    16
    awesome

    which gauges you will use

    torque wrench

    dial indicator

    dial test indicator

    caliper


    and Digital or Dial or normal is better and you will go for good brand like mitutoyo or just any Chinese cheap one

    Thank you

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198
    All I have at the moment is a straight edge and a gauge dial on a magnetic base.

    I will use the straight edge and the dial to align the first rail to the machine surface, and the dial only to aling the secon rail to the other rail.
    I don't have abundent amounts of cash for tools, even though I would love to be able to buy all that I need when I need it.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    16
    so if i have the money to go for good brand i should go for it , or doesn't worth it

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198
    The right tools is always good to own.
    But sometimes you can have too many tools for the job. Most of the time, the simplest tools does the work perfectly...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    141
    those are some serious rails !!! where did you get them ? i bet they cost a packet !!

    what about levels on the beams ? did the beams not flex with just the one side being welded ? i would have thought it would need to be ground or some self leveling epoxy ?
    looking really solid !

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198
    The rails were not all that expensive.
    The entire rail package for the machine is bought second hand. Total price of around $500.

    The beams them selves, are almost dead on straight across the machine, but ofcourse, they are not perfect.
    I would have loved to be able to have them surface milled, but the price on that alone will cost me a bundle here in Denmark. So I'm opting to levelling them out with shims instead.
    I had thought of trying to do some self levelling something something, but I haven't found the right medium to do so yet. So for now I'm going to stick to my original idea of shimming the rails.

    And yes, it's sold, very solid..

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198

    Re: Once more I do a new all steel build..

    A bit of work done this weekend.
    Got my electronics cabinet finished, and test mounted to the machine, prior to painting..
    Looks good I think. In the vacant space to the left of the cabinet, a 24L stainless steel canister will be mounted, to house the coolant for my watercooled spindle.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2014-03-22 11.29.19.jpg  

  16. #16

    Re: Once more I do a new all steel build..

    Looking good so far!
    I like your SS enclosure!
    Widgit

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198

    Re: Once more I do a new all steel build..

    It's not a SS enclosure...

    It's actually ordinary mild steel its made from. Hence the need to paint it.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198

    Re: Once more I do a new all steel build..

    More parts arriving.. Today I got the belts and pulleys and the taper lock bushings for them. HTD5 all around, and taper lock bushings all around also... Great quality at an affordable price. Love it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2014-04-10 14.27.59.jpg   2014-04-10 14.30.05.jpg  

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    198

    Re: Once more I do a new all steel build..

    A lot has happened since last I posted in this thread.

    The machine now has a new color, and the color is white.
    Almost the entire machine is assembled now, and I have actually started pulling wires around on the machine.

    I'm still a couple of weeks from first movement, but I'm getting there. Just need to find a bit more shielded cable for my spindle, then everything should be ready to go.

    Have done a complete kitchen table test of the electronics, and everything works as it should, so I'm almost ready... I'm looking forward to finishing this machine so I can get to cutting soon.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    8082

    Re: Once more I do a new all steel build..

    That is a very nice looking, and sturdy, machine build.. You will get lots of enjoyment making things with it.
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

Page 1 of 2 12

Similar Threads

  1. Keith's Steel Build, 5' x 3' x 1.5'
    By 2fast4u66 in forum CNC Wood Router Project Log
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 01-19-2017, 03:05 PM
  2. My first build Steel & Ali
    By Action-KAT in forum DIY CNC Router Table Machines
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 12-07-2012, 06:43 PM
  3. 10K RPM Steel Flywheel Build
    By magudaman in forum MetalWork Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-29-2012, 10:48 PM
  4. Mint's Build Aluminum/Steel Build thread.
    By FreshMint in forum Maintenance DIY Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-31-2011, 04:18 AM
  5. 2nd Build - Steel and Al 3'x5'
    By Woodbutcher-59 in forum CNC Wood Router Project Log
    Replies: 47
    Last Post: 10-28-2011, 10:20 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •